Nangang Old Street (aka Zhongnan Street) is one of the most unnoticed old streets in Taiwan, but here you can find historic buildings, great food, and a lack of crowds. Currently, Nangang is being turned into Taipei's "next Xinyi District" and is the new artistic and cultural heart of Taipei. It is definitely worth a stop on your next trip to Taipei.
Background: Nangang 南港means “South Port” in Chinese. This south port once rested on the southern banks of the Keelung River near what is now the Neihu MRT depot in Nangang District, Taipei. There was a "North Port" on the Keelung River in what is now Xizhi. Nangang Station was built in 1891 as part of the first railway in Taiwan, connecting Keelung to Taipei, making it a prime location for industry. Nangang's old street sprung up near the train station. Technically the oldest street in Nangang is "Zhongnan Street" which most people refer to when they say Nangang Old Street, but I think the old street also spreads onto Nangang Road and Academia Sinica Road. Nangang was once part of Neihu District before it split in the ROC era. In the earliest times, Nangang was known as an industry hub for coal, brick making, and tea farming. In order to ship goods from Neihu to Nangang rail station, at least two suspension bridges were made across the Keelung River. In the ROC era, Nangang was also an industrial hub for car parts especially the Nankang Tire Factory, which still makes tires today. Currently, Nangang is being turned into Taipei's "next Xinyi District" and is the new artistic and cultural heart of Taipei. Hours: 24/7 Price: Free Tours: You can book a tour of Taipei on Tripadvisor here, KKday here or Klook here. Where to stay: High end: We have stayed at and recommend the Nangang Marriott (book on Booking.com here or Agoda here). We have also stayed at and recommend the Yuanshan Grand Hotel, once the tallest building in Taiwan and still the most grand (book on Booking.com here or Agoda here). Looking for a hotel? We recommend booking through Booking.com here, which provides the best quality selection of accommodation in Taiwan. Find out where to stay in our Taiwan hotels guide or search for the best hotel deals in Taiwan here. How to get there: By Car/Scooter: The old street I would say stretches in front of Nangang Train Station on Nangang Road and then loops over to Zhongnan Street near where Zhongxiao East Road Ends. There is paid parking nearby. Looking for scooter rental in Taipei? You can search on Klook here or KKday here to search for options. You can also check out our scooter rental guide here. If you are looking for car rentals, you can also search Qeeq here, Klook here, or KKday here. You can also check out our car rental guide here. By Bus/MRT: The old street I would say stretches in front of Nangang Train Station on Nangang Road and then loops over to Zhongnan Street near where Zhongxiao East Road Ends. You can purchase a discount easy card to use on the MRT from Klook here or KKday here. You can also book an MRT travel pass on Klook here. By Bicycle: Cycling is the best way to enjoy Taiwan's landscapes if you have the time and energy. Looking for bicycle rentals in Taiwan? You can use Taiwan's many Youbike sharing stations, or search for rentals on KKday here, and search for tours on Klook here. You can also check out our Taiwan cycling guide here. You can also book a Sunset Riverside Bike Ride and Historical Tour, 4 Hour Cycling in Taipei, Ultimate 8-Hour Cycling City Tour, or Taipei City Bike Tour with Night Market Experience on TripAdvisor here. For more information, check out our Taiwan transportation guide here. Map: Please see below: Our Journey: I have been to Nangang Old Street hundreds of times. After all, I live in Nangang. I never thought about the area as an old street because it is not advertised as a tourist area or pedestrian old street, but it really is. It's the most local and authentic old street to me, and it's not boring either. There are lots of interesting places and delicious food around. I highly recommend exploring Nangang around the old street.
If you visit Nangang Station you can see an explanation (similar to the above) and some old photos. The old street really took off around Nangang Station.
Nangang Station used to look like this and the train tracks were above ground. The station has been upgraded three times and includes a High Speed Rail station and MRT station. The latest edition of the train station with huge office buildings and City Link mall was completed in 2011.
An even earlier version of Nangang Station.
Timeline of Nangang's train station, from the station opening in 1899 to the new office buildings opening in 2014.
Explanation of the Osmanthus Flower, which was an important agricultural export in Nangang's early days. For more info, check out our blog on Nangang Tea Mountain here.
There is a beautiful mural at Nangang High School that shows the CTBC Financial Park, Nangang Exhibition Center, Le Architecture, and more classic buildings in Nangang.
