Foreigners in Taiwan - 外國人在臺灣
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        • Taiwan Cycling Guide – The Ultimate Guide to the Bicycle Kingdom 台灣騎自行車指南
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        • The Ultimate Travel Guide to Taipei 臺北旅遊指南 >
          • Yangmingshan National Park 陽明山懶人包 – Your Complete Travel Guide
          • Ultimate Guide to Taipei’s Old Streets 台北老街指南
          • The Ultimate Travel Guide to Pingxi and Shifen 平溪懶人包
          • The Ultimate One-Day Taipei Itinerary 一天在臺北怎麽旅遊
          • The Ultimate Guide to Taipei’s Night Markets 臺北夜市指南
          • The Most Awesome Day Trips from Taipei 台北一日遊景點
          • The Complete 2025 Beitou Hot Springs Guide: Soak Like Royalty 北投溫泉英文指南
          • The Best Views of the Taipei 101 (Best Places to see New Year’s Fireworks) 欣賞101煙火的最佳地點
          • The Best Beaches Near Taipei: North Taiwan’s Top 10 台北前10名的沙灘 >
            • Hualien Travel Guide 花蓮懶人包 – The Most Beautiful Part of Taiwan >
              • What to See and Do in Hualien Besides Taroko Gorge
              • Ultimate Taroko National Park Travel Guide – Explore the Deepest Marble Gorge on Earth 太魯閣國家公園懶人包
              • Taroko Gorge Travel Guide (太魯閣) – Taiwan’s Most Breathtaking Geological Feature
          • Tamsui Travel Guide – Taipei’s Amazing Historic Riverside Town 淡水最佳的景點
          • Taipei’s Waterfall Guide – Explore the City’s Most Breathtaking Falls 台北瀑布指南
          • Taipei Museum Guide – Discover the Best Museums in Taipei 臺北博物館指南
          • Taipei City Hiking Guide – The Best Hikes in Taipei 台灣爬山指南
          • Taipei 101: The Ultimate Guide to Taiwan’s Tallest Tower (臺北101)
          • Shifen Waterfall and Old Street Travel Guide: Everything You Need to Know Before You Go
          • Qingtiangang Grassland: See Amazing Views and Buffalo Close-Up 擎天崗
          • Our Travel Guide to Wulai – Taipei’s Amazing Mountain Paradise (烏來旅遊指南)
          • Jiufen Old Street – Taiwan’s Amazing Mountainside Village 九份老街
          • Dihua Street and Dadaocheng – Taipei’s Amazing Historical Hipster Paradise 迪化街及大稻埕
          • Children and Parent’s Travel Guide to Taipei 小孩及家長台北旅遊指南
        • Taiwan’s Northern Coast Travel Guide – Discover a Beautiful and Amazing Coastline 台灣北海岸懶人包 >
          • Yehliu Geopark – The Amazing Crown Jewel of Taiwan’s Northern Coast 野柳地質公園
        • Keelung Travel Guide – Best Places to See in the Harbor City 基隆旅遊指南
        • Taoyuan Travel Guide – More Than Just an Airport City 桃園旅游懶人包
        • Travel Guide to Hsinchu 新竹懶人包 – Taiwan’s Charming Tech Hub
        • Miaoli Travel Guide – Discover this Amazing Mountainous Backwater 苗栗旅遊懶人包 >
          • Huoyanshan
        • Taichung Travel Guide 台中旅遊懶人包 – Discover Central Taiwan’s Hidden Secrets
        • Gaomei Wetlands – Complete Guide to Taichung’s Amazing Wildlife Area 高美濕地
        • Nantou Travel Guide – Taiwan’s Most Stunning Mountain Getaway 南投縣懶人包
        • Sun Moon Lake Travel Guide – Taiwan’s Most Beautiful Lake 日月潭旅游指南
        • Changhua Travel Guide – Fall in Love with Taiwan’s Historical Central County 彰化懒人包
        • Chiayi Travel Guide – Best Places to Visit, Eat & Explore 嘉義懶人包
        • Alishan 阿里山 – Taiwan’s Ultimate Mountain Destination
        • Alishan Forest Railway Travel Guide (阿里山森林鐵路) – Taiwan’s Most Scenic Rail Line
        • Yunlin Travel Guide 雲林旅遊懶人包 – A Rural Wonderland in Southwest Taiwan
        • Tainan Travel Guide: Discover Taiwan’s Oldest City & Ultimate Foodie Paradise – 臺南懶人包
        • Travel Guide to Kaohsiung – Southern Taiwan’s Most Vibrant City 高雄旅遊懶人包 >
          • Tianliao Moon World Travel Guide 田寮月世界 – Taiwan’s Out-of-this-World Geopark
          • Qijin (Cijin) Island Travel Guide – Koahsiung’s Best Beach Destination 旗津懶人包
          • Maolin Travel Guide 茂林旅游懶人包 – Our Favorite Place in Taiwan
          • Monkey Mountain (Shoushan) 壽山 – Taiwan’s Best Monkey-Spotting Location
          • Lotus Pond Travel Guide 蓮池潭 – Kaohsiung’s Scenic Temple Area
          • Cheng Ching Lake Ultimate Travel Guide 澄清湖完整導覽
          • Pingtung Travel Guide – Explore Taiwan’s Sunniest County 屏東旅遊懶人包
          • Kenting Travel Guide 墾丁懶人包 – The Best Beaches in Taiwan
          • Travel Guide to Yilan 宜蘭懶人包 – Beaches, Mountains, Hot Springs, and more
          • Guide to Toucheng 頭城懶人包 – Yilan’s Amazing Seaside Paradise
          • Taipingshan Travel Guide 太平山 – Discover Yilan’s Amazing Mountain Scenery
          • Our Guide to Taiwan’s East Coast 台灣東海岸指南 – Taiwan’s Most Beautiful Coastline
          • Taiwan’s East Rift Valley (Huadong Valley) Travel Guide 花東縱谷旅遊指南 – The Most Beautiful Places in Taiwan
          • Taitung Travel Guide – Top Things to Do in Taiwan’s Outdoor Tourism Paradise 台東懶人包
          • Taiwan National Public Holiday Guide 台灣國定假日指南
          • The Ultimate Taiwan Hotel Guide 臺灣飯店指南
          • The Ultimate Taiwan SIM Card, eSIM, and Portable Wi-Fi Guide
          • The Ultimate Taiwan Transportation Guide 台灣交通常見問題
          • The Ultimate Taiwan Butterfly Watching Guide 台灣賞蝴蝶指南
          • The Ultimate Foreigner’s Guide for Surviving in Taiwan 外國人在台灣存活指南
  • Home
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      • All Outer Islands
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        • Xiaoliuqiu Ferry Guide
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      • Penghu >
        • Shanshui Beach
        • Shili Beach
        • Aimen Beach
        • Serpent Head Mountain
        • Fongguei Cave
        • Moses Parting Sea
        • Penghu Great Bridge
        • Penghu Best Beaches
      • Green Island
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      • Nangang
    • Northern Taiwan >
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      • Hsinchu
      • Taoyuan
      • Northern Coast
      • Yangmingshan
      • Pingxi Railway
      • Tamsui
      • Wulai
      • Heping Island
      • Four Furthest Points
      • Shiding
    • Southern Taiwan >
      • Kenting
      • Chiayi
      • Tainan
      • Kaohsiung
      • Pingtung
      • Maolin
      • Lotus Pond
      • Moon World
      • Cheng Ching Lake
      • Qijin
    • Eastern Taiwan >
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      • Tapingshan
      • Yilan
      • Hualien
      • Taitung
      • Taroko National Park
      • Toucheng
      • East Coast
      • East Rift Valley
      • Sanxiantai
    • Central Taiwan >
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    • Geography and Weather >
      • Geography
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    • Travel >
      • Car Rental
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      • Foreigner Survival Guide
      • Hotel FAQ
      • International Driving Permit
      • Long Term Hotels
      • Sailing
      • Scooter/Moped Rental
      • Taipei FAQ
      • Tourist Sites FAQ
