Climbing Jade Mountain in one Day (Yushan) 外國人單攻玉山

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First off I would like to warn everyone that the road from Xinyi to Yushan is blocked off from 6:30pm-6:30am for rock fall control. We had to drive around Alishan which added 4 hours of driving to our trip.
首先我要提醒大家，由於石頭掉落，從信義到玉山的道路從早上六點半到六點半被封鎖。我們不得不在阿里山周圍另外駕車四個小時。

That being said, let me tell you about our one day hike of the tallest mountain in Taiwan and East Asia (okay, East Asia is debatable, but it sounds better).
I know that I am not the first person to have climbed Jade Mountain in a day, but it seems like no one has blogged about it in English in a while. The last blog I found about hiking it in one day is from 2012, so I would like to give everyone some more recent info about the hike. I will also walk you through our experience with help with meticulous time notes compiled by my climbing partner.
說到這裡，讓我告訴你我們有一天在台灣和東亞最高的山上徒步旅行。好吧，東亞的領域是有爭議的，但聽起來不錯。
我知道我不是第一個單攻爬上玉山的人，但是沒有什麽人會用英語寫這樣的博客。我發現的最後一個單攻博客是從2012年，所以我想給大家最新信息。我也會通過我的攀登合作夥伴編寫的細緻筆記，幫助您了解我們的經驗。

Applying for permits 申請許可證:
This is perhaps the most difficult part of hiking Jade Mountain. In Taiwan, mountain and park permits are required to limit fatalities and help with rescue on the mountain. Originally we planned to do a two day hike and stay at Paiyun Lodge, but we realized we didn’t have time to wait; my climbing partner is going to get a Master’s degree in America at the beginning of next year, and Jade Mountain is closed for normal hikers from January to March. Also, I wanted to take as few days off from work as possible, so we opted for the one day hike, which is easier to get approved for if you meet the qualifications.
這也許這是爬玉山最難的部分。本來我們打算做兩天的爬行，在排雲山莊過夜，但是我們意識到我們沒有時間等待。我的攀岩夥伴將在明年初在美國開始讀研究所，1月至3月期間，玉山將關閉山。另外，我想盡可能地少休息幾天，所以我們選擇了一天的徒步旅行，如果你符合條件，那麼這個旅行更容易獲得批准。

The mountain permit  and park entry permit can both be applied for online. Some special requirements for the day hike though are that you must have experience climbing mountains above 3000 meters in the past 5 years. All you have to do is upload a picture of yourself on top of a mountain above 3000 meters and tell them which mountain it was. Also, you must give the park personal information such as name, age, and ID or passport number.
入山證和入園證都可以在線上申請。單攻特別要求過去5年3000米以上的爬山經驗。所有你需要做的就是傳一張你自己在3000米以上的山頂照片，告訴他們是哪一座山。此外，您必須提供個人信息，姓名，年齡，身份證或護照號碼。

As with Paiyun Lodge, the day hike also requires a lottery process, but there are a lot less people who apply for it, so getting a spot is easier. We originally planned for Dec. 19th, but later the Jade Mountain Park service called us and told us that spots had opened up on the 18th, so we switched.
跟排雲山莊一樣，白天的徒步旅行也需要抽排，但是申請的人少得多，所以得到一個位子比較容易。我們原本計劃在十九號，但後來玉山公園的服務員給我們打電話，告訴我們十八號也可，所以我們換了。

Preparation 準備:
I had brought some my climbing gear from America, such as hiking boots, wool socks, hat, fleece pants, and gloves. I didn’t have any polyester long underwear, which I regretted later. My main food for the trip was 6 chocolate Costco muffins, which was too much. I only ate 2 ½. I also brought 3000 cc of water, although this may have been excessive as well because I’m sure you can fill up water at Paiyun lodge. 
我帶了一些從美國來的登山裝備，如登山靴，羊毛襪，帽子，羊毛褲和手套。我沒有任何聚酯長內衣，因此後來我感到後悔。我此行的主要食物是6個巧克力Costco碼分，太多了。我只吃了2½。我也帶了3000 CC的水，雖然這也可能是過度的，因為我相信你可以在排雲山莊加滿水。