CTBC Financial Park Ice Rink 中信園區溜冰場
CTBC Financial Park’s Ice Rink in Nangang District of Taipei is Taiwan’s only outdoor skating rink. It also includes a man-made snow play area for people who have never experienced snow. It’s the perfect way to celebrate the holiday season, and the best part is it's free!
Lè Architecture (Nangang Shell Building) 南港砳建築
Lè Architecture is an office building in Nangang District of Taipei with one of the most unique designs in Taipei City. The building uses a round design to mimic pebbles in the Keelung River and to show roundness, strength, and elegance in Taiwanese culture. The building is also extremely eco-friendly and has won various awards. It should definitely be included on any artists' map of Taipei...(read more)
Nangang Exhibition Center 南港展覽館
Many people are familiar with Nangang only for its exhibition center, which is a landmark in the District. The Old Street really starts here next to the Exhibition center with lots of old buildings nearby.
Taipei's Nangang Exhibition Center (aka TWTC Nangang Exhibition Hall or TaiNEX) is Taiwan's largest exhibition center. The area has two large exhibition buildings with multiple exhibition floors, as well as restaurants and convenience stores inside. With easy transportation from the Blue Line Nangang Exposition Center MRT station, it is a convenient place to hold events and conferences...(read more)
The real start of the old street is at Xiachazhuang tea shop at the intersection of Nangang Road and Zhongnan Street. Many consider Zhongnan Street to be the first street in Nangang and the actual old street itself.
Inside Xiachazhuang (夏茶莊).
View looking down Zhongnan Street. Most of the buildings here are old brick two story structures.
An old traditionally convenience store on the old street.
Barber shop on the old street.
Another small restaurant on the old street.
Old buildings and a breakfast shop, and tea shop.
Another rice restaurant.
Arched walkway along the old street, with ferns growing out of the building.
Portrait of old Nangang.
Another view from the old street.
Another restaurant.
Strange doorway near the intersection of Civic Boulevard.
There is also a rock climbing wall here.
The old street continues across the road.
There are lots of food stalls here along Civic Boulevard.
Sashimi stand.
More old one story buildings.
Old style store.
Ceramics shop.
Then the road intersects with Zhongxiao East Road. There are also some good eats here.
This baked meat cake shop usually always has a huge line of people waiting to buy.
There are also some good foods further down such as stinky tofu.
More old buildings further down the old street.
Nangang Church along the old street.
Another old convenience store along the old street.
Coffee Shop.
More old buildings at the end of the street.
At the very end of the street is my favorite Zongzi shop. You can buy them hot or frozen and take them home to cook.
According to Taiwan’s National Cultural Heritage Database Management System, Nangang district in Taipei only has 5 registered historical buildings. The most recent of these is the Que Family Ancestral House “闕家祖厝”, also known as Decheng Residence “德成居.” This house was added to Taiwan’s list of historical buildings in May of 2017, much to the chagrin of the houses’ current owner, causing a dispute between the family and the Ministry of Culture, which I discuss further in this post.
Funan Temple (富南宮) along Academia Sinica Road.
Another view of Funan Temple.
Main shrine at Funan Temple.
More restaurants along Academia Sinica Road.
Here you can find Sundongbao Steak and McDonald's. The are also building a new mall in the background.
Also in the middle of Nangang Road you will find Nangang Xingnan Temple (南港興南宮).
It takes its own spot in the middle of this intersection.
There are also lots of cool little old alleyways near Nangang Road.
Peaceful garden down another alleyway.
This iconic tree arch was once a popular photo spot near Nangang Old Street.
Another alleyway that kind of leaders to a dead end.
The same alleyway a few years later at night.
View after the recent demolition. The old Nangang is slowly being torn down to be replaced with new buildings in the future. Kind of sad.
Another view of the old tree archway.
And empty field of bricks that used to be houses.
Turning around, this is what you see on the busiest part of Nangang Road. There are lots of restaurants here. The 3 Duo Hot Pot and Huanle Steak place are both great places to eat.
Straight on view of the old buildings on Nangang Road.
View back toward Xingnan Temple which we just talked about.
There is also a mini night market here next to the Nangang Agricultural Association and Cankun. It might be the only actual night market in Nangang.
Another view of the night market stalls here.
Another interesting relic along Nangang Road is the Wei Chuan Milk and yogurt factory that has been around for ages. The building is an artifact. Really it should be retired for a more modern structure.