      • Transportation FAQ
    • People and Culture >
      • Economy / Living Standards
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    • Full Taiwan FAQ List
  • Blog
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    • Global Expat Travel Blog >
      • Hakka Kitchen
      • Bank Comparison
      • Snow Hakka
      • Mid-Autumn Festival
      • Ghost Month
      • Taiwan Vs. Thailand
      • Morakot
      • Gaemi
      • Mango Guide
      • Sand Fest
      • TD 19
      • Krathon
      • Typhoon Kong-Rey
      • Shen'ao Railbike
      • Museum of World Religions
      • Nanjichang Night Market
      • Popsmile Tourist Factory
      • Taiwan Science Center
      • Taiwan Better Than Thailand
      • Hualien Besides Taroko
      • Taiwan Car Rental Guide
      • Lunar/Chinese New Year Guide
      • Taiwan Lantern Festival Guide
      • Tomb Sweeping Festival
      • Taiwan Cherry Blossom Guide
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  • Maps
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  • About
    • About
    • Contact
    • Facebook
    • Twitter (X)
    • Instagram
    • YouTube
    • Current Time and Date in Taiwan
    • Privacy
    • More >
      • Taiwan Travel Blog Posts >
        • Guide to Taiwan
        • Taiwan’s Outer Islands. >
          • Turtle Island (Guishan Island)
          • Green Island 綠島
          • Xiaoliuqiu Island (小琉球)
          • Keelung Islet (基隆嶼)
          • Orchid Island (Lanyu) 蘭嶼
          • Kinmen Islands Guide
          • Matsu Islands
          • Penghu Guide
        • Taiwan Cycling Guide – The Ultimate Guide to the Bicycle Kingdom 台灣騎自行車指南
        • The Ultimate Taiwan Scooter/Motorcycle Rental Guide 在臺灣租機車
        • The Ultimate Taiwan Car Rental Guide – Save Money on Your Next Trip 臺灣租汽車指南
        • Camping in Taiwan Guide – Everything you Need to Know 在台灣露營常見問題
        • Taiwan Blogroll – Top English Blogs to Follow for All Things Taiwan
        • The Ultimate Travel Guide to Taipei 臺北旅遊指南 >
          • Yangmingshan National Park 陽明山懶人包 – Your Complete Travel Guide
          • Ultimate Guide to Taipei’s Old Streets 台北老街指南
          • The Ultimate Travel Guide to Pingxi and Shifen 平溪懶人包
          • The Ultimate One-Day Taipei Itinerary 一天在臺北怎麽旅遊
          • The Ultimate Guide to Taipei’s Night Markets 臺北夜市指南
          • The Most Awesome Day Trips from Taipei 台北一日遊景點
          • The Complete 2025 Beitou Hot Springs Guide: Soak Like Royalty 北投溫泉英文指南
          • The Best Views of the Taipei 101 (Best Places to see New Year’s Fireworks) 欣賞101煙火的最佳地點
          • The Best Beaches Near Taipei: North Taiwan’s Top 10 台北前10名的沙灘 >
            • Hualien Travel Guide 花蓮懶人包 – The Most Beautiful Part of Taiwan >
              • What to See and Do in Hualien Besides Taroko Gorge
              • Ultimate Taroko National Park Travel Guide – Explore the Deepest Marble Gorge on Earth 太魯閣國家公園懶人包
              • Taroko Gorge Travel Guide (太魯閣) – Taiwan’s Most Breathtaking Geological Feature
          • Tamsui Travel Guide – Taipei’s Amazing Historic Riverside Town 淡水最佳的景點
          • Taipei’s Waterfall Guide – Explore the City’s Most Breathtaking Falls 台北瀑布指南
          • Taipei Museum Guide – Discover the Best Museums in Taipei 臺北博物館指南
          • Taipei City Hiking Guide – The Best Hikes in Taipei 台灣爬山指南
          • Taipei 101: The Ultimate Guide to Taiwan’s Tallest Tower (臺北101)
          • Shifen Waterfall and Old Street Travel Guide: Everything You Need to Know Before You Go
          • Qingtiangang Grassland: See Amazing Views and Buffalo Close-Up 擎天崗
          • Our Travel Guide to Wulai – Taipei’s Amazing Mountain Paradise (烏來旅遊指南)
          • Jiufen Old Street – Taiwan’s Amazing Mountainside Village 九份老街
          • Dihua Street and Dadaocheng – Taipei’s Amazing Historical Hipster Paradise 迪化街及大稻埕
          • Children and Parent’s Travel Guide to Taipei 小孩及家長台北旅遊指南
        • Taiwan’s Northern Coast Travel Guide – Discover a Beautiful and Amazing Coastline 台灣北海岸懶人包 >
          • Yehliu Geopark – The Amazing Crown Jewel of Taiwan’s Northern Coast 野柳地質公園
        • Keelung Travel Guide – Best Places to See in the Harbor City 基隆旅遊指南
        • Taoyuan Travel Guide – More Than Just an Airport City 桃園旅游懶人包
        • Travel Guide to Hsinchu 新竹懶人包 – Taiwan’s Charming Tech Hub
        • Miaoli Travel Guide – Discover this Amazing Mountainous Backwater 苗栗旅遊懶人包 >
          • Huoyanshan
        • Taichung Travel Guide 台中旅遊懶人包 – Discover Central Taiwan’s Hidden Secrets
        • Gaomei Wetlands – Complete Guide to Taichung’s Amazing Wildlife Area 高美濕地
        • Nantou Travel Guide – Taiwan’s Most Stunning Mountain Getaway 南投縣懶人包
        • Sun Moon Lake Travel Guide – Taiwan’s Most Beautiful Lake 日月潭旅游指南
        • Changhua Travel Guide – Fall in Love with Taiwan’s Historical Central County 彰化懒人包
        • Chiayi Travel Guide – Best Places to Visit, Eat & Explore 嘉義懶人包
        • Alishan 阿里山 – Taiwan’s Ultimate Mountain Destination
        • Alishan Forest Railway Travel Guide (阿里山森林鐵路) – Taiwan’s Most Scenic Rail Line
        • Yunlin Travel Guide 雲林旅遊懶人包 – A Rural Wonderland in Southwest Taiwan
        • Tainan Travel Guide: Discover Taiwan’s Oldest City & Ultimate Foodie Paradise – 臺南懶人包
        • Travel Guide to Kaohsiung – Southern Taiwan’s Most Vibrant City 高雄旅遊懶人包 >
          • Tianliao Moon World Travel Guide 田寮月世界 – Taiwan’s Out-of-this-World Geopark
          • Qijin (Cijin) Island Travel Guide – Koahsiung’s Best Beach Destination 旗津懶人包
          • Maolin Travel Guide 茂林旅游懶人包 – Our Favorite Place in Taiwan
          • Monkey Mountain (Shoushan) 壽山 – Taiwan’s Best Monkey-Spotting Location
          • Lotus Pond Travel Guide 蓮池潭 – Kaohsiung’s Scenic Temple Area
          • Cheng Ching Lake Ultimate Travel Guide 澄清湖完整導覽
          • Pingtung Travel Guide – Explore Taiwan’s Sunniest County 屏東旅遊懶人包
          • Kenting Travel Guide 墾丁懶人包 – The Best Beaches in Taiwan
          • Travel Guide to Yilan 宜蘭懶人包 – Beaches, Mountains, Hot Springs, and more
          • Guide to Toucheng 頭城懶人包 – Yilan’s Amazing Seaside Paradise
          • Taipingshan Travel Guide 太平山 – Discover Yilan’s Amazing Mountain Scenery
          • Our Guide to Taiwan’s East Coast 台灣東海岸指南 – Taiwan’s Most Beautiful Coastline
          • Taiwan’s East Rift Valley (Huadong Valley) Travel Guide 花東縱谷旅遊指南 – The Most Beautiful Places in Taiwan
          • Taitung Travel Guide – Top Things to Do in Taiwan’s Outdoor Tourism Paradise 台東懶人包
          • Taiwan National Public Holiday Guide 台灣國定假日指南
          • The Ultimate Taiwan Hotel Guide 臺灣飯店指南
          • The Ultimate Taiwan SIM Card, eSIM, and Portable Wi-Fi Guide
          • The Ultimate Taiwan Transportation Guide 台灣交通常見問題
          • The Ultimate Taiwan Butterfly Watching Guide 台灣賞蝴蝶指南
          • The Ultimate Foreigner’s Guide for Surviving in Taiwan 外國人在台灣存活指南