Also, because Jade Mountain had snowed the week before we left, we rented some crampons, not because we needed them but because we feared the park service would reject our climb if we didn’t have them (we ended up not needing them).
另外，因為我們離開前一個星期玉山下了雪，所以我們租了一些冰爪，不是因為我們需要它，而是因為我們擔心如果我們沒有它們（我們后來不需要它們），公園服務會拒絕我們的攀登。


The Adventure 冒險:

Day 0: Dec. 17th, 2017
12:40 Met at Nangang Station and departed 南港車站集合，出發
15:05 Exited off the Mingjian Interchange 從名間交流道下來

At this time we figured there was time in the schedule for a quick trip to Sun Moon Lake. We drove to the lakeside and took some pictures and that was about it because it was super cold outside.
在這個時候，我們發現在日程安排中有時間來到日月潭。我們開車去湖邊拍了一些照片，因為外面太冷了就走了。

18:00 Arrived at Go Bier Hostel 到GO比爾民宿

Once we drove about the Xinyi there was super thick fog everywhere. Our hostel was in the middle of some fields on top of a mountain. Eventually we had to ask one of the locals to show us where it was. To get to the hostel we had to drive through some farmland on bumpy roads. Once we got there, our hostess told us that the road to Jade Mountain was going to close at 6:30 for rock fall control. If we left then, we would get no sleep and arrive too early to hike the mountain (Our permit was only for the 18th). If we left after 6:30, we would get there too late, because if you arrive later than 10:00 AM to Paiyun Lodge, they will not let you press on to the main peak.
我們開車到信義，到處都是超濃霧。我們的旅館在山頂的一些田地中間。最終，我們不得不請一位當地人向我們展示它在哪裡。要到旅館，我們不得不在崎嶇的道路上開車經過一些農田。一旦我們到了那裡，我們的老闆娘告訴我們，去玉山的路將在六點半封閉，進行石頭掉落控制。如果我們離開了，我們就不會睡覺，到達山頂就太早了（我們的許可證只有十八號）。如果我們在六點半之後離開，我們會遲到，因為如果您遲於上午十點抵達排雲山莊，他們不會讓您上去主峰。

This nightly road closing had only started last year with the advent of the Labor Standards Act, because the road crews have less manpower to keep the roads open for longer at night. 
由於勞動基法案的出台，這種每晚的道路封閉只是在去年才開始，因為道路工人的人力較少，以致在夜間保持道路暢通。

At this point our entire trip was in jeopardy. Then the hostel owner’s husband told us that the road to Jade Mountain from Alishan should be open, but there could be thick fog. It would be a three hour car ride, while driving from Xinyi would only have been one hour.
在這一點上，我們整個旅程都處於危險之中。然後老闆娘的丈夫告訴我們，從阿里山去玉山的道路應該是開放的，但是可能會有濃霧。這將是一個三小時的車程，而從信義開車只有一個小時。

18:40 Slept 睡覺
21:00 Woke up 起床
21:10 Departed from the hostel 從民宿出發
22:14 Got on National Highway 3 toward Chiayi上南三高往嘉儀
22:55 Stopped at Family Mart to get drinks and some gas停全家買食物，加油

On the way up from Alishan we were lucky that there was very little fog on our way to the trail head, so we made it safely to the top.
在阿里山的路上我們很幸運因爲在前往途徑的路上幾乎沒有霧，所以我們安然無恙地到了停車場。

Day 1: Dec, 18th, 2017

00:50 Made it to the Tataka parking lot (2610 M, 8562 ft.), parked, ate, broke an iPhone, and made sure we had everything. 抵達塔塔加停車場（2610M）停車，吃東西，破壞手機，整理裝備

As we were about to depart I found myself looking for my cell phone which had disappeared. Then I remembered I left it on the back door latch of our Toyota Wish to use as a light, but it was too late. We had smashed the iPhone with our car door twice. Later, I found that the phone was too expensive to repair. At that time I was very sad because for the long hike my music would be gone.
在我們準備要離開的時候，我在尋找我失踪的手機。然後我想起我把它放在我們豐田汽車的後門閂上。當時把它用作燈，但想起來已經太遲了。我們用我們的車門兩次撞到我的iPhone。後來，我發現手機無法修理因爲太貴。當時我很傷心，因為我登山沒辦法聼音樂。