Mysterious old brick wall here probably dating back to the Qing Dynasty.
Wei Chuan milk factory Songshan Operating Center in Nangang.
Another view of the milk center.
They have also just built a brand new Biotech building here next to Nangang MRT Station.
Formerly there was a Yonghe Soymilk shop here which was torn down for urban development.
This is what it looks like now.
Lots of destruction. I think now this area is just flattened bricks.
Destroyed old house.
Another view of the destroyed and decaying houses.
There are also quite a few new building projects in front of Nangang Station.
Nangang Bottle Cap Factory (POPOP Taipei) 瓶蓋工廠台北製造所
Nangang's Bottle Cap Factory, now POPOP Taipei, was a Japanese era factory built 80 years ago and stopped production in 2004. Now it has been converted into a space for meetings, exhibitions, seminars, workshops, musical performances etc...(read more)
Taipei Music Center 臺北流行音樂中心
Taipei Music Center (aka TMC, or Taipei Pop Music Center 臺北流行音樂中心) is the first large performance area in Taiwan dedicated to pop music. It features three main buildings: a concert hall, a pop music cultural center, a creative hub building, and large open spaces and grassy areas. The area also has pedestrian bridges and easy access to Nangang Station. It should definitely be on your list on your next trip to Taipei...(read more)
Taipei Extreme Sports Training Center 臺北市極限運動訓練中心
Taipei's Extreme Sports Training Center in Nangang is one of the best places in Taiwan to practice skate boarding, roller blading, BMX biking, etc. Here you can find Taiwan's largest half pipe, quarter pipes, a pool, rails, ramps, a foam pit, and more. It is definitely worth a stop if you want to find a suitable place for extreme sports training...(read more)
Nangang Park 南港公園
Nangang Park is one of the most pleasant parks in Taipei. It features two large natural ponds, a large grassy area, a large children's play area, a jogging track, hiking trails, tennis courts, and much more. There are also amazing views of the nearby mountains, Taipei City, and the 101 tower. It is definitely worth a stop if you are in the area...(read more)
Songshan Sanatorium Superintendents’ Dormitory 松山療養所長宿舍
Nangang, the district in Taipei where I live and work, has a rich history that includes being a center for industry and transportation. However many of Nangang do historical buildings have been destroyed or sit in decay out of view of the general public, mostly due to greedy bureaucrats. One such building that lays hidden in Nangang from the Japanese era called “松山療養所長宿舍” which I have translated as “The Songshan Sanatorium Superintendent’s Dormitory.” ...(read more)
I also visited the now demolished Songshan Sanatorium before it was destroyed. We are sad to announce that as of January 13th, 2019 the Songshan Sanatorium has been unlawfully leveled to the ground. See our full blog on the building here.
Chengmei Left Bank Park is one of the nicest areas along the Keelung River and provides an amazing view of the sunset and downtown Taipei. It is definitely worth a stop on your next trip to Nangang...(read more)
Academia Sinica Museum of Ethnology 中央研究院民族學研究所博物館
Academia Sinica's Museum of Ethnology features artifacts from Taiwan's indigenous people and also Han Chinese culture. Entrance is free, it is usually devoid of people, and has amazing ancient artifacts from Taiwan. It is definitely worth a visit on your trip to Taipei...(read more)
Academia Sinica Museum of the Institute of History and Philology 中央研究院歷史文物陳列舘
Academia Sinica's Museum of History and Philology is one of the best museums in Taiwan. It has the largest collection of Chinese oracle bone remains in the world. It is also free, usually devoid of people, and has some of the most amazing ancient artifacts from Taiwan and China. It is like a mini National Palace Museum, and is worth a visit on your trip to Taipei...(read more)
Academia Sinica Trails 中央研究院的步道
Academia Sinica is the top research institution in Taiwan. It also borders a forest and has beautiful hiking trails where you can enjoy nature and see historical military sites. The area is worth a stroll if you have time...(read more)
Shanshuilu Eco Park 山水綠生態公園
Shanshuilu Eco Park (aka Shanshui Green Eco Park) in Nangang District of Taipei is a large grassy park with one of the best views in Taipei City, built over a former landfill. Here you can find beautiful mountain scenery, a large playground, ziplines, a sand pit, a reading room, and lots of large grassy areas. It is one of the most popular parks in Taipei City...(read more)
Nangang Tea Mountain 南港茶園區
As one of the most secret and unknown tourist attractions in Taipei City, Nangang Tea Mountain is a large mountain area that offers pleasant hikes, great views, historical buildings, no crowds, and most of all tea. It is one of only two mountain tea growing areas in Taipei City, the other being Maokong. Hopefully this blog will help you understand how much natural beauty and intact history this is in Nangang District...(read more)
Pizza Hut Buffet (Huanleba) 必勝客歡樂吧吃到飽
Taiwan's Pizza Hut 歡樂吧 all you can eat buffet is every American pizza lover's dream, at a reasonable price. One of the three location left in Taiwan is in Nangang.