Blog Posts

Walking Across Taiwan: A Journey of Discovery

4/17/2025

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Walking across Taiwan was one of the most challenging and enriching experiences of my life. For several days, we crossed roads, mountains, and remote villages, experiencing the island's natural and cultural beauty firsthand. In this article, you'll find our day-by-day journey: from the stunning landscapes of the east coast to unexpected encounters with locals who opened their homes and schools to us.
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Our adventure began in Dulan, a small coastal town in Taitung County, and after 8 days of walking, we reached our final destination at Hualien Station, covering a total of 200.4 km. Each day brought challenges: the heat of the road, long walks without shade, and the uncertainty of not knowing where we'd sleep each night. But there were also magical moments: having breakfast with schoolchildren, making music with them, learning about aboriginal traditions, enjoying local flavours, and witnessing some of the most beautiful sunrises I've ever seen.
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If you're interested in discovering Taiwan from a unique perspective, with details about the route, the most memorable anecdotes, and tips for those looking to embark on a similar journey, this post is for you. Welcome to the adventure of crossing Taiwan on foot!
Written By Rodrigo (Tu copiloto nomada)

Day 0: The Beginning in Dulan
Our journey officially began at 15:00 when we departed from Tainan toward our first stop in Taitung. The train journey was somewhat long but quite comfortable. We took two trains that cost us 450 Taiwan dollars per person (€13): the first took us from Tainan, where we lived, to Kaohsiung in just 30 minutes. Then, we boarded the second train from Kaohsiung to Taitung, a journey of about 2.5 to 3 hours.
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Upon arriving in Taitung, we took a bus that cost 50 Taiwan dollars per person (€1.50) to the town of Dulan, our final destination for the day. This trip took about 30 minutes and left us in the city at 19:30.

When planning, we knew we would arrive late and had two options: Book accommodation or a camping site with paid facilities and not worry or venture out at night to find a free camping spot. We ended up choosing the second option for adventure's sake.

