How do you renovate a house in Taiwan? With lots and lots of money. Blog over.
Just kidding. It is much more complex than that, and you will have to put in a lot of time, effort, planning, and decision making on your part. In this post, I will share with you in detail my personal experience renovating an old apartment in Taiwan for your reference. Hopefully this will be helpful to someone considering buying an old house or doing renovations themselves as a foreigner in Taiwan.
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Academia Sinica's Museum of History and Philology is one of the best museums in Taiwan. It has the largest collection of Chinese oracle bone remains in the world. It is also free, usually devoid of people, and has some of the most amazing ancient artifacts from Taiwan and China. It is like a mini National Palace Museum, and is worth a visit on your trip to Taipei.
Background: The museum first began in 1933, just after the Institute of History and Philology was created in 1928 in Beijing. After 1949, the museum was moved to Taiwan as part of the ROC retreat to Taiwan. In 1965 the museum did merge with the National Palace Museum, and was reopened in 1986 when the museum building at Academia Sinica was completed. The building also underwent renovations from 1997-2002. Much of the collection comes from when the institute was located in China, and includes thousands of pieces from prehistoric times, as well as the Shang, Chou, and Han Dynasties. Website: http://museum.sinica.edu.tw/en/visit/ Hours: Wednesday, Saturday, and Sunday from 9:30 AM to 4:30 PM Price: Free! Temperature: The museum is kept at a cool 20 degrees Celsius, so dress accordingly. How to get there: By car/scooter: There is paid car parking at Academia Sinica, and scooters must park outside. By MRT/Bus: Take the blue MRT line to Nangang Exhibition Hall station, then transfer to any number of busses from exit 5 to Academia Sinica. Map: Please see below:
Hualien's old railway pedestrian area in the middle of the city has taken a 1.8 km old railway line and transformed into a pedestrian shopping district, much like an old street or night market. It is a worth while stroll on your next visit to Hualien.
Background: The original Hualien Train station was built over the current Dongdamen Night Market, however the railway was diverted in 1979, leaving the old railway left to rust. The old railway left is 1.8 km long and 6 m wide. In 2003, a plan was put in place to renovate the old railway into a pedestrian shopping area. Price: Free Hours: 24/7 How to get there: By Car/Scooter: The night market lies on the central eastern part of the city along Chungshan Road and Chongching Road. There is free car parking inside and free scooter parking too. By Train: From Hualien TRA station, take bus 301, or walk about 30 minutes. Map: Please see below:
Hexing Coal Mine in Xinyi District of Taipei is a refurbished coal mining tunnel that has been opened to the public. is a great place to get familiar with the extinct coal mine industry in Taiwan that is close to Taipei's city center.
History of Coal Mining in Taiwan: Before I show you my adventure, I’d like to give a background of the coal mining industry in Taiwan. If you aren’t interested, you can just skip this section. Coal mining in Taiwan started during the Dutch rule, starting in Keelung and Tamsui. The Dutch started mines there, but didn’t have sufficient transportation infrastructure to move large amounts of coal. The Koxinga era didn’t see much coal mining. After the Qing dynasty took back Taiwan following Koxinga and his son’s death, the government strictly banned mining of any kind in order to restrict the people from hiding in the mountains and starting rebellions. Despite this, coal was still mined and sold in on the black market in Taiwan. During and after the Opium wars, many English and Americans scouted Taiwan for possible coal deposits. In 1864, despite the ban on coal mining, there was at least 4315 tons of coal exported out of Taiwan. Pressure from western countries to open ports in Asia that had water and coal available to power steam ships forced the Qing government to finally allow legal coal mining in 1870. After the ban was lifted, the size of coal mining operations was still very small. In 1874, due to Japanese influence, Liu Mingchuan convinced Beijing to allow advanced mining machinery in Taiwan, starting in Baodouzi, Keelung, and new mines were started under government control. During this time, many miners died due to poor and unsanitary working conditions and the fact that the government officials running the mines were inexperienced and did not run effective operations. During this time, infrastructure and railways were lacking in Taiwan, halting transportation of coal. By 1892 after the Sino-French war, government owned mines were closed and the industry became privatized. In 1895, Taiwan produced more than 10,000 tons of coal. By this time, Liu Mingchuan had constructed the Keelung-Xinxhu railway, helping alleviate the coal transportation problem. In 1895 Japan took control of Taiwan and Penghu as a result of the Sino-Japanese war, and began to survey the forests and geography to maximize capitalist gains for the empire. Coal would be an important part in industrializing the Empire, as it was the major fuel source at the time. In 1896 Japan opened the coal mining industry to the public, and the next year the price of coal doubled, as demand increased. But as local know how and technology was lacking, imported coal from Japan was actually cheaper than producing it in Taiwan. However in 1906 the coal industry in Taiwan gradually improved. New mining machinery moved to Tianliao, Keelung to support Japan’s Naval fleet. Sugar