01:25 Departed 出發
02:05 Made it to the Linzhi Mountain Entrance 麟趾山登山口
02:20 Made it to the top of Linzhi Mountain 麟趾山山頂 （2854）

We made history by being perhaps the only day hikers of Jade Mountain to start of the day by climbing Linzhi Mountain. This added maybe 200 meters to our total climb, but I didn’t add it to the total because I am not sure of the altitude of the Jade Mountain entrance vs the parking lot entrance. It’s not really important. Basically, it was dark, we were first-timers, and we took a right when we should have turned left at the ancient tree. But, we still made it to the Jade Mountain hiking entrance in good time.
我們也許是玉山登麟趾山的唯一單攻者。我們總共多爬了200米，但是我並沒有把它添加到底部，因為我不確定玉門入口和停車場入口的高度。這並不重要。基本上，天黑了，我們是新手，我們應該在神木左轉。但是，我們還是及時到了玉山登山門口。

02:40 Made it to the Tataka saddle / Jade Mountain entrance 塔塔加鞍部登山口 (2610 M, 8562 ft.)
03:21 Menglu Pavillion 1.7K (1  mile) 孟祿亭 1.7K

I took a wizz here. It was quite a smelly experience. I think I understand now why my climbing partner didn’t go to the bathroom pretty much the whole day.
我在這裡上厠所。這是一個非常臭的經驗。我想我現在明白了為什麼我的攀登夥伴幾乎整天沒有去洗手間。

At this point, I was pretty beat. My climbing partner was in much better shape than me and she was pushing at a pace I couldn’t keep up with, which is why I went in front. 
在這一點上，我非常棒。我的攀登夥伴比我的身材好得多，而且她的速度在加快，我無法跟上，這就是為什麼我走在前面。

03:48 Jade Mountain Front Peak Trail Entrance 2.7K (1.6 miles) 玉山前峰登山口 2.7K
06:15 8K (5 miles)

At about 8 kilometers (5 miles), it was bright enough outside for me to turn off my headlamp and take a picture of the sea of clouds below.
​大概在8公里，天亮了，我把頭燈關掉和照相雲海。

We suddenly realized we were in the middle of a beautiful nature scene.
​我們突然發現我們在很美的風景裏面。

A small variety of bamboo grows everywhere here (sorry for the blur, it was dark).
​小的竹子在這邊到處都是。

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The path the Paiyun seemed close. 去排雲山莊好像很進。

06:45 Made it to Paiyun Lodge (3402M, 11,161 ft) 8.5K (5.2 miles), delivered our park permits to the administration, rested 排雲山莊 (3402) 8.5K, 繳交入園證給管理員，大休

The first glorious sight of Paiyun Lodge. 第一次看見排雲山莊。

I noticed they had breakfast at the lodge for the guests there. As this blog is about the day trip and not the lodge stay, I have no further information. I sat on a stool here and slept for about 10 minutes. I could have slept for the whole day, but we had a mountain to climb.
我注意到他們在旅舍為那裡的客人吃早餐。由於這個博客是關於一日遊而不是旅館，我沒有進一步的信息。我在這邊睡了一下。

We were told we could leave some bags at the lodge before our ascent to the top, so I gladly unpacked our heavy crampons that we had prepared in case there was going to be snow (there were only tiny patches of snow on the mountain).
我們被告知，在我們爬上山頂之前，我們可能會在旅館裡留下一些袋子，所以我很高興地把我們準備好的重冰爪打包，以防下雪（山上只有一些小塊積雪）。

I guess collecting rainwater is important at Paiyun Lodge. 在​排雲山莊積水好像很重要。

The smelly bathrooms at the lodge. 排雲山莊很臭的洗手間。

07:15 Departed from Paiyun Lodge 從排雲山莊出發
07:58 Round Peak Fork 圓峰交叉口

We could see the top of Jade Mountain laughing at us from afar. 玉山主峰遠遠地似乎諷刺我們。

At around 8:30, the sun peaked over the ridge, and from then on it was a hot, hot hike.
大概早上8：30日出，以後的行程非常熱。

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At about the same time, we has hiked above the tree line. 大概這個時候我們超越森林綫。

