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Now that I have finished blogs about Maolin Village, Wanshan Village, Duona Suspension Bridge, and Duona Village (click the links to see each individual blog), I would like to finish this Maolin blog series by sharing a piece of writing I wrote for a class in college after just getting back from a trip to Taiwan in 2013, a time when I was especially missing Maolin. I hope this post does justice to the place I love most in Taiwan.
Ode to Maolin 茂林之頌: The walls of my room are closing in on me, closer, closer, crushing down. The window disappears. Then the door bursts open, a storm of nothing but boulders hit my skull one after another like baseballs at the batting cages. The room collapses onto my paper body. BANG! BANG! The ceiling crushes me into a paper ball, in the darkness. A board with nails terrorizes my head, I can't pull it out of my skull, and the nails sink in. Poison in my brain. Have to work to eat tons of homework on me so that one day decent job and buy things for me and pay for their college and my retirement swimming pool up with the jones’ car second house but crappy major. I feel my stone necklace that shines bright and silver in the darkness; it reminds me of a better place. 
The soothing rays of sun glitter down on my face and stomach, warming the thin layer of mud all over my body. The mud is cocooning me, forming a thin dirt shell, but my skin rejoices in a moist layer below the slowly drying mud. My fingers and toes twitch in the super fine mud-silt below, nothing but the softest substance possible in the human experience. A cold whiff of the crisp minty mountain air flows through my nostrils, then a deep breath escapes my lungs. My tongue tastes a silvery sweet bit of silt on my lips. The sound of the rushing river nearby relaxes my eardrums, and then they are offended by the slop of a hand. My eyes feather open to see the aboriginal boy next to me shift his hand in the chocolate mud. I think back to how I ever got there.
Riding on the back of a scooter is no massage therapy; with the weight of two people the shocks are worthless. Mao Lin, Taiwan: Tropical warm mountains with warm rivers and waterfalls, and an unforgettable old man. The old man’s house was open to the air, rotten food was thrown out onto the ground, and flies were everywhere. My upper lip rose slightly at the sight of it. No television, no A/C, no females, only a wooden couch, work bench, and his aboriginal friends huddled in his outdoor kitchen joking and laughing. It must suck to live here because it’s so far from everything, there’s only one store, if a typhoon comes then everything gets wiped out. This aboriginal village is built on a 45 degree angle down a mountain. There’s nowhere to get gas, the school only has 12 kids in it. There’s no one to talk to but crusty old people. A cigarette spilled out of the old man’s open mouth, along with a jumble of Taiwanese mixed with Mandarin, as he showed us his prized rocks. Stacks of baskets filled with black dirty stinky ugly rocks towered next to me. “Today you will help me gather these dragon bone stones,” he said.
A thick cloud of cigarette smoke filled the cab of the old man’s Jeep as its front tires dipped into a mountain stream, then relentlessly charged to the opposite bank. “A typhoon just cleared out that cliff, we search here.” One, two three, four, five, five of the rocks in one minute, he was fast. Can he really make a living selling these rocks? Do we have to spend all day with this crusty smelly fussy oldster just to repay him for the free food and place to sleep? Minutes seemed like hours, there were was nothing there. The old man waddled above the rocks bending up and down and up and down picking up a pebble after pebble.
After what seemed like eternity, my lips pursed into a smile as my hand lifted the first dragon bone stone that day, one of many to come. A rusty golden nugget sat in the center of each the black rock, like peanut butter at the center of chocolate candy.
Suddenly the old man had a halo above his head, his face was more youthful, his eyes wise and full of meaning. He knew something, a golden gem, not one of matter, one of how to live life. He and all the aboriginals here were enjoying life to the fullest; they were happier than any people on earth despite their obvious lack of everything that was supposed to bring happiness. They had nothing, but at the same time they had everything. They had mountains, rivers, tropical plants, food, houses, family, and friends. They were not conquering nature, they let nature conquer them. They worshipped nature, respected nature; they were nature: living harmoniously among the rivers and hills and boars and monkeys and deer and crawdads and mosquitos and trees and dust. They didn’t have technology, fancy houses, fast cars, fancy clothes; they had what God created for them: the earth, nature and all its beauty. That was enough to satisfy them. A scene flashed across my mind, a white man with longing blue eyes sitting in a chair in the old man’s kitchen, staring at the mountains for a lifetime.
Flying through the air, down, up, let go. Cold water stings, envelopes, diaphragm bursts with uncontrollable laughter in a mountain waterfall pool. Pressure in the shoulders, weight from the mighty river current massages. Jump, break the water surface, feet hit the mud below, jump up, break the surface, breathe, aboriginal boys laughing.
Fists clenched tight to the wire bridge, heart racing, wide eyed, finger snaps a photo a mile above the valley floor.
Headlamp, two glittering eyes in the cold water, net behind, hand in front, scare him in, shrimp king for dinner.
Hot steam pampers the nostrils and green slime caresses the skin.
Aim, whish, bullseye, aim, whish, bullseye, aim, whish, bullseye, aim, whish, bullseye, aim, wish, bullseye.
Hot feet, hot feet, a lost flip-flop, the only choice is to dive into the river.
Young aboriginal kid finds precious mud next to a stream, chocolate on the skin, soft and soothing, warm and gentle, flying in the clouds, weightless.
My thoughts return to the present. I stand up in a beam of sunlight; I can see trees and mountains through the window, my eyes absorb the beautiful spring colors. The door to the busy bossy sassy stressy messy man made world creaks open. Fingers are softly cradling the dragon bone necklace, I stroll boldly ahead, and my heart is free, wandering in Maolin.