Once in Dulan, we started looking for a place to camp. For some reason, we got off the bus two stops before we had planned, and it turned out to be a great decision. We walked a bit and, luckily, found a pizzeria called "POOZ" with a small open park outside. We decided to ask if we could pitch our tent there, and the owner, very friendly, gave us permission without any problem. So, with the tent set up, we already felt more at ease.
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Since we were camping in front of the pizzeria, we decided to stay there for dinner. We enjoyed a delicious pizza and, while chatting with the owner, he asked if we were still hungry after finishing the pizza and surprised us with an extra pizza as "dessert," which had apple, orange, cheese, and nuts. What a generous gesture!
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The night continued to be incredibly relaxed, as the owner told us he would leave the restaurant doors open. We could use the place to cook, charge our phones, and if we were thirsty, drink water without problems. As if that wasn't enough, he gave us a coconut, which he cut and gave us to enjoy as a refreshing drink after a full day of travel. All this was a small sample of the kindness we found in Dulan and what we would experience throughout the journey.

This first day, although without much walking, was perfect to start our adventure. We felt well received, rested, and ready for the road ahead. The welcome to Dulan was warm and left us with a smile.

Day Summary:
  • Start: Tainan
  • End: Dulan
  • Distance walked: 0 km
  • Total distance: 0 km
  • Expenses (per person):
    • Public transportation: 500 Taiwan dollars (€14.50)
    • Food: 255 Taiwan dollars (€8.00)

Daily Reflection:
Although it was only the first day of our trip, the hospitality of the pizzeria owner made us feel at home. Taiwan is not only beautiful but also a place full of kind people willing to share a bit of their life and culture.

Day 1: From Dulan to the Abandoned House
The morning began at 6:00, although the previous night wasn't the most peaceful. A dog was barking all night, and since we were camping near the road, the noise of cars didn't help either. Despite the lack of rest, we got up early, took down the tent, and went to look for breakfast. We found a local shop where we bought two coffees and two toasts, and we sat down to enjoy breakfast calmly. We also took advantage of the fact that the pizzeria owner had left the place open for us to charge our phones.
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At 8:00, we began our day's walk, knowing we had several kilometres ahead. Along the way, we crossed through several villages, but what surprised us most was meeting an American who approached us after about 6 or 7 km at a mechanic's workshop. It turns out he had been living in Taiwan for several years and told us he was planning to go surfing that morning. We chatted for a while about life in Europe and his experience in Taiwan and then continued walking.
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Shortly after, after about 7 or 8 km more, we ran into the American again! This time he was at the door of his house, and it was pure coincidence because we hadn't exchanged numbers. He invited us in, and we gladly accepted. He was with his Taiwanese wife and son. He offered us coffee and nuts while telling us about his life in Taiwan. It was a very pleasant short break on the road.
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After our chat, we resumed our walk and decided to stop for lunch at a noodle shop, where they served us a delicious dish for only 60 Taiwan dollars (€2) each. Replenished and satisfied, we walked for about two more hours. Along the way, we came across rice fields; it wasn't harvesting season, but we could see the water mirrors. We continued walking until finally reaching Douli Beach, where we hoped to camp. However, low tide played a trick on us: at night, the tide rises to cover the entire beach, so there was no place to camp.
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We continued walking along the main road, looking for a place to pitch the tent. First, we asked at a private house, but they told us we couldn't stay there. Then, we tried at a student residence, but they didn't let us stay either, as it was a place where you could only stay if you paid. Despite the difficulties, we kept looking until we found a spot away from the road, next to an apparently abandoned house. We weren't sure if we could camp there; we tried asking different people, but they wouldn't tell us definitively if it was possible.
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At 17:00, we decided it was late, and we didn't want to keep looking. So, we pitched the tent next to the abandoned house, hoping nothing strange would happen. We were a bit uneasy, but we trusted that everything would be fine. Unfortunately, it was a bit far, about a 10-minute walk, from a 7-Eleven for our dinner and to charge our phones. We felt satisfied with what we had accomplished so far. We'll see how it goes tomorrow.

Day Summary:
  • Start: Dulan
  • End: Douli
  • Distance walked: 29.3 km
  • Total distance: 29.3 km
  • Expenses (per person):
    • Food: 210 Taiwan dollars (€6.50)
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Daily Reflection:
Although things didn't go as planned with camping, the experience of meeting the American and the kindness of the Taiwanese people made the day special. Each step brings us closer to our goal, and although there are unforeseen events, that's what makes the journey memorable.
Day 2: From the Abandoned House to MeishanThe day began at 6:00, as always, with the early sun waking us up. After breaking camp, we started walking at 7:00. Just 1 kilometre after starting, we found a detour that led us to a bike path. We decided to stop there for breakfast, taking advantage of a small park with views of the sea. A quiet and perfect place for a break.
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We continued along the bike path, which although still a road, had the advantage of being away from cars, allowing us to enjoy the ocean views without the hustle and bustle of traffic. At the end of the bike path, we reached a temple with a gigantic Buddha, whose gaze seemed to be lost on the horizon of the sea. On the beach, next to the road, were tetrapods, those concrete structures that help mitigate the impact of waves and protect the road from erosion.
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After passing through that picturesque place, we continued walking until we reached the city of Chenggong at 10:15. There, we decided to enjoy a vegetarian buffet, which allowed us to replenish our energy. We took advantage of the break not only to eat but also to charge our phones, which were already starting to run out of battery.
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ith renewed energy, we continued our way for another hour until we reached Sanxiantai Island. This island is famous for its dragon-shaped bridge, which goes up and down in a quite peculiar route, connecting the island of Taiwan with the small island of Sanxiantai. Although we didn't cross the entire bridge due to the waves and strong wind, we took the opportunity to take some photos and enjoy the landscape.
 
It was already 14:30 when we arrived at the village of Meishan, where we had in mind to camp. We approached a school, but there was no one there, so we decided to ask at the nearby police station if we could sleep there. After some doubts and a couple of back-and-forths, they gave us permission to camp at the school, but with the condition that we had to leave before 7:00 in the morning.
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We set up the tent trying to make it as comfortable as possible to avoid noise and wind. After a well-deserved rest, we went to a nearby Family Mart to charge our phones and replenish some supplies. The night brought with it a strong wind that made our tent move quite a bit. Although the tent was in perfect condition, the noise of the wind made it difficult to sleep, and we woke up several times during the night. However, in the end, we managed to rest enough to continue the next day.