This is just to give you an idea of how steep  the trail was toward the top. The climb got steeper and steeper on the 2.4 KM (1.5 miles) from Paiyun Lodge to the top, which is a very short distance to climb 550 meters (nearly 2000 feet).
​讓您知道到上面步道有多斗。Paiyun Lodge在2.4公里的距離內，總高度達550米，爬坡陡峭而陡峭。

The higher we climbed, the stepper it got, and we began to see chains along the trail. 
我麽越爬越斗，然後開始看到鏈子。
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​09:12  Rock Cages 鐵龍

Before the final run to the very top, there is a short section of cages to protect from rock falls along the side of the mountain. Everyone stopped here for photos and seemed content on resting here for a while.
到山頂之前有鐵龍，目的是防止石頭掉落。大家在這邊很開心的拍照，也似乎不想繼續爬上去。

At the end toward the main peak the trail almost went vertical, and some rock scrambling was required. Also, the higher up we got the stronger the winds were. I was feeling a bit queasy actually about halfway up from Paiyun Lodge, but I just took my time and near the top as we started scrambling I felt a lot better. We passed many people that had hiked the mountain from Paiyun Village early that morning, many that seemed to be Japanese tourists. One group told me that it would have been easy for me to stay in the Lodge because I’m a foreigner, but I didn’t have 3 other foreigners to go with me, so I couldn’t have done that.
 在主峰的盡頭，這條小路幾乎垂直，需要一些亂石。另外，越高，風越強。 Paiyun Lodge的中途，我感覺有些不舒服，但是我只是把時間花在接近頂端，因為我們開始爭先恐後地感覺好多了。當天早上，我們經過許多從排雲村上山的人，有不少似乎是日本遊客。有一個小組告訴我，因為我是一個外國人，所以我留在旅館很容易，但是我沒有其他三個外國人和我一起去，所以我不能這樣做。

​09:22 Main Peak – North Peak fork主北岔路

​​After the cages, you come directly to the Main Peak – North Peak fork. Here, known literally as the wind hole （風口）, the wind was the strongest. The wind was blowing hard enough to blow your hat and socks off.
鐵龍後，主北岔路就到了，這邊風口的風非常非常大，簡直像可以把你的帽子跟襪子吹走。

​Taking a short rest right before the summit.
​登山頂前的小休息。

There was some rock scrambling involved.
爬山一定有涉及到小爬岩。

A fall here could kill you. 這邊率倒會死。

Almost there! 差一點就到頂！

09:49 Made it to Yushan Main Peak! (3952 M, 12,965 ft) 10.9 K (6.7 miles) 玉山主峰 （3952）10.9K 拍照

On the top we found another couple holding the ROC flag up, and we helped them take some pictures. I brought my company’s flag up too, but all the pictures turned out pretty terrible because it was so windy. The weather was perfect at the top and coming down, so we were lucky in that regard.
​在最上方，我們發現另一對夫婦拿著中華民國國旗，我們幫助他們拍了一些照片。我也把公司的標誌帶上去了，但所有的圖片都非常可怕，因為風很大。天氣是完美的頂部和下降，所以我們在這方面很幸運。

Me attempting to take a picture of our company flag.
​試著拍公司的旗子。

View of Yushan West Peak. 玉山西峰。

View of Yushan North Peak. The Jade Mountain weather station lays on top of it. I think the view of Jade Mountain is best seen from this peak. Next time I think I would want to climb this one instead of the main peak.
玉山北峰。從那邊看到玉山，風景最好。很羡慕去爬那邊的人。下次再去。

Yushan East Peak. Dashuikushan in the background. 玉山東峰。大水窟山在後方。

View to the southeast.
往東南的風景。

View of Yushan Round Peak on the bottom and South Peak on the top.
上方為玉山南峰，下方為玉山圓峰。

View of Nanshan (Yushan south peak) through the clouds.
看見南山和玉山南峰在雲海裏面。

The best picture of me and my climbing partner at the top.
​我們拍最好看的照片。

​​10:02 Journey back回程

Coming up and down the top was the steepest part. My climbing partner said that most of the deaths on Jade Mountain have occurred here. I believe that.
上下是最陡峭的部分。我的攀岩人，玉山大部分的死亡都發生在這裡。