Let me reiterate this clearly: Pizza Hut has buffets in Taiwan. For about 400 NT, you can have all you can eat pizza. This is cheaper then buying a small Pizza Hut pizza from their delivery locations. And you can sample all the new weird pizza hut flavors without having to buy an entire pizza...(read more) Bogart's Smokehouse Taipei 美式木柴烤肉屋
Bogart's Smokehouse is an authentic American barbeque restaurant in Nangang District of Taipei. Run by Americans, it is a taste of home for many foreigners in Taiwan...(read more)
Beidahuang Dumpling Shop 北大荒水餃店
Beidahuang in Nangang serves gigantic and delicious boiled dumplings, just east of Nangang Train Station, with more meat per dumpling than a pork bun. They are the largest boiled dumplings I have ever seen. If you are in the area, this restaurant is worth a stop...(read more)
Wufen and Neihu Hulu Suspension Bridges 五分吊橋和內湖葫蘆洲吊橋
Currently two remaining suspension bridge towers next to the Keelung River from the industrial era of Nangang. The best preserved is “五分吊橋” Wufen suspension bridge. According to the signs next to the bridge, it was built in 1918...(read more)
Chengmei Changshou Bridge 成美長壽橋
Chengmei Changshou Bridge is one of the best preserved suspension bridges in Nangang, even though it is no longer a true suspension bridge. A few months ago we wrote a blog about the defunct suspension bridges along the Keelung River. This bridge is also lies in the Nangang/Neihu stretch of the Keelung River and was also once a suspension bridge, so I feel it deserves a blog as well...(read more)
Nangang Brick Kiln Smokestacks 南港烟囪的歷史
After the ROC took control of Taiwan in 1945, the government designated Taipei's Nangang (南港) as an industrial district. At this time, the brick making and coal mining industries were starting to wind down, and other industries such as chemical plants, tire factories, fertilizer, and others were taking off. A forest of Smokestacks covered the area, and and because of this Nangang was known as Black Town “黑鄉.” For a view of what the old Nangang looked like, click here.
Of the many smokestacks that once covered Nangang, only 3 remain standing, and there is another which is highly damaged. The first smokestack I will talk about is not very well known at all. In fact I only found one blog that mentions it, calling it "南港繁華的磚廠遺址," and there is also a facebook page that someone created for it, which has a pretty good history of the place. This factory is still in use as a banana field/garage.
There is now a brick kiln themed restaruant right next to it.
Wider view of the restaruant.
View inside the restaurant.
Also I want to mention the former Nankang Tire Factory that was next to what is now Taipei Music Center. They tore it down and are now building four huge office buildings. But they let Nangang Tire Factory advertise on the work site.
Finally I want to leave you with this photo. Despite all the destruction that has been happening in Nangang, they resurrected the Nangang Tire Factory smokestack seen in the photo above. I always wondered about this because it was declared a historical monument. Now it stands on the same site as the former tire factory.
Well I think that pretty much wraps it up for historic Nangang Old Street. There are other places I could add but I will stop here. You can get a 20% discount on the Taiwan High Speed Rail to Nangang on Klook here or KKday here. Check out our full guide to Nangang here. Check out our guide to Taipei's Old Streets here. Also be sure to check out our guide to Taipei here. You can also check out our full travel guide to Taiwan here.
1 Comment
Wilson Co
4/16/2024 03:37:59 pm
Very nice information
Reply
Your comment will be posted after it is approved.
Leave a Reply. |
Author 作家I am an American expat who has extensive experience living, working, and traveling in Taiwan. In my day, I had to learn many things about Taiwan the hard way. But I have come to learn that Taiwan is one of the best places in the world for Foreigners to live. This blog does not represent the opinions of every foreigner in Taiwan. I am just trying to help others learn more about this beautiful country. Categories
|