Day Summary:
  • Start: Douli
  • End: Meishan
  • Distance walked: 24.5 km
  • Total distance: 53.8 km
  • Expenses (per person):
    • Food: 225 Taiwan dollars (€6.50)
    • Water and coffee: 50 Taiwan dollars (€1.50)

Daily Reflection:
Although the wind gave us some trouble at night, the day was full of beautiful landscapes and interesting moments, like the dragon-shaped bridge and the kindness of the police. Each day seems to bring something new and exciting on this journey through Taiwan.

Day 3: From Meishan to an Unexpected Home
The day began at 5:30 AM, as we had to quickly dismantle the camp. We knew we had to leave before 7:00 AM because the schoolchildren would arrive for classes. The night had been difficult: the wind was so strong that the tent was constantly moving, which kept us awake more than expected. The tent was shaking forcefully, and there were moments when we thought it might not resist, but it held up. However, despite the noise, we managed to get some sleep.
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With the wind still blowing strong, we started packing everything up, and by 6:00 AM, we had already started walking. Soon after, about 2-3 km away, we found a perfect lookout point to have a quiet breakfast. We had coffee and a croissant while enjoying the views.
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We continued walking, and within minutes, we reached "Nanreshi" (男人石), a curious rock formation that, if you look at it from above, has the shape of a penis. Around it, a path with statues of phallic figures decorated the landscape. After taking some photos, we continued our march.
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The day got more complicated: Walking on the road, with few stops, the wind increased, and little by little, the rain began to intensify, making the walk a bit more difficult. Despite this, we continued until we reached a temple on the side of the road. There, we decided to stop, light incense, and say a small prayer, each making wishes. It was a moment of calm in the middle of the walk.
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While we were at the temple, a car coming in the opposite direction stopped and, unexpectedly, gave us two oranges each. An act of kindness that brightened our day and gave us back the energy to continue.
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We reached Changbin around noon, around 13:00, quite tired from the wind and rain, so we stopped to eat at a local restaurant, where they served us noodles with vegetables. After the meal, we walked 2 more kilometres, looking for a place to camp. We saw a temple and a church near a Family Mart, but there was no grass available to put the tent anywhere.
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After a bit more exploration, we found a service station. Right in front, there was what seemed to be private land, so we asked at the gas station across the street if we could camp there. The employee said he would try to contact the landowner but couldn't. However, he offered us an alternative: he would finish work at 21:00 and, if we wanted, would take us to his house to spend the night there. After talking it over and asking the Taiwanese man a few more questions, like if he would bring us back to the gas station in the morning, how he would take us to the house, and where his house was, we accepted the offer, and meanwhile, we went to 7-Eleven to charge our phones and have dinner.

At 21:00, the gas station employee arrived in his car and took us to his house, about 10 minutes away, which for us had been a 2-hour walk earlier that day. There, he offered us a room with a bed, blanket, pillow, and welcomed us kindly. We bought a pack of beers as a thank you and to share, and we spent a pleasant time talking with him while enjoying beers and snacks.
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After an hour or so of chatting, we went to take a shower (after 3 days without showering!). We felt like new. At around 23:30, the man told us he was going out with a friend and left the house to us. He showed us how to lock the front door and left. We were left alone in his house, two complete strangers, but the gesture of hospitality was incredible. He told us that his hobby is fishing (Chaka, chaka as he said) and that the next day he worked in the morning and in the afternoon was going fishing with some friends.
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That night we slept comfortably in a bed, which was a luxury after so many nights in the tent.
More than a safe roof, we found humanity. It was another reminder of how the path, although hard and challenging, always holds unexpected surprises.

Day Summary:
  • Start: Meishan
  • End: Changbin
  • Distance walked: 25.8 km
  • Total distance: 79.6 km
  • Expenses (per person):
    • Food: 215 Taiwan dollars (€6.25)
    • Beer and coffee: 160 Taiwan dollars (€4.50)

Daily Reflection:
Today was a day full of surprises, with winds, rains, and moments of desperation, but also with the warmth of unexpected hospitality from a complete stranger. It made us feel that, despite the difficulties, there is always kindness on the road.

Day 4: Aboriginal Encounters and Crossing the Tropic of Cancer
We woke up at 6:00, awakened by our Taiwanese host with a cheerful "Good morning." We had slept at his house the night before, and we got up quickly to start the day. After gathering our things, he drove us in his car to have breakfast where he had picked us up the day before. It was a simple breakfast, but with a special touch: they offered us to try a typical Taiwanese liquor, strong and herbal, which according to them, would give us energy for the road. After saying goodbye to him, who went to work, we decided to continue our way.
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The day was quite calm in terms of walking, but we were walking on the highway. After an hour and a half, we reached the "Baxiandong Archaeological Site" (八仙洞), a cave formation formed by a volcanic eruption centuries ago. There, we had a small break exploring the caves and playing with a local dog that appeared. After that little break, we continued moving forward.
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Shortly after, we reached the monument that marks the end of Taitung County and the beginning of Hualien County. An important monument in our walk. We decided to make a stop to rest and regain strength.
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A few kilometres further on, we arrived at the Tropic of Cancer, where there was a "Jing Pu" monument marking this geographical parallel, one of the few in the world. We tried to find a place to eat, but we had no luck. The town where we were was small and there weren't many vegetarian options, so we continued walking.
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After crossing a small bridge, we walked about 15 minutes more until we reached an Aboriginal village in "Fengbin" called "Gankgou." There, we found a small shop that sold us bao and hot coffee. It was already 15:00, and we hadn't eaten anything since the morning, so we sat down to enjoy the food. The baos were of several types: two taro, one meat, and two cauliflowers. While waiting for the food, we talked with the shop owner who told us a bit about the history of the region. She mentioned that this part of the island is inhabited by the "Amis" aborigines, one of the local tribes, which has around 2 million members. Interestingly, she explained that the eastern region of the island is mostly Catholic due to missionaries, while in the west, there is more Buddhist influence. It was a brief but rich conversation that reminded us how much there is to learn when one walks through foreign lands.
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After eating, it was already 16:00, so we decided to continue walking to "Shitping" (石梯坪遊憩區), our next destination, to see where we could camp. I walked ahead first to find a camping spot, and my girlfriend stayed at the restaurant to order more baos for dinner.
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Upon arrival, we found a suitable place behind some people's house. It was a terrain with quite a bit of vegetation, although rocky. We approached and, with the help of the phone translator, asked the owners if we could stay there that night. The elderly couple didn't understand very well at first, but their daughter helped us communicate. They offered us to sleep in a covered garage, but we told them we preferred to camp outdoors. Finally, they gave us permission without problems.
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With the tent set up, we went out for a walk along the coast, which was incredibly beautiful. We returned to the tent around 18:30, organized everything, and had dinner. By 20:00, we were inside the tent and preparing to sleep.