Coming back down the cages.
​從籠子裏面下來。

View coming down. 下來的風景。

11:15 Paiyun Lodge排雲山莊

This stretch from Paiyun lodge to the entrance was the longest part of the trip, probably because I didn’t recognize anything, as we hiked up in the dark. I found myself hallucinating, and every half kilometer seemed like a lifetime. I felt like I had lost control of my body and was watching myself walk down the trail. This was probably due to lack of sleep and fatigue, as well as the five blisters festering on my feet (I think it’s time for a new pair of hiking boots).
排雲山口到入口處的這段路程是這次旅行中最長的一段，可能是因為我們在黑暗中抬起頭來，什麼都不認識。我發現自己產生了幻覺，每半公里似乎都是一生。我感覺自己已經失去了對自己身體的控制，並且正在註視著自己走過的路。這可能是由於缺乏睡眠和疲勞，以及我腳上的五個水泡（我認為是時候換一雙新的登山鞋了）

Even in my state of hallucination, I managed to get some photos of the nice ancient forest and mountain scenery.
雖熱我快瘋掉，我還是有拍到神木的照片。

Views similar to that of a Chinese painting. 像山水畫的風景。

Last view of the ancient forest. 神木森林最後的照片。

View of the valley right before the trail entrance. 我們來到登山口的最後山谷之照。

​14:42 Tataka saddle entrance塔塔加鞍部登山口

When we reached the trail entrance, there were shuttles waiting for the hikers. At 100 NT to go like 1 K back to the parking lot, the price seemed a little steep, but we were exhausted and happily paid. This same shuttle was not available when we started at midnight. 
當我們到達小道入口處時，有班車正在等待遠足者。在100 NT, 才1 K回到停車場，價格似乎有點貴，但我們已經筋疲力盡，愉快的付出這筆錢。當我們在午夜開始的時候，同樣的班車沒有開。

The road down from Jade Mountain to Xinyi was amazing. I felt like it is one of the highest roads in Taiwan, with amazing views of the surrounding mountains. Howver, there are often rock slides, and the speed limit is only 30-40 at most. Much of the road was under construction at the time, and I felt that at any time a section of the road could slide off the mountain.
從玉山到新沂的路是驚人的。我覺得這是台灣最高的道路之一，周圍群山的美景盡收眼底。不過，經常有滑梯，速度限制最多只有30-40。當時大部分道路正在建設中，我感覺到在任何時候都有一段路可以從山上滑下來。

16:25 Made it back to the hostel, prepared our things, showered 回到民宿，整理裝備
17:20 Departed from Taipei 出發回臺北
21:10 Back to Nangang 回到南港

You may ask why we didn't stay an extra night at the hostel. Because I didn't want to take off work again. You may ask why we booked a hostel at all. Simply because my wife and child were there waiting for us.
你可能會問為什麼我們沒有在宿舍多住一晚。因為我不想再脫下工作。你可能會問為什麼我們預定了一個旅館。只因為我的妻子和孩子在那裡等著我們。

Total hiking statistics for our trip 我們此行的總徒步數據:
Total walking distance: 2.1K (1.3 miles) from the south river and Yushan forest trail, + 1.8K (1.1 miles) from Linzhi Mountain to Tataka saddle entrance, 8.5K*2 (5.3 miles*2) from the entrance to Paiyun lodge, 2.4K*2 (1.5 miles*2) Paiyun lodge to Yushan main peaker, for a grand total of 25.7K (16 miles).
Total Elevation gained: Tataka parking lot (2610, 8563 feet) to Yushan Main peak (3952M, 12966 feet) = 1342M (4,403 feet).
Total hiking time: 14:42 - 01:25= 13 hours 17 minutes
Total time driving: 5:20+3:40+1:20+3:50= 14 hours 10 minutes
Total time sleeping in a 48 hour period: 3 hours 30 minutes
總共行走：2.1K 南溪和玉山林道+1.8K麟趾山步道+8.5K*2 登山口到排雲山莊+2.4K*2排雲山莊到玉山主峰=25.7K
總共爬升：玉山主峰（3952）塔塔加停車場（2610）=1342M
總共行走時間：14:42 - 01:25= 13小時17分鐘
總共開車時間：5:20+3:40+1:20+3:50=14小時10分鐘
總共睡覺時間：3小時30分鐘

