The Old City of Fengshan in Zuoying is the oldest walled city on the island of Taiwan. It has survived rebellions, raids, and changes of power, and now stands as a well preserved monument to the past, from when the Qing Dynasty ruled western Taiwan. It is definitley worth a visit on your trip to Kaohsiung.
Historical Background: After the capture of Taiwan by the Qing Dynasty, they quickly set up a settlement in Zuoying in 1684 because of its strategic location between hills and mountains. The walls of the Old City of Fengshan first started as earthen walls wiht a moat in 1721. Before this, the construction of city walls was forbidden by the Qing government to prevent rebellions, but after a rebellion by Chu Yi-kuei (朱一貴) in which he ruined the government buildings there with no protection, the Qing allowed walls to be built. The uprising by 17 year old Zhu Yigui was successful in exiling the provincial government out of Taiwan after heavy taxation and a bad earthquake had left the people destitute. The Qing took back the capital of Tainan about a month later and Zhu Yigui was executed. In 1787 another rebellion by Lin shuang-wen (林爽文) ruined the city, and afterward the local government relocated to the current Fengshan district of Kaohsiung and created a new Fengshan City. However the government was still attacked continuously. In 1826, the government rebuilt the Old Fengshan City walls and improved them, building them with concrete and granite stone, and at the time it was the most advanced city wall in Taiwan. However the city remained mainly unused because it was considered unlucky. During the Japanese Era of Taiwan, the Japanese made Zuoying a naval port and changed the area into a military zone. Zuoying continued as a military zone during the ROC era, but the old walled city of Fengshan was designated as a national monument. Major renovations of the walls and gates occured in 1991 and renovations are still ongoing. Originally there were four gates: the North (also Gongcheng Gate 拱辰門), South (Ciwen Gate 啟文門), East (Fongyi Gate 鳳儀門), and West Gate (Dianhai Gate 奠海門, no longer exists). Hours: 24/7 Price: Free How to Get There: By Car/Scooter: From central Kaohsiung, go north on provincial highway 17 and then turn north on Xinzhuang 1st Road. Looking for scooter rental in Kaohsiung? You can check out Klook here or KKday here to search for options. You can check also out our scooter rental guide here. If you are looking for car rentals, you can search Qeeq here, KKday here, or Klook here. You can also check out our car rental guide here. By Train: From the north you can walk to the pond from Zuoying HSR station, or from the south you can walk there from Zuoying Jiucheng TRA Station. You can book tickets to travel to Kaohsiung via inter-city bus on Klook here. You can book tickets to Kaohsiung via high speed rail (HSR) on Klook here or KKDay here. Book tickets via the normal train (TRA) on Klook here. You can also book a Kaohsiung Travel pass here. Accommodation We have stayed at and recommend Chao She Hotel (you can book on Agoda here, Booking.com here, Hotels.com here, or Expedia here) IHI Sanduo Travel Hotel (you can book on Agoda here, Booking.com here, Hotels.com here, or Expedia here), and Mingli Hotel (you can book on Agoda here, Klook here, or Hotels.com here) which are three inexpensive and high quality choices in downtown Kaohsiung. I also have stayed at and recommend Kaohsiung Meinong Rabbit Paul Homestay B&B (you can book on Agoda here, Booking.com here, or Trip.com here), a quiet B&B in rural Meinong, and Chengching Lakeside Resort (you can book on Agoda here, Booking.com or Trip.com here)and the Grand Hotel Kaohsiung (you can book on Agoda here, Booking.com here, Hotels.com here, or Expedia here) which both offer breakfast buffet and free entrance into Chenqing Lake Park. I have also stayed at the 85 sky tower which offers great views of the city; you can search for rooms in the 85 sky tower on Agoda here, Booking.com here, Hotels.com here, Expedia here, or Trip.com here). Find out more about where to stay in our Taiwan hotels guide or search for the best hotel deals in Taiwan here. We recommend booking through Agoda here, which provides the best quality selection of accommodation on the islands. You can also book Wifi and SIM cards for Taiwan on Gigago here. Need travel insurance? Compare prices on Insubuy here. Tours: You can book water sport activities at the Lotus Pond such as wake boarding, water skiing, SUP paddle boarding, and more on Klook here or KKday here. Just to let you know, if you book using the links above, we get some commission at no cost to you, and you can help support our blog. You can click here to receive $5 USD on your first Klook purchase. Map: Please see the existing city gates marked with red castle icons below: Our Journey: I have visited Zuoying countless times, and I have always been interested in the old city. I took some time on two trips to Kaohsiung to capture the old monuments here. Zhenfu Temple 鎮福社
The Zhenfu Temple is a temple to the Earth God that was completed by at least 1736 or earlier, perhaps predating the Qing dynasty (according to legend). It's a small temple that lies right in front of the north gate of the old city. It was the center of an important market area at the time. The temple was destroyed during allied bombing raids in WW2 and rebuilt again in 1949, and renovated in 1987.
Remnants of the East Wall Near Lotus Lake 蓮池潭舊東邊城遺址
Underneath Turtle Mountain you can find remnants of the old wall. The wall originally encircled Turtle Mountain and continued on to the north gate.
Check out more photos of the area in the photo gallery above. Gongchen Well 拱辰井
The Gongchen well is said to be built around 1722 at the same time as the earthen city walls. In the past, this area was an important marketplace and people gathered from nearby to fetch water here. The well was hit by a car in 1986 but was later repaired.
The actual well is underneath the road and covered with a man hole cover on the pedestrain crosswalk. North Gate 北門 (also Gongchen Gate 拱辰門)
The North Gate (Gongchen Gate) sits right in front of the Zhenfu Temple and Gongchen Well. There are two door gods inscribed on either side Shenshu (神荼) and Yulü (鬱壘). Cars and scooters can still pass under the gate.
Check out more photos of the area in the photo gallery above. East Gate 東門 (Fongyi Gate 鳳儀門)
The East Gate or Fongyi Gate was under renovation when I visited. The renovations should be long over. This is the best place to experience the old city of Fengshan. There is a moat here and a very long secton of preserved all.
East Wall 東城
You should be able to walk along the Eastern Wall and enjoy the moat here. The wall extends for many hundreds of meters. At night the wall lights up too.
South Gate 南門 (Ciwen Gate 啟文門)
The South Gate (Ciwun Gate) sits in the middle of a roundabout of Gushan Road and Zhonghua Road. There is a stairway to the top that you can climb to and enjoy the view.
Check out more photos of the area in the photo gallery above. West Gate 西門 (Dianhai Gate 奠海門)
The West Gate (Dahai Gate) no longer exists, but its foundation is under preservation. It was destroyed during the Japanese era at some time. Currently the area is off limits but I was able to snap these photos by reaching over the fence.
Check out more photos of the area in the photo gallery above. If you could somehow get past the fence, there is a bulldozed dependents village called Chongshi New Village "崇實新村" built by the KMT and bulldozed recently. The village was built around the remnants of the old western wall of the city, which still exist there. There is also an old battery on the west wall that is still there. You can see these still with Google street view. Old Fengshan City Confucius Temple Chongsheng Shrine 鳳山舊城孔子廟崇聖
The Old Fengshan City Confucius Temple Chongsheng Shrine in Zuoying, Kaohisung dates back to the 17th centruy and is the second oldest Confucious Temple in Taiwan. The temple has survived typhoons, revolts, and allied air raids. Now only a part of it sits in the middle of an elementary school yard. For our full blog on this site, click here.
Lotus Pond 蓮池潭
While you are visiting the old city, you also need to visit the Lotus Pond, one of the most beautiful scenic areas in Taiwan. Much of the lake is full of traditional Chinese temples, gardens, and architecture. Because of its size, it cannot be properly appreciated by only going there for one afternoon; there are simply too many things to see and do there. Click here for our full blog on the area.
You can book water sport activities at the Lotus Pond such as wake boarding, water skiing, SUP paddle boarding, and more on Klook here or KKday here. You can check out our full travel guide to Kaohsiung here. You can also check out our full travel guide to Taiwan here.
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Author 作家I am an American expat who has extensive experience living, working, and traveling in Taiwan. In my day, I had to learn many things about Taiwan the hard way. But I have come to learn that Taiwan is one of the best places in the world for Foreigners to live. This blog does not represent the opinions of every foreigner in Taiwan. I am just trying to help others learn more about this beautiful country. Categories
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