Day Summary:
  • Start: Changbin
  • End: Shitping
  • Distance walked: 25.3 km
  • Total distance: 104.9 km
  • Expenses (per person):
    • Food: 300 Taiwan dollars (€8.50)
    • Coffee: 40 Taiwan dollars (€1.00)

Daily Reflection:
It was a day of long roads but full of experiences. From trying the typical liquor to meeting the "Amis" Aboriginal, each encounter was special. Despite the obstacles, each step brought us closer to our goal and allowed us to discover the most authentic aspects of Taiwan.

Day 5: Highway Adventure and Camping at a School
The day began early, at 5:30, when the sound of the waves and the soft light of dawn woke us up in Shitiping. We woke up to disassemble the tent and enjoy the sunrise. Despite the accumulated fatigue, the landscape gave us a moment of peace. We took the opportunity to take some photos of the scenery, and at 6:30, we began to walk. The first stop was at a bathroom in Shitping, not only out of necessity but also to wash our faces and enjoy the views. We spent a good while there before resuming the path.
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We continued walking until we reached a viewpoint about 2 km away, where we took a break and had breakfast. We had coffee from 7-Eleven and some leftover baos from the night before, made of taro and sweet potato. We enjoyed the simple but comforting breakfast while contemplating the sea and then continued walking.
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The journey today was a bit monotonous, as it was all asphalt and highway without nearby towns. Around 6 km, we reached another viewpoint where we stopped briefly to take some photos. We stopped for a few minutes to take photos, but we didn't linger much: the day promised to be long. A kilometre later, we came across a cave called "March" (花蓮石門海蝕洞), where we stayed for about 30 minutes enjoying the silence before returning to the road. It was a good rest, and Ylenia (my girlfriend) took the opportunity to read a bit.
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The next destination was clear: the last 7-Eleven we would find until reaching Hualien. The last part of the way was somewhat complicated due to the monotony of the road, and the heat wore us down, although it wasn't a long distance. We arrived at 7-Eleven at 13:00, where we took a break. We ate, charged our phones and the camera, which were already low on battery, and decided what to do next.
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With the batteries full—both technological and physical—we considered the next steps. We made the decision to walk 6 km more to a small village that had a school called "Xinshe," with the idea of asking if we could camp there. At 15:00, we set off. There wasn't much to see during this stretch, just road and some small temples at the edge of the path.
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Finally, we arrived at the village of "Xinshe" around 16:20 and entered the school to ask if we could stay to camp. Luckily, one of the teachers spoke English, which made communication much easier. We explained that we only needed to stay one night and that we would leave at 6:00 in the morning. The principal approved our request, and that's where we camped that night, enjoying a safe and quiet place to rest. We took the opportunity to use the tripod we had in our backpack (which was quite heavy, about 2 kg) to try to take photos of the stars and play around a bit.

With relief, we set up the tent in the schoolyard. It was a simple closure for a long day: fresh air and the feeling that, little by little, we were getting closer to our final destination.

Day Summary:
  • Start: Shitping
  • End: Xinshe
  • Distance walked: 24.8 km
  • Total distance: 129.7 km
  • Expenses (per person):
    • Food: 260 Taiwan dollars (€7.50)
    • Coffee: 40 Taiwan dollars (€1.00)

Daily Reflection:
Today was a day of a lot of roads, but also full of small moments that made the trip special. From the views at sunrise to the surprise of finding a place to camp at a school, each step was a new experience.

Day 6: Unforgettable School Encounter and Walking Through Mountains and Tunnels
The day began early, at 5:30 in the morning, when the children were already getting ready for school at 7:00. We decided to take advantage of that hour to prepare ourselves and make sure everything was in order before the hustle and bustle of the day began. We quickly took down our tent so as not to cause problems and, while the children were getting ready, we went out in search of something for breakfast.
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And what a surprise we had! Right in front of the school, there was a small breakfast place where we met the children, who were preparing to start their classes. We joined them, and they immediately began to ask us about our trip. Between laughs and translator, we shared a pleasant time. One of the boys, especially curious, wouldn't stop talking to us and, before they all headed to class, invited us to follow them. He told us we could see what the classes were like, and of course, we weren't going to miss the opportunity!
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When we arrived at the school, the children were in the middle of recess. Then, the same boy who had invited us guided us inside to show how they grew rice. Incredible! They themselves planted the shoots in small pots before transferring them to the field. We talked with the teacher, who explained the process with great passion. It was then that the boy surprised us by saying he knew how to play percussion. (I'm a drummer, although I haven't played for many years, the passion remains intact.) We didn't hesitate! We took out some bongos, and in a matter of minutes, the whole group of children joined to play together. A true moment of connection!
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But as everything in life has its limit, the teacher reminded us that it was time to go back to class and that the children had to clean the school. Before leaving, the same boy who had guided us said something that stuck in my head: "Don't forget me, I won't forget you." It was a brief encounter, but so genuine that it really marked us.
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With a happy heart, we decided to continue our walk, which had already begun at 8:00 in the morning. Along the way, we encountered several challenges: like the first stop at a skywalk that was closed. A small setback! So, we had to cross a 500-meter tunnel, but we did it calmly, illuminated by our front and rear lights so that the cars could see us.
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After about 2 more kilometres, we reached our next stop: a short 15-minute trek called "Dashibishan" (大石鼻山步道|龜庵山步道) up a mountain. We left our backpacks under the watchful eye of nothing (that is, at the entrance to the trek on the street without any supervision) and climbed the mountain, enjoying a well-deserved rest at the top. We took photos, recorded videos, and enjoyed the landscape while the sun began to warm the day.
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It was already noon, and we were hungry, so we decided to stop at a restaurant halfway through. We climbed a hill 200 meters high, but upon arrival, it was closed! We didn't give up and continued 500 meters more to a viewpoint called "Pachi rest area" with a small shop. There we found rice in bamboo, a typical dish, and although there weren't many vegetarian options, we managed. The sticky rice in bamboo was a hit.
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After regaining strength, we continued our walk, knowing that there was still an hour of the route left. The good thing was that we had descended a bit in altitude, and the slope was no longer so steep. However, fatigue was beginning to be noticeable, and the walk was becoming more difficult with each step. Music became our companion to distract us as we continued to advance, by inertia.
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Finally, we arrived at a small village called "Shueilian," and since staying in schools had worked well for us, we headed straight there. We asked if we could stay, and to our surprise, the principal gave us the go-ahead. They told us that the next day was even a national holiday, so the children wouldn't have classes. Perfect for resting!
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We set up our tent in the schoolyard and, although the village seemed somewhat deserted, we found a small supermarket where we bought something for dinner: instant noodles and some snacks. At that point in the day, we were exhausted but happy with what we had experienced. We had dinner under the stars and prepared for a well-deserved rest, knowing that another day of adventure awaited us the next day.
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Day Summary:
  • Start: Xinshe
  • End: Shueilian
  • Distance walked: 27.0 km
  • Total distance: 156.7 km
  • Expenses (per person):
    • Food: 335 Taiwan dollars (€9.50)
    • Snacks: 50 Taiwan dollars (€1.50)