If this blog hasn’t been as helpful as you need, there are a few forums on climbing Jade Mountain that you can search:
如果這個博客沒有你需要的幫助，那麼你可以搜索幾個關於爬山的論壇：

Forumosa: 
Lonely Planet Forum: 
Trip Advisor Forum: 
General Info: 

Fun Fact 有趣的事實：

After I climbed the mountain, my coworker showed me a photo from when she climbed it a few decades ago:
​爬上山後，我的同事給我看了一張幾十年前的照片：

From 1965 until 1995, a bust of the famous scholar and ROC revolutionary Yu Youren stood on top of Jade Mountain. It was thought that if they placed his bust high enough, it could reach above 4000 meters (however later they found that Jade Mountain was 3 Meters less than this height, making the mountain with his bust only 3997 meters).
從1965年到1995年，著名的學者和中華民國的革命者于右任的半身像站在玉山頂上。有人認為，如果他足夠高，可以達到4000米以上（但是後來他們發現，玉山比這個高度還要低3米，使得他的胸圍只有3997米）。

However, in 1995 a group of environmentalists cut off the bronze head and threw it off the mountain. Later, the park service found the head and put it back, but then in 1996 an unknown someone cut off the head again and it was never seen again. The reason that these original perpetrators did this is they thought that the bust on top of Jade Mountain was disrespecting nature. After the last beheading in 1996, later the Nantou county head placed a smaller rock on top of the mountain instead.
然而，一九九五年，一群環保人士把它從山上拋下。後來，公園服務部門找到了這個頭部，並把它放回去，但是到了1996年，一個不知名的人又再次把頭切斷了，而且再也沒有見過。這些原始肇事者之所以這樣做，是因為他們認為玉山山頂上的雕像是不自然的。在1996年的最後一次斬首之後，南頭縣長後來在山頂放置了一塊較小的石塊。

The ROC government did not prosecute the environmentalist beheadeders and has had no further reaction to this incident. I think most people can respect this action and realize that Jade Mountain should stand as a natural edifice and not a monument to Yu Youren.
中華民國政府並沒有起訴環保人士，也沒有對這件事作出進一步的反應。我想大多數人都會尊重這個行為，認識到玉山應該是一座天然的大廈，而不是余友仁的紀念碑。

Conclusion ​結論:
Climbing Jade Mountain in one day turned out to be much harder than I thought it would be, and it definitely takes a greater fitness level to climb it in one day than two. As much as people like to play down how hard it is, the last 2.4 K, 550 meter climb at 3000+ meters （1.5 mile, 2000 foot climb at 10,000 feet) are a tough test for anyone. But, climbing it in one day gives you more flexibility time wise, is easier to get a spot, and takes less time.
在一天之內攀爬玉山竟然比我想像的要難得多，而且在一天之內肯定需要更高的健身水平才能爬上去。儘管人們喜歡貶低它有多難，但最後2.4千米，550米的爬升高度超過3000米對任何人來說都是一個艱難的考驗。但是，在一天之內攀登它會給你更多的時間，更容易抽到位子，而且花更少的時間。

The best advice I can give is to go to the mountain from Alishan, not Xinyi, no matter how much faster Google Maps tells you it will be. If you want a nicer accommodation than the Dongpu Lodge, you can book a hostel in near Alishan. 
我可以給的最好的建議是從阿里山而不是信義上山，不管Google Maps告訴你的速度會多快。如果您需要比東圃小屋更舒服的住宿，可以預訂阿里山附近的民宿。

Also, one thing that became clear to me while hiking this is that I was climbing it only for pride, because it was the highest mountain. I think I would have enjoyed a lower hike with less people and less work much more. But because I climbed it, be sure to tell the whole world how great I am. Seriously, go shout it from the rooftops.
而且，在徒步旅行時，我清楚地知道一件事，那就是我只是為了驕傲而攀爬，因為那是最高的山峰。我想我會享受更少的人，更少的力氣的步道。但是因為我爬了，所以一定要告訴全世界我有多棒。

Thanks for reading our experience. Please like comment, and share below!
Stay tuned on our social media channels for our next adventure!
​感謝您閱讀我們的經驗。請暗讚，並在下面留言和分享！
請繼續關注我們的社交媒體渠道，來指導我們的下一次冒險！

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