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Duona Village in Maolin (Aka Duona Tribe, Tona, or Kungadavane 多納部落) is one of the oldest inhabited tribal villages in Taiwan, home to people of the Rukai Tribe. The village features a street full of traditional foods and restaurants, intact aboriginal culture, traditional stone houses, as well as nearby rivers, waterfalls, and hiking trails for tourists to explore.
Background: Duona is the most remote village in Maolin District of Kaohsiung City, and is said to harbor the most complete version of the Rukai Aborigine culture. The Rukai People first began to move into the area now known as Duona about 300 years ago (1700s), making it one of the oldest aborigine villages in Taiwan. Most of the people live in traditional stone houses made from nearby plentiful shale rock, which are characteristic of the Rukai Tribe. The stone houses are warm in the winter and stay cool during the summer. Near the village is a small plain which is said to be the home of Taiwan's indigenous species of black rice. The village was almost completely cut off from the outside world until the Japanese built the Duona Suspension Bridge, which helped to link it to the rest of Taiwan as well as better control the native population. The village sits at about 450 meters above sea level and has around 600 inhabitants. There is one elementary school in the village (its only educational institution) and one police station. The actual village boundaries extend to Pingtung County and Taitung County, and include largely untouched and "virgin" forests and mountain wilderness areas such as Shuang-guei Lake, providing precious wildlife habitat for many of Taiwan's indigenous animals and plants. How to get there: Take Maolin Forest Road (Kaohsiung City Road 132) past Wanshan Village and continue on to Duona Village, the last town on the road. There will be a left turn onto Duona Alley, the main road in the village. Hours: 24/7. However most of the restaurants on Duona Alley are only open from 8 AM to 5 PM. Map: Please see below: 
Tainan Anping Fort (aka Fort Zeelandia) is an ancient fort in Tainan City that dates back to the Dutch rule of Taiwan. The fort sits right next to Anping Old street, making it a great place to understand Taiwan's culture and at the same time get some of the best snacking at the culinary capital of Taiwan.
Background: After the Dutch defeat in Penghu in 1624, they turned their sights instead to the island of Taiwan (Formosa) and began building on what were then sandbars in what is now Anping, Tainan (the inland sea that once existed here has long silted in). Fort Zeelandia was completed in 1634 after 10 years of construction, built on the high ground of one of the sand bars, along with other forts in the area, such as Fort Zeeburg. It included a one story outer fort armed with cannons. There was also a three story inner fort for administration, including a church and jail. The bricks for the building were shipped in from Java. The Dutch ruled most of Taiwan until 1661 when they were defeated by Ming Loyalists lead by Koxinga. Koxinga sieged fort Zeelandia, for nine months, killing 1,600 of the Dutch people there before they surrendered due to lack of water. The victory at Zeelandia proved to be the end of 38 years of Dutch rule in Taiwan, the survivors fleeing to Batavia. After Taiwan was taken over by the Qing Dynasty in the late 1600s, Tainan became the provincial capital of Taiwan. Fort Zeelandia fell into disrepair as the bay silted in. The bricks on the outer wall were harvested for the Eternal Golden Castle fort closer to the ocean. During the Japanese occupation, the fort was repaired and renamed Anping Fort. In 1975 the fort was further repaired and the tower improved to what currently stands. Price: Anping Fort: 50 NT per person Anping Old Street: Free Hours: Anping Fort: Every day 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM. Anping Old Street: Every day 7 AM to 6:30 PM. How to get there: By Car/Scooter: From central Tainan go west on Minsheng Road until it becomes Anping Road. After that keep going until you see the tower. By Bus: Take Tainan Bus 2 from Tainan Train Station to Anping Old Fort station. The ride takes about an hour. Map: Please see below: 
Duona Suspension Bridge (aka Duonagao Suspension Bridge 多納高吊橋) is the highest pedestrian suspension bridge in Southeast Asia, featuring amazing views of the Zhuokou River and Maolin's mountainous landscape. The bridge is part of a trail that connects the top of a ridge-line, giving hikers 360 views of the river valley and surrounding landscape.
Background: The Duona Suspension bridge is the highest in Southeast Asia and the highest bridge in Taiwan. It is 232 meters long (761 feet) and 103 meters tall (338 feet). It was completed during the Japanese Colonial Era (early 1900's) and was the main connection between the Rukai tribe living at Duona Village to the rest of Taiwan. The bridge was renovated in 1997 and 2015. Car and scooter traffic have been officially banned after 2015, although local residents still ride over it. Duona Great Bridge sits in the Eagle Valley (老鷹谷) next to Duona Suspension Bridge and allows two lanes of motor traffic. It was completed in 2012. Before it was built, another bridge that crossed the river there was destroyed during the floods of Typhoon Morakot (aka eight-eight flood or 八八水災). Typhoon Morakot brought record floods to Taiwan because it slowly moved over the island delivering torrential rain. Nearly 700 people were killed during the disaster (to see what Maolin looked like right after the flooding, check out this blog here). Basically all the bridges in Maolin were destroyed during Typhoon Morakot in 2009 except Duona Suspension bridge which is built so high that it would never be affected by floodwater. Most all the bridges currently in Maolin were reconstructed after the 2009 floods. Price: Free Hours: 24/7 How to get there: Take Maolin Forest Road (Kaohsiung City Road 132) to Wanshan Village, after which turn left toward Meiya Valley 美雅谷 at the top of the ridge, and continue right until you come to the suspension bridge. Technically you should park your car there and walk to the suspension bridge, but there are also spots to park closer to the bridge. Map: Please see below: 
Maolin District of Kaohsiung City is my favorite place in Taiwan, and in Maolin I have spent the most time in Wanshan Village, thanks to a man named Ahbei.
Wanshan is a small village that lies on a mountain slope between Maolin Village and Duona Village. Near the village are waterfalls, streams, hot springs, and great views. Popular activities include swimming, hot spring bathing, river tracing, camping, and hiking. Background: Wanshan has the smallest population of any village in Taiwan according to the government website here, with a population of just 450 people. 95% of the people are aborigines from the Rukai Tribe (魯凱族), and the rest are either from the Wulu Bunun Tribe (布農) or Han Chinese. Originally the people of Wanshan village lived at the base of Mali Mountain (麻里山), but were moved by the government in 1956 to their current location. Many of the inhabitants of Maolin were originally located elsewhere, but had to relocate their home or village due to typhoons or unsafe terrain. There are a few abandoned villages around Maolin that you can still hike to. One special thing about Wanshan Village is that the intercom speaker from the elementary school (the only school in the village) is within earshot of everyone that lives in the village, so communication from the village leadership is easily passed on (and everyone gets woken up by it in the morning). Price: Free Hours: 24/7 When to go: I recommend going in the summer time when the waterfalls have plenty of water and warm temperatures make it a great time to go swimming. In winter it will be cold and the waterfalls can dry up. However in summer be careful of Typhoons. If there is a Typhoon, the inhabitants of Maolin will be evacuated, and you should not try to go in for your own safety. On the other hand if you want to go just for hiking, winter would be a better time to go. If you are coming to see butterflies, the butterfly migration is in the fall and ends roughly in November. How to get there: By Car: Maolin can be reached via provincial highway 27 from Pingtung or Liugui. Once you come to Dajin Bridge, go straight up the mountain. By Bus: You can take a bus there but I don't recommend it. It's a 3 hour bus ride from Pingtung Bus Station. If you can rent a car or scooter it is about a 1.5 hour drive from downtown Kaohsiung. Map: Please see below: 
Maolin Village is the first and largest village you come across in the mountainous Maolin District of Kaohsiung. It features an aboriginal cultural sights, waterfalls, swimming holes, delicious food, and much more to be explored by you.
This blog is the first of a 5 part blog series that I will share about my favorite place in Taiwan, Maolin. Background: During the Japanese occupation, some of the original inhabitants of Maolin Village live in the mountains behind Wanshan Village. However later these aboriginals were forcibly moved to the current village. Many of the inhabitants were originally located elsewhere, but had to relocate their home or village due to typhoons or unsafe terrain. There are a few abandoned villages above the current village that you can still hike to. The village covers the area from Dajin Bridge 大津橋 to Maolin Valley 茂林谷, and has about 850 inhabitants, mostly aboriginals from the Rukai (魯凱族) Wulu Bunun (布農) and Paiwan (排灣) tribes, as well as some Han Chinese people. The village also has Maolin Middle school, the only middle school, and highest education institution in Maolin District. Price: Free Hours: 24/7 When to go: I recommend going in the summer time when the waterfalls have plenty of water and warm temperatures make it a great time to go swimming. In winter it will be cold and the waterfalls can dry up. On the other hand if you want to go just for hiking, winter would be a better time to go. If there is a Typhoon, the inhabitants of Maolin will be evacuated, and you should not try to go in for your own safety. If you are coming to see butterflies, the butterfly migration is in the fall and ends roughly in November. How to get there: By Car: Maolin can be reached via provincial highway 27 from Pingtung or Liugui. Once you come to Dajin Bridge, go straight up the mountain. By Bus: You can take a bus there but I don't recommend it. It's a 3 hour bus ride from Pingtung Bus Station. If you can rent a car or scooter it is about a 1 1/2 hour drive from Kaohsiung. Map: Please see below: 
Kinmen (aka Jinmen or Quemoy) is a group of islands off the coast of Xiamen, China, belonging to Taiwan. For years it was the front lines and closest territory to China during the Chinese Civil War, which has not officially ended. Now that the war with China has come to a close due to the establishment of the "status quo," Kinmen has been open to tourism, especially from that of China. Kinmen has the highest concentration of museums and historical buildings in almost anywhere in Taiwan, as well as local cuisine, beaches, and scenery, making it an ideal vacation destination for both Taiwanese, Chinese, and other foreign tourists.
Background: Kinmen first began to be settled by Chinese people in the Tang Dynasty (around 700 AD). It got it;s name Jinmen "Golden Gate" from the Hongwu Emporer who set up military operations on the main Island during the Ming Dynasty in 1387. The name Quemoy comes from the Hokkien pronunciation of the name. After the fall of the Ming Dynasty (1644), Ming Loyalists continued to occupy Kinmen under the Prince of Lu and Kongxia, but Kinmen was eventually captured by the Qing in 1663. The Islands were never ceded to Japan. After the fall of the Qing Dynasty, Kinmen (along with the rest of China) was governed by the Republic of China (ROC). When the ROC lost the Chinese Civil War, they retreated to Taiwan under the leadership of Chiang Kai-shek, but still maintaining some outlying islands off of the west coast of China. The ROC army dug into Kinmen and fortified almost every inch of the island, holding off PRC invasion. Perhaps the most pivotal battle in holding off the communists was the battle of Guningtou in which 9,000 PRC troops were defeated and captured in an attempt to take back the island of Kinmen. The battle effectively stopped the PRC from advancing toward invasion of Taiwan, because in 1950 the Korean War started, demanding much of their manpower, buying time until the Sino-American Mutual Defense Treaty was signed in 1955, offering protection by the United States. against PRC invasion of Taiwan. Because of this, the battle laid the groundwork for the status quo between China and Taiwan as we know it today. Kinmen was kept as a military reserve until it was made into a civilian government in the 1990s. Travel was reopened with China in 2001, which really opened the door for the tourism sector on the islands mainly driven by Chinese tourists. Many businessmen also moved to the island to gain easy entry into China from Taiwan. In 2015 the Taiwanese government made it easier for Chinese tourists to visit Kinmen by allowing them to apply for via on arrival. Currently the island's main industry is tourism, but there is also large Sorghum Wine production industry, as well as agriculture and fishing. Kinmen is a stronghold for the KMT party, mainly because the residents resent the fact that many in the pro-independence DPP would consider returning Kinmen to China in an independence treaty. When to go: Autumn is said to be the best time to visit, when there are still warm temperature and not too much rainfall. Spring also has great temperatures, but seasonal rains may dampen your travels. Summer can get really hot, which might be totally fine with you. The winter is cold and windy; don't go in winter. How to get there: By Plane: The only way to get to from Taiwan to Kinmen is via a airplane. Planes leave daily from Taipei, Taichung, Chiayi, Tainan, Penghu, and Kaohsiung. By Boat: You can reach Kinmen from Xiamen at Wutong port (五通碼頭) or Quanzhou at Shijing Port (石井碼頭), connecting at Shuitou Port (水頭碼頭). Map: Please see below: 
The battle of Guningtou was of the largest and perhaps the important fight that fended off PRC invasion in Kinmen and Taiwan. It began with thousands of communist troops boarding ships and invading Kinmen, gaining ground quickly. However, the PRC troops were pushed back and captured, proving to be an important victory for the ROC army and preventing the PRC from advancing to Taiwan.
Now you can learn more about this important battle by passing through the town of Guningtou and visiting the Guningtou Battle Museum. Background: During the Chinese Civil War, Chiang Kai-shek's nationalist ROC forces started to withdraw to Taiwan. According to PRC strategy, Kinmen and Matsu had to be taken before an attack on Taiwan. The PRC originally thought that there were only 2,000 troops on Kinmen, but in reality there had 40,000 troops, as well as air and sea support. The PLA sent 19,000 troops to Kinmen that were supposed to take the island in a number of days. On October 26th, 1949, the initial wave of PRC troops were shot up by the ROC and many of their wooden boats destroyed, but were able to push there way into Guningtou with help from a second wave of reinforcements. In total, only 9,000 of the original 19,000 troops landed on Kinmen. The next day a bloody battle was fought in the village of Guningtou, and with the help of air support, the PRC forces were pushed back to the beach. By the third day, all of the PRC troops had surrendered, proving ultimate victory for the ROC army for the battle. In total, 1,267 ROC troops were killed, 3,873 PRC soldiers were killed and 5,175 were captured. For more information regarding the battle, see the Wikipedia article here. The outcome of the battle proved to be a morale boost for ROC troops that had been losing over and over to PRC forces on the mainland. It effectively stopped the PRC from advancing toward invasion of Taiwan, because in 1950 the Korean War started, demanding much of their manpower, buying time until the Sino-American Mutual Defense Treaty was signed in 1955, offering protection by the United States. against PRC invasion of Taiwan. Because of this, the battle laid the groundwork for the status quo between China and Taiwan as we know it today. Hours: Every day, 8:30 AM -5 PM Price: Free How to get There: Take Huandao West Road North out of Kincheng and continue to Guningtou Village. Follow the signs and turn right after you come to Beishan Old House to reach the museum. Map: Please see below: 
Kenting National Park is one of the most beautiful natural areas in Taiwan. Lying on the southern peninsula of Taiwan, it features natural scenery from beaches, coral reefs, waterfalls, grasslands, tropical forests, sand dunes, mountains, and more. Popular activities include hiking, cycling, swimming, snorkeling, surfing, and any other water sport you can think of. Also it has year round warm tropical temperatures and sunny weather, making it an ideal vacation destination.
Background: Kenting was first settled by Chinese during the Qing Dynasty. The word Kenting comes from twp words that mean cultivate (ken3 墾) and strong man (丁 ding1). During that time, a group of strong men (or Zhuang Ding 壯丁) came from Guangdong, who were basically Chinese pionners of the area to cultivate the land, hence the area was named Kenting for them. The area was considered to be made into a park during the Japanese occupation due to it being the only tropical location in the Japanese Empire, but was never officially created. Kenting National Park was established in 1984 as the first national park in Taiwan after WWII. Kenting became a major vacation spot, becoming a center for hostels and hotels for travelers. Kenting is considered by many to have the best beaches in Taiwan. This is because of its fine white sand and year-round warm temperatures and sunshine (it is in the tropical part of Taiwan after all). Hours: 24/7 Price: Free entrance into the park, however certain sections require an entrance fee: Gueishan 龜山: 60 NT per person Eluanbi Park 鵝鑾鼻公園: 60 NT per person Maobitou Park 貓鼻頭公園: 30 NT per person Kenting Forest Recreation Area 墾丁國家森林遊樂區: 150 NT per person Jialeshui Scenic Area 佳樂水風景區: 100 NT per person Kenting Youth Activity Center 墾丁青年活動中心: 50 NT per person Sheding Park 社頂自然公園: Free Longluan Lake 龍鑾潭: Free South Bay Recreation Area 南灣遊憩區: Free Little Bay 小灣海灘: Free When to go: Summer! It's when the water is warmest and the sun is hottest. However there will be more people in summer, and there could be Typhoons. Spring and Fall are also good times to go, as there will be less visitors and cooler temperatures. Winter is an okay time to go as well, it will be warmer than the rest of Taiwan and the water will still be warm enough to swim in. How to get there: By Car/Scooter: Take provincial highway 1 south to the bottom of Taiwan until it becomes provincial highway 26. After that keep going past Hengchun into Kenting National Park. By Bus: Busses leave daily to Kenting from Zuoying HSR station, Kaohsiung Station, and Pingtung. By Plane: There are direct shuttle busses to Kenting from Kaohsing's Xiaogang (KHH) Airport. Map: Please see below: 
Baishawan Beach in Kenting (aka White Sand Bay, not to be confused with Baishawan Beach in New Taipei) is arguably the best beach in Taiwan, with excellent sand, warm clear water, warm temperatures year round, and fewer visitors than Kenting Beach.
Background: Kenting was first settled by Chinese during theQing Dynasty. The word Kenting comes from twp words that mean cultivate (ken3 墾) and strong man (丁 ding1). During that time, a group of strong men (or Zhuang Ding 壯丁) came from Guangdong, who were basically Chinese pionners of the area to cultivate the land, hence the area was named Kenting for them. The area was considered to be made into a park during the Japanese occupation due to it being the only tropical location in the Japanese Empire, but was never officially created. Kenting National Park was established in 1984 as the first national park in Taiwan after WWII. Kenting became a major vacation spot, becoming a center for hostels and hotels for travelers. Kenting is considered by many to have the best beaches in Taiwan. This is because of its fine white sand and year-round warm temperatures and sunshine (it is in the tropical part of Taiwan after all). Baishawan beach was a filming location for Life of Pi, acting as the tropical Mexican shoreline. Baishawan Beach was also named the "Best Kept Secret" beach in the world by BeachTomoto.com Hours: 24/7 Price: Free When to go: Summer! It's when the water is warmest and the sun is hottest. However there will be more people in summer, and there could be Typhoons. Spring and Fall are also good times to go, as there will be less visitors and cooler temperatures. Winter is an okay time to go as well, it will be warmer than the rest of Taiwan and the water will still be warm enough to swim in. How to get there: By Car/Scooter: Take provincial highway 1 south to the bottom of Taiwan until it becomes provincial highway 26. After you pass Hengchun, take a right onto Longguang Road and keep going west toward the sea. The beach will be on your right as you travel south on county road 153. By Bus: Busses leave daily to Kenting from Zuoying HSR station, Kaohsiung Station, and Pingtung. Get off at the Hengchun Bus Station, and then take the 305 Hengchun Bus to the White Sand Bay stop. By Plane: There are direct shuttle busses to Kenting from Kaohsing's Xiaogang (KHH) Airport. Map: Please see below: 
Jiugong Tunnels (aka Siwei Tunnels 思維坑道) are the most impressive tunnels on Little Kinmen, and extremely similar to the Zhaishan Tunnels on Kinmen Island. Originally built to protect ROC ships from bombing raids, the tunnels actually go through the island, connecting the ocean from each side.
Background: Jiugong Tunnels were completed in 1965 to protect ships, connecting Jiugong Pier to Luocu Fishing Harbor. The tunnel connects these by going under a hill on the south side of Little Kinmen. The tunnels are 790 meters long and 11.5 meters high, feature 5 underground piers, 4 exits to the sea, and in its prime it could fit up to 52 ships in the tunnels. Hours: 8 AM to 5 PM every day Price: Free How to Get There: From Jiugong Pier turn left, and go south on Binhai Boulevard to the end of the road. The tunnels will be on the right. Map: Please see below: 
Kenting Beach is the premier beach destination on the Taiwan mainland, and attracts more visitors than any other beach on the island. It features beautiful white sand and long, flat beaches, as well as clear water that is relatively warm year round. In addition, the beach has sunshine for most of the year. Popular activities include jet skiing, water skiing, surfing, swimming, and sunbathing. Located right next to the beach is Kenting Street, a great night market for snacking and tourist oriented shopping.
Background: Kenting was first settled by Chinese during theQing Dynasty. The word Kenting comes from twp words that mean cultivate (ken3 墾) and strong man (丁 ding1). During that time, a group of strong men (or Zhuang Ding 壯丁) came from Guangdong, who were basically Chinese pionners of the area to cultivate the land, hence the area was named Kenting for them. The area was considered to be made into a park during the Japanese occupation due to it being the only tropical location in the Japanese Empire, but was never officially created. Kenting National Park was established in 1984 as the first national park in Taiwan after WWII. Kenting became a major vacation spot, becoming a center for hostels and hotels for travelers. Kenting is considered by many to have the best beaches in Taiwan. This is because of its fine white sand and year-round warm temperatures and sunshine (it is in the tropical part of Taiwan after all). Hours: Kenting Beach: 24/7 Kenting Street Night Market: 6:30 PM - Midnight Price: Free When to go: Summer! It's when the water is warmest and the sun is hottest. However there will be more people in summer, and there could be Typhoons. Spring and Fall are also good times to go, as there will be less visitors and cooler temperatures. Winter is an okay time to go as well, it will be warmer than the rest of Taiwan and the water will still be warm enough to swim in. How to get there: By Car/Scooter: Take provincial highway 1 south to the bottom of Taiwan until it becomes provincial highway 26. After that keep going past Hengchun into Kenting National Park. The beach will be on your right as you pass the Mcdonald's. By Bus: Busses leave daily to Kenting from Zuoying HSR station, Kaohsiung Station, and Pingtung. Get off at the Kenting Beach stop （墾丁浴場）. By Plane: There are direct shuttle busses to Kenting from Kaohsing's Xiaogang (KHH) Airport. Map: Please see below: 
The area around Hujingtou in the island of Little Kinmen (aka Lieyu 烈嶼) is full of historical significance. It was the closest front line in Taiwan after the Chinese Civil War, only 5 KM from Xiamen. Now the museum and displays in the area are open to tourists who can experience what it was like to be on the front lines during the standoff between the PRC and KMT forces.
Background: The Hujingtou Battle Museum was built in 1988 , and features a castle like building, including moats and cannons on display. The museum details battles that occured on little Kinmen such as the Da Eer Battle and the August 23 Artillery Battle (aka Second Taiwan Strait Crisis) in which the PRC and KMT forces battered each other with artillery fire for 4 weeks, killing roughly 800 soldiers in total. The battle resulted in a stalemate, with neither side gaining any ground and the Chinese using up all their ammunition. The Battle Museum also conspicuously leaves out history of the 1987 Lieyu Massacre in which ROC forces shot and killed 19 Vietnamese shipwrecked fisherman and tried to cover it up. How to get there: From Kinmen, take the ferry from Shuitou Harbor to little Kinmen. You can drive your scooter onto the ferry, or take a taxi once you get to the other side. The fort is on the northwestern corner of the island. Price: Free Hours: 8:30 AM - 5:00 PM every day Map: Please see below: 
Cheng Ching Lake (aka Cheng Cing Lake or Ching Qing Lake) in Kaohsiung is one of the most beautiful parks in Taiwan. Much of the lake is full of traditional Chinese gardens and architecture. Because of its size, it cannot be properly appreciated by only going there for one afternoon; there are simply too many things to see and do there.
People often don’t realize that Kaohisung has a lot to offer to tourists. Many of the places down south aren’t represented as well as sites in Taipei, which is why we want to help everyone realize what a great place it is. I used to live in Kaohsiung and exercise at Cheng Ching Lake daily, and boy do I miss it! There are many lucky elderly Kaohsiung residents that visit the lake daily for free, and I envy them. How to Get There: From the Weiwuying MRT station, you can take the 70A bus straight to the main entrance. Map: Price: 100 NT per person, 50 NT for students, 60/100 NT for cars (there is a discount for cars on weekdays), and 30 NT for scooters. If your ARC or National ID has a Kaohsiung address, you can enter the park for free! Hours: 4 AM - 9 PM (no entry after 6 PM) Historical Background: 
The Kinmen land mine museum lies on the island of little Kinmen (Lieyu), and uses space from the disused bunkers of "Tiehan Fort and “Yongshi Fort." The exhibition provides a full explanation of the history of landmines not only in Taiwan but in the entire world. It also provides a real life, and rather frightening, experience for its visitors.
Background: The Land Mine museum was finished in 2014, using tunnel space in the old "Tiehan Fort" (鐵漢堡) and “Yongshi Fort" (勇士堡). These two forts were fitted with anti-aircraft cannons, artillery storage, and tank storage. They both survived bombing raids from the mainland. The exhibit takes you through underground tunnels that connect these two forts. After the Chinese Civil War, there were many land mines left over in and around Kinmen. Most all of these land mines have been carefully removed. However land mines still cause casualties to innocent people worldwide; this museum goes on to explore these problems as well as land mine cleanup efforts throughout the world. How to get there: From Kinmen, take the ferry from Shuitou Harbor to little Kinmen. You can drive your scooter onto the ferry, or take a taxi once you get to the other side. The fort is on the northeast corner of the island. Hours: 8:00 - 5:00 very day Price: Free Map: Please see below: 
Fo Guang Shan (aka Buddah Light Mountain, Buddah's Light Mountain, or Buddha Memorial Center) is a Buddhist sect based in Dashu District of Kaohsiung. The headquarters in Dashu feature the largest Buddhist monastery in the country along with a 8 pagodas, a large pyramid, huge sitting buddha statue, and Buddha museum. The massive complex can fill a tourists itinerary for more than a day, and is TripAdvisor's top ten tourist landmarks in Taiwan.
Background: The Fo Guang Shan religion was established by Hsing Yun in 1967, begning with the development of the monastery in Dashu. The religion is focused on Humanistic Buddhism, with an emphasis on technology. Fo Guang Shan has since grown to be one of the largest charitable organizations in Taiwan. Currently it has established medical programs, several colleges, one university, and has presence in 173 countries. The Fo Guang Shan Buddha Museum started construction in 2008 and was completed in 2011. One of the most precious artifacts in the museum is the tooth of Sakyamuni Buddha. The grounds feature eight pagodas, hundreds of statues, 4 different museums, an auditorium, Jade and Golden Buddha Statues, and 48 underground palaces (time capsules). How to get there: From Kaohsiung, take provincial highway 29 north to Dashu, and it will be right in front of the National Highway 3 bridge. You can also travel there via public buses. Price: Free Hours: 9 AM to 8 PM Map: Please see below: 
The Qing Military Headquarters in Kinmen is the oldest and one of the best preserved buildings from the Qing dynasty in Taiwan. The complex is completely renovated into a museum, and is full of exhibits, showing visitors exactly what life was like during the Qing dynasty, as well as providing historical background to Kinmen and the surrounding area.
Background: The building itself was built in the 1600s during the Ming Dynasty for the scholar Xuxie (許獬) as a library. During the reign of the Kangxi Emporer starting in1662 (during the Qing Dynasty), the building was transformed into the military headquarters for Kinmen. After the ROC lost the Chinese Civil War, they used the building for government purposes until it was made into the police headquarters in 1958. In 1991 the building was made into a historical monument. In 1995 it was abandoned by the police, and by 2004 renovations had stared on the building. In 2012 the renovations were completed, and the Kinmen Military Headquarters during the Qing Dynasty reopened as a museum. Hours: 9 AM to 10 PM every day. Price: Free How to Get There: The building is in the center of Kincheng near Kincheng Old Street, on Wujiang Street No. 53 (浯江街53號). Map: Please see below: 
Xiaoliuqiu (aka Little Liuqiu or Lamay Island) is a small island paradise off the southwestern coast of Taiwan. The island is known for its clear water, amazing coral reefs, white sand beaches, and quiet laid back atmosphere. Only a short half hour boat ride from the Taiwan mainland, the island is easily accessible. In addition, the island is small enough that you can round the entire island by scooter in a matter of minutes.
Background: In 1622, a Dutch ship crashed on the island, two years before the Dutch began to rule Taiwan, and all but one of the crew members were killed by the aboriginal tribe living on the island at the time. In retaliation, the Dutch sent a force to massacre the natives on the island. 300 men, women, and children were suffocated alive in a large cave, and the rest of the people were put into slavery by the Dutch. This was known as the Lamey Island Massacre. Later Chinese people began inhabiting the island in 1645. Later the island fell into Qing, Japanese, and ROC rule. Currently the island is a township of Pingtung County with a population of over 10,000 people. Most of the people on the island rely on fishing and tourism for a living. The island also has one of the largest concentrations of temples in Taiwan. Xiaoliuqiu started to become a major tourist destination after 2004, reaching over 400,000 tourists per year. How to get there: The only way to get there is via ferry from Donggang's Dongliu Ferry Terminal. The ferry ride takes about 30 minutes. There is a ferry leaving from Donggang roughly every hour from 7 AM to 5 PM. Price: Ferry ride: 410 NT per round trip Scooter rental: about 300 NT per day. There is a gas station on the back side of the island. Snorkeling: about 300 NT per hour Scuba diving: around 2500 NT for 2-3 hours When to go: Anytime! Xiaoliuqiu is a tropical island that has warm water and temperatures (above 25 degrees Celsius) year round. Map: Please see below: 
The photo sample above was taken from the National Development Council website.
On February 8th, 2018, Taiwan rolled out the Act for the Recruitment of Foreign Professionals, which included the employment gold card four-in-one visa to entice foreign special professionals to come and seek work opportunities in Taiwan. Details and common questions about this new type of visa/work permit can be answered below.
Please note that this blog not a comprehensive guide but only gives basic information about the gold card based on the information on the National Development Council website. Q: What is the Taiwan employment gold card? A: The employment gold card is a four-in-one visa, work permit, alien resident certificate, and re-entry permit. It also provides other benefits to foreigners as mentioned below. Q: What benefits does Taiwan's employment gold card have? A: The benefits associated with the employment gold card or special professional work permit are as follows:
Q: Who can apply for and obtain Taiwan’s employment gold card? A: Foreigners that are specialists in their field. This includes Taiwan dual citizens and citizens of Macau and Hong Kong. Q: What are the requirements for the employment gold card? A: The full requirements for foreign special professionals can be found here. The exact requirements vary by industry. However, the requirements generally require that an applicant show that they are a special professional or senior professional that has made special contributions to their field of work or received national recognition in one of the following 8 accepted professional industries: 1. Science and technology 2. Economy 3. Finance 4. Education 5. Culture and Arts 6. Sports 7. Law 8. Architectural Design Q: Does the exemption from tax on overseas income (alternative minimum tax, or AMT) for the Taiwan gold card only last for the first three years? A: Yes, this tax benefit only lasts three years, the same as the tax benefit for 50% of income above 3 million. Q: How is the three years calculated for tax benefits for AMT and 50% of income above 3 million? A: The three years start from the first tax year in which the foreign professional becomes a tax resident (stays for 183 days or more in a calendar year). However, if the foreign professional does not meet the qualifications for tax resident, they can defer this tax benefit to the following year, but no longer that five years after the work permit or gold card was first issued. Q: How is the 50% of income above 3 million NT calculated if I am filing jointly with my spouse? A: In this case the 50% of taxable income above 3 million NT only applies to your income. You cannot use this tax benefit for your spouse unless he/she also has a gold card. Q: If I apply for a gold card but I am not a tax resident, when will the three years expire? A: As explained above, you can defer the 3 year tax benefits to future years, but no longer that five years after the work permit or gold card was first issued. Q: If I meet the 160,000 NT per month salary requirement, can I get a gold card? A: Not necessarily. You also need to prove that you are a special professional in your field. In general this means proving your past work experience and awards to the government. Q: Can I still get a Taiwan employment gold card without meeting the 160,000 NT salary per month requirement? A: You can bypass the 160,000 NT per month requirement if you meet other requirements proving you are a special professional in your field. Q: How will my dependents get visas? A: As long as you have first been approved for your gold card or special professional visa, your dependents will be able to receive their dependent visas. If they enter Taiwan using the visa free program, they will need to come on the same flight as you, otherwise they will have to leave Taiwan and receive their dependent visas at the Taiwan office overseas, or receive them before they leave if you are coming on different flights. Q: If I switch from a normal ARC to an employment gold card, will my dependent's visas be affected? A: No, there will be no changes to your dependent's visas. Q: How many year of experience do I need for the employment gold card? A: Typically at least 5. Q: How long does it take for the government to approve a gold card application? A: After the application is submitted, it will take about 1 month to receive an approval or rejection. Please also note that there is a government fee associated with each application. Q: What is the difference between an employment gold card and a work permit for a foreign special professional applied by a Taiwan company? A: They are basically the same, both have the same tax benefits, but the differences are as follows: 
Zhaishan Tunnels (aka Jhaishan Tunnels) are winding military tunnels running underground in Kinmen connecting to the ocean. During the Chinese Civil War, they were used to protect ships from bombing raids. The tunnels are open for tours, and besides having great acoustics the tunnels are also strikingly beautiful.
Background: The tunnels were completed in 1966, but due to budget constraints the tunnels had to close in 1986. I assume this is because the tunnels required constant dredging. The tunnels were made into a national heritage park and opened for tourists in 1998. The tunnels are over 350 meters long, 6 meters wide, and 3.5 meters high. Hours: Every day 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Price: Free How to get there: Take Zhuhai West Road Sec. 3 out of Kincheng south to Guguang lake. Follow the brown signs to the tunnels; there is a large parking lot and park in front of the entrance. Map: Please see below: 
Hehuan Mountain (aka Hehuanshan or Mt. Hehuan) may be the most popular place to see snow in Taiwan, partly due to the fact that it has the highest public road in the country (located at Wuling (武嶺). Most people in Taiwan live at or near sea level in a tropical/subtropical environment that never has snow. However, it does snow in Taiwan at many places with higher elevations, such as Yangmingshan, Jade Mountain, Alishan, Snow Mountain, etc. If temperatures get low enough between December and February, snow is possible to fall wherever the elevation is high enough in Taiwan. However places like Hehuanshan are special because you can drive a vehicle right to the top.
Background: Hehuanshan lies at the edge of Taroko National Park on the border of Nantou and Hualien Counties. The road from Nantou to Taroko Gorge passes through the saddle on Hehuanshan between the the East Peak and Main Peak, and is the highest accessible public road in Taiwan (also known as Wuling 武嶺). Near this place, the Wushe incident and Taroko War took place (see below for more details). During the Martial Law period in Taiwan, a ski lift ran on the mountain, but has since been abandoned due to lack of consistent snowfall. The Taiwan military also has its winter training grounds near the mountain. Recently Hehuanshan has been a popular place for hiking and taking photos, and has been an Instagram hot spot. Hours: 24/7 unless otherwise closed by the department of transportation When to Go: It snows on Hehuanshan usually December to February. You can check the current weather for Hehuanshan here and live video feed of the mountain and ground conditions here. Price: Free How to Get There: Take provincial highway 14 from Puli, and keep going after your reach Qingjing Farm. Alos you can take Provincial Highway 8 from Taroko Gorge National Park. Stop when you reach the very top of the road, the Wuling parking lot. Traffic Control: Buses and large truck are not allowed. Sometimes chains are required (no one has chains in Taiwan). Map: Please see below: 
Tax season is here. In Taiwan, taxes must be filed from before May 31st. As a foreigner, you might be wondering how to file a tax return and what the regulations are. Luckily Taiwan has made it easy by creating an online tax filing system that you can complete from your computer, although you do still have to physically send some forms to the tax office. Let us answer some common questions about tax filing that might come up:
Forward: The following is Q+A for tax year 2018 only, based on information provided on Taiwan's Ministry of Finance website. Q: When should I file Taxes? A: Between May 1st to May 31st after the tax year (tax year is same as calendar year). If you are leaving the country and do not plan to return to Taiwan, you must file an early tax return within 10 days before you leave. We recommend going to the tax office in person for an early filing. Q: When are Taiwan tax payments due? A: Tax payments are due by June 3rd, after which there will be penalties for late payments. Q: What makes me eligible for paying Taiwan taxes (or what makes me a tax resident)? A: You become a Taiwan tax resident if you stay in Taiwan longer than 183 days, or you have household registration（戶籍） in Taiwan and visit for at least one day. The address in your ARC is not household registration, it's a registration process from the local administrative office (戶政事務所）. If you stay less than 90 days in Taiwan, you do not have to file taxes, and VAT or sales taxes are reimbursable. If you worked in Taiwan and stayed over 90 days, you need to pay taxes on your Taiwan based salary even if your income came from overseas. If you stayed in Taiwan between 90-183 days, then you need to pay a fixed rate of 18% income tax （your company may have deducted this from your salary already). If you have Taiwanese dual citizenship and Taiwanese house registration, then you need to pay taxes if you have stayed in Taiwan for over 31 days. Days are cumulative in a tax year, and it doesn't matter what you came for during these days. How do I count the days I stayed in Taiwan? Please note that the day you come to Taiwan doesn't count, but the day you leave does. It's a good idea to keep track of the number of days you have been in Taiwan via the stamps on your passport. Q: What is the income tax rate?/ How much is Taiwan tax? A: The income tax rate for non-residents who earn at least 1.5 the minimum wage per month (34,650 NT as of 2019) is 18% (you can get a tax refund if you pay 18% taxes and then become a tax resident). This tax rate is usually applicable for most white collar foreigners. For non-residents who earn less than 1.5 the minimum wage per month (34,650 NT as of 2019), the income tax rate is 6%. This tax rate is usually applicable for most blue collar foreigners from Southeast Asia. The 2018 tax rate for residents (staying over 183 days in Taiwan) is as follows (source: Taiwan Ministry of Finance): 
The Ancient City of Kinmen (Quemoy) is one of the most historically rich places in Kinmen and in Taiwan. Not