factories in southern Taiwan also needed a constant supply of coal. During the First World War, the Empire of Japan became an important supplier of coal to western countries fighting in the war, and Taiwan’s coal exports gradually increased. In 1917-1918, Japan opened 194 new coal mines in Taiwan. They also built the Pingxi Railway which became the most productive site for coal mining, in its heyday producing 220,000 tons of coal per year. (The Taiwan coal mine museum now lays here, along withHoutong cat village). However, after World War I ended, the demand for coal declined, many mines closed, and there was widespread overproduction. But as industrialization continued in Taiwan, so did the demand for coal. To keep production going constantly, Japan provided subsidies to coal mines. At the start of the second Sino-Japanese war, demand for coal rose dramatically, as did the price of coal. But also due to losses of manpower during the war, coal production saw a huge drop. In 1945 Japan lost the war and Taiwan and Penghu were given back to China. Not long after this, the remaining government owned mines were transformed into the Taiwan mining company, but by then mining had all but stopped. However by 1949 after the KMT retreated to Taiwan, Taiwan became an important economic partner with America, and coal production began to soar to 1,650,000 tons of coal in 1951, mainly to fuel Taiwan’s coal power plants and other large industries. With economic support from the USA, new mines started opening. In 1960 Taiwan produced 4 million tons of coal. Due to demand and the free market, coal mines gradually started closing and production went down, until by 1964 Taiwan produced only 2.8 million tons of coal. In 1969 Taiwan Power started using gas power plants which were cheaper than coal, lowering demand. By 1977 Taiwan had produced only 2 million tons of coal. During this time, Taiwan also improved safety regulations for coal mines, but accidents still kept happening, forcing the government to close quite a few mines. Here is a list of mining incidents in Taiwan. The lone survivor of one1984 mining incident that killed 93 people survived by cannibalism and drinking pee over a period of 90 hours inside the mine. He later said that if he had to do it all over again, he would still have eaten his coworkers. Local coal soon became more costly to mine than just importing it. In the year 2000, Sanxia’s Lifeng Mine shut down operations, and Taiwan’s mining company closed, and thus all coal mining in Taiwan effectively stopped. History of Xinfeng Coal Mine: Xinfeng Coal Mine was one of many mines around Taipei, as there are many coal seams in the mountains of northern Taiwan. Once the coal mining industry shut down in the late 1990's, this mine shut down too and was left abandoned for a number of years until the area was restored by Taipei City in about 2005. Now it is a well kept tourist attraction, where one can enjoy the history of the mine as well as the natural scenery nearby. Hours: 9 AM to 5 PM every day Price: Free How to get there: by scooter/car: by MRT/bus: Map: See below:
Baiyang Falls are a beautiful set of waterfalls in Taroko National Park. The trail is only 2 KM long and is flat and paved with no steps. It is an easy and relaxing way to enjoy some of the best scenery in the park.
Background: Taroko National Park is well known for its marble cliffs and canyons, and is also known as "The Marble Gorge." Millions of years ago, the rock we see today was sediment at the bottom of the Pacific Ocean, but oceanic and tectonic pressure turned it into limestone, and later into marble. Later the Eurasian plate was uplifted where Taiwan is today, and a gorge was cut out of the limestone thanks to the Liwu River. Taroko means "human being," from the Truku tribal language. Originally the Tupido Tribe settled in the area of what is now Tianxiang Taiti mesa. They built the Tupido Tribe Trail which was only 30 cm wide, and resided there until they were massacred by the Japanese in 1914. In 1917, the Japanese expanded the original trail made by the Tupido Tribe to 1.5 M and forced aboriginal tribesmen to carry goods along the trail to the east coast. This is now the Zhuilu Old Trail. Currently only 3km of the trail is open to the public. The Japanese created a national park in the Area in 1937, which was disestablished by the ROC in 1945, and then reinstated in as a national park in 1986. The road to Baiyang Waterfall was created by the Taipower Company in an effort to build a hydropower reservoir in Taroko Gorge. However the project was not completed, to protect the natural scenery in the area. The roads and tunnels left over from the project now make up the current trail, to what would normally be an arduous hike through impossible terrain. Baiyang Waterfall is 220 meters high, and the highest waterfall in Taiwan to fall off one sheer cliff. How to get there: By Car: From Taipei, Take National Highway 5 to Yilan and then drive on the Suhua Highway 9 to Hualien. A few miles before Hualien City, the gorge will be on your right. Keeping going until you reach the Baiyang Waterfall hike about 20 KM up the road. By Train: Take the train to Hualien station, and from there you can rent a scooter or car, or take a tour bus to the gorge, and get off at Baiyang Waterfall station. For more travel information see here. Hours: 24/7 Map: Please see below:
Wuling Farm is a recreational farm in the mountains of Taichung, Taiwan. It is one of the only places that you can spot the endangered Formosan Landlocked Salmon in the wild, and includes flowers, fruit trees, tea plantations, cherry blossoms, hikes, camping, waterfalls, and wildlife to enjoy. It is a great place to experience Taiwan's high mountain ecology.