Daily Reflections:
  • Never underestimate the power of a shared breakfast to connect with locals.
  • Sometimes, unforeseen events, like a closed tunnel or a closed restaurant, only give us new opportunities to discover unexpected places.
  • Children can teach us more about life than we imagine: their curiosity and generosity really touched our hearts.

Day 7: Hiking Along the East Coast, Between Tunnels and Temples
We woke up early at 6:30 AM, but with a sense of calm. Today was special: it was a national holiday in Taiwan, so the children had no school. We took advantage of not being in a hurry, as our hike would be lighter, about 15 km along the coast (or so we thought), and today would be our last stop before reaching Hualien Station.
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We calmly dismantled our tent and headed to a small breakfast place in the village. The menu wasn't different from yesterdays, but we didn't mind. We sat down to enjoy some omelettes, chocolate sandwiches, and another with peanut butter, accompanied by cold coffee we bought at the store next door. The peaceful atmosphere of the village made us enjoy those first moments of the day even more.
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Once ready, we decided to change the original route a bit and opt for the east coast instead of crossing the mountain. Although theoretically it would be less demanding, we didn't know what awaited us. The tunnels, with their 500-meter length, were our first test of the day. With lights turned on our backpacks, we walked cautiously, and although some cars passed at high speed, we felt relatively safe.
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When we emerged from the tunnels, the ocean view accompanied us for much of the journey. The coastal walk was impressive, but the sun, with its suffocating heat of about 25°C, made it challenging to maintain our pace. Each step with the backpack felt heavier, and the heat became overwhelming. We had to walk for another hour before finding a shaded spot where we finally rested and drank water. We stopped there for half an hour, recovering energy before continuing.
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A few kilometres later, we found a 7-Eleven. Who can resist a refreshing juice in the middle of the heat? We drank it as if it were water—it gave us a breath of fresh air! We continued our way and, after a while, arrived at a temple called "Henan Temple," where we took a short break. We caught our breath, enjoyed the temple's peaceful atmosphere, and took the opportunity to use the bathroom.
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Already with some accumulated fatigue, we reached the "Hualien Visitor Center," where we planned to ask about possible camping sites. But as often happens on adventures, the center was closed for repairs. Without hesitation, we walked another 500 meters, but the place where we planned to eat was also closed. We decided to keep looking until we reached an area with few restaurants, where we ended up eating at a café. For a rather high price (540 Taiwanese dollars, about €15), they served us toast with egg and tuna, french fries, and a mango shake. Although it wasn't the most spectacular meal, it was a necessary respite, and we also took the opportunity to charge our phones.
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For those planning a similar journey along Taiwan's east coast, we found that having a reliable travel guide for Taiwan really helps navigate these unexpected situations. Our experience has shown that flexibility is key when traveling through Taiwan, especially in more remote areas.
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We were already exhausted from the heat and fatigue of the day, but the adventure didn't end there. After a rest period, we decided to continue our search for a place to camp. We headed toward a temple in front of the bridge we planned to cross the next day to reach Hualien, but upon arrival, they told us they closed at 5:00 PM, so we couldn't stay there.

It was then that, about 5 minutes' walk away, we discovered a small lookout on the roadside. It was a quiet, hidden place with little traffic and a small green space that seemed perfect for setting up the tent. However, we needed to make sure we could camp there. My girlfriend went to ask some workers and a police officer, but they didn't understand our questions well. The police officer even told us he came from the other side and didn't know about this side—incredible! After a moment of doubt, we decided to cross the bridge to the other side, where, luckily, we found a park right next door. Although we weren't sure if the terrain was suitable for camping, we decided to risk it. And it turned out to be the perfect spot!
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The park had grass, was empty, and the views were incredible. After so much walking, we finally had a place to rest. We divided tasks: while I set up the tent, my girlfriend went to buy some food for dinner and breakfast the next day. We ended up buying bread, cheese, and water. Night fell quickly, and we prepared for the last leg of our adventure the next day: only 8 km left to reach Hualien station.
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With the tent set up and the day ending, we got into our sleeping bags around 8:30 PM. Although tired, we knew that the final stretch awaited us the next day. And with that, we closed another day full of unexpected moments and landscapes that will remain etched in our memory.

Day Summary:
  • Start: Shueilian
  • End: Hualien
  • Distance walked: 27.3 KM
  • Total distance walked: 184.0 KM
  • Expenses (per person):
    • Food: 410 Taiwanese Dollars (€11.50)
    • Snacks + coffee: 140 Taiwanese Dollars (€4.00)

Reflections of the Day:
  • Sometimes, the sun and heat can be great adversaries, but small stops in cool places make all the difference.
  • Each temple we found along the way offered us a respite, not only physical but also spiritual, to keep going.
  • The uncertainty of not knowing if we would find the perfect place to camp became a small challenge that we successfully overcame, which makes each day even more rewarding.

Day 8: The Final Push to Hualien Station
The last day of our hike had arrived, and we woke up at 5:30 AM, excited to know that we only had 8 km left to reach Hualien station, the final goal of this leg of our adventure. We had calculated that it would take us about 2 hours, 2 and a half hours, to get there, so we dismantled the tent calmly and decided to have breakfast in the park where we had spent the night. We treated ourselves to a fluffy cake and coffee to start the day right. By 6:30 AM, we were ready to start walking.
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Our first objective was to find a bathroom. Although the park was quiet, there were no facilities, so we looked for one at a nearby gas station. After that small stop, with the first rays of sun welcoming us, we delved into what remained of the path. At first, the city welcomed us with its more industrial face, but little by little, we began to see more life and businesses.

As we advanced, the coast was no longer as visible, but we came across a temple on the left side and, a little further ahead, a small park on the right. At that moment, we realized we were only an hour, an hour and fifteen minutes, from the city center—the goal was closer than ever!
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Suddenly, while crossing a street, we saw a giant colourful sign with the word "Hualien," and we felt a sense of relief and excitement at the same time. We were already in the city! We took a couple of photos and videos to celebrate the moment, knowing that the end was just around the corner.
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We continued walking through a typical pedestrian street, where we could see some samples of the aboriginal culture of the area. On the other side, a market with fruits, vegetables, meat, and fish offered us an explosion of colours and smells that invited us to keep exploring. We bought some oranges, which we already needed, and continued our way.
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After walking through streets full of lanterns and decorations, we continued along the main road for about 40 more minutes, enjoying the urban environment that contrasted with the natural landscapes we had traversed. Finally, we reached Hualien train station at 9:15 AM, just in time for our 10:00 AM train to Taipei.
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When we stepped into the station, we couldn't believe it: we had walked 200 km from Dulan! It was a mixture of relief and satisfaction; we had finally achieved our goal. With a smile on our faces and bodies tired but happy, we knew it was time to rest. The challenge was completed, and now it was time to enjoy the reward: to stop walking for a while.
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If you're considering backpacking in Taiwan, our experience shows it's not only feasible but incredibly rewarding. The island offers a perfect mix of accessible nature trails, friendly locals, and modern conveniences that make long-distance hiking both challenging and comfortable.


Day Summary:
  • Start: Hualien
  • End: Hualien Station
  • Distance walked: 16.4 KM
  • Total distance walked: 200.4 KM
  • Expenses (per person):
    • Snacks + water: 40 Taiwanese Dollars (€1.00)

Reflections of the Day:
  • Although the road was long and sometimes tiring, reaching the goal was much more than just a physical destination; it was a personal achievement that reminded us that every effort has its reward.
  • The city of Hualien, with its mix of modernity and tradition, welcomed us with open arms, but the best was that moment of stillness at the station, knowing that the journey had been worth it.

Journey Summary:
  • Start: Dulan
  • End: Hualien Station
  • Total distance walked: 200.4 KM
  • Expenses (per person):
    • Public transport: 500 Taiwanese Dollars (€14.50)
    • Food + snacks + coffee: 2,550 Taiwanese Dollars (€71.00)
    • Total: 3,050 Taiwanese Dollars (€85.50)
    • Total per day: 380 Taiwanese Dollars (€10.60)

Additional expenses (per person):
  • Tent: 2,100 Taiwanese Dollars (€58.00) – ATUNAS A1TEDD01
  • Sleeping bag: 990 Taiwanese Dollars (€28.00) – Outdoor Base OB22710
  • Sleeping pads: 400 Taiwanese Dollars (€11.00) – ARPENAZ M200 – European version
  • Clothing: 1,200 Taiwanese Dollars (€33.00) – LOTTO LT1AWO3816
  • Miscellaneous: 300 Taiwanese Dollars (€8.00)
  • Total: 4,990 Taiwanese Dollars (€138.00)
  • Total per day: 624 Taiwanese Dollars (€17.50)
Total expenses (per person): 8,040 Taiwanese Dollars (€224.00)
Total expenses (per person per day): 1,005 Taiwanese Dollars (€28.00)


This guest post was written by the team at Tu Copiloto Nómada, specialists in helping travellers explore Asia and beyond with practical advice and first-hand experiences
3 Comments
Ylenia Colanzi
4/16/2025 10:01:06 pm

Amazing experience, I wish I could read more articles like this

Reply
Ylenia Colanzi
4/16/2025 10:01:38 pm

Amazing experience! I wish I could read more posts like this one

Reply
Brano
4/18/2025 06:41:49 pm

Excellent read! Well done guys!!!. Glad to see backpacking is not dead yet.

Reply

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     Author 作家

    I am an American expat who has extensive experience living, working, and traveling in Taiwan. In my day, I had to learn many things about Taiwan the hard way. But I have come to learn that Taiwan is one of the best places in the world for Foreigners to live. ​This blog does not represent the opinions of every foreigner in Taiwan. I am just trying to help others learn more about this beautiful country.
    -Larry


    我來自美國, 我對台灣生活、工作和旅行有很豐富的經驗。我曾須艱辛地學習許多有關台灣的事情。但我已經了解到,台灣是世界上最適合外國人居住的地方之一。這個部落格不代表台灣每個外國人的意見。我只是想幫助其他人了解更多關於這個美麗的國家。
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    Klook.com

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Planning your trip to Taiwan?

Here are some top travel tips for you:

  • Best time to visit: Spring and Autumn when it is not too hot or cold and less rainy
  • How to get there: Plane tickets via Trip.com
  • Best places to stay can be found on Agoda
  • Book tours and activities in Taiwan on Klook
  • Stay connected with a local SIM
  • Rent a car to explore distant sights

Looking for a hotel? Find out where to stay in our Taiwan hotels guide or search for the best hotel deals in Taiwan here.

If you are looking for car rentals, you can also search Qeeq here, Klook here, or  KKday here. You can also check out our car rental guide here.  
You can also check out our scooter rental guide here.