Background: Originally the Qijia Valley where Wuling Farm sits was home to seven families of the Ayatal Tribe, and aboriginal peoples lived here starting over 4,000 years ago. The aboringal people were relocated to Sqoyaw Village in the 1950s. Wuling Farm was established in 1963 as a way to provide a living for retired KMT veterans. The farm's original purpose was to plant temperate fruit trees and vegetables. Starting in 1989, the farm began tourist acticites, such as building a campground, tea houses, gardens, hotels, and a tourist service center. The farm sits at about 2000 meters above sea level (6,561 feet). Website: https://lang.wuling-farm.com.tw/lang/index.php Price: 160 NT per person to enter 50 NT for cars 10 NT for scooters Accommodation: We recommend staying overnight because you will likely have to travel a long time to get here (4 hours from Taipei), and staying overnight lets you maximize your time here. You can book online for one of the following accommodation options: Wuling National Hostel (2,000 NT - 8,000 NTD per night) Wuling Hoya Resort (6,000 - 15,000 NTD per night) Wuling Campground (1,000 - 2200 NTD per night) Hours: 24/7 When to go: A popular time to go is in March-April when there are cherry blossoms. Also, it can get very cold in the winter. How to get there: By Car/Scooter: It is actually faster to travel to Wuling Farm from Taipei instead of downtown Taichung, even though technically the farm is in Taichung City. From Yilan, take provincial highway 7 through Datong Township and up the mountain until you reach Wuling Farm. By Bus: Taiwan Tour Bus and Lion Travel have busses that leave from Taipei and arrive 4 hours later. Map: Please see below:
The Yuanshan Grand Hotel is one of the tallest traditional Chinese buildings in the world, and was the tallest building in Taiwan for nearly a decade. It also features multiple restaurants, a swimming pool, all day buffet, shops, and secret underground tunnels, slides, and bunkers. It is a major landmark in Taipei and definitely worth a visit even if you do not plan to spend the night there.
Background: After the ROC government moved to Taiwan in 1949, there was no decent hotel for international travelers and foreign dignitaries, so Chiang Kai-shek planned the Yuanshan Grand Hotel, which was established in 1952. The swimming pool and other buildings were completed in 1953 and 1956, and the main hotel building was completed in 1973. Originally the land where the hotel stands was a Shinto shrine called the Taiwan Grand Shrine, left over from the Japanese Era. In 1995 a fire hit the top floors, and repairs were not completed until 1998, Numerous foreign dignitaries including US presidents have stayed at the hotel. Hours: 24/7 (it's a hotel) Price: Free to walk inside the lobby. Rooms vary from about 3000 NT to 500,000 NT per night. Website: https://www.grand-hotel.org/EN/official/about.aspx?gh=TP Tour times: Every day at 11 AM and 2 PM (check with the front desk to make sure) The tour is 200 NT per person How to get there: By Car/Scooter: The Yuanshan Hotel is a big square building in Taipei near Shilin and Neihu on the Keelung River. You have to take a roundabout road up to the hotel which can be confusing, it may take you two passes to make it into the parking lot. By bus: There is a free shuttle bus from MRT Yuanshan Station. Map: Please see below:
Emerald Valley is a popular river tracing spot near in Xiulin Township of Hualien County. It is also home to the Emerald Valley Old Trail, a trail used by Taroko Aborigines and Japanese to connect to Taiwan's central mountain range. The Dam, tunnel, and suspension bridge here are all remnants from the Japanese era.
Background: Emerald Valley Old Trail dates back to over 200 years ago and was used by the Taroko tribe to travel deep into the Taiwan's central mountain range, along the Mugua river. During the Japanese control of Taiwan after 1895, the Japanese built a bridge, tunnel, and waterworks here and mined copper, and set up an artillery shelter, among other things. The area has been basically untouched since the Japanese era, and now a popular hiking trail connects the tunnels to the made made waterfall and river tracing valley beyond. Hours: 24/7 Price: Free How to get there: By car/scooter: Take provincial highway 9 southeast until you reach the Tongmen bridge and keep going. There is free parking on the side of the road. By bus: Take bus 1131A or 1131 from Hualien about an hour to Tongmen Village. Map: Please see below: |
Author 作家We are US Expats that have extensive experience living, working, and travelling in Taiwan. In our day, we had to learn many things about Taiwan the hard way. But we have come to learn that Taiwan is one of the best places in the world for Foreigners to live. Our blog does not represent the opinions of every foreigner in Taiwan. We are just trying to help others learn more about this beautiful country. Archives 檔案
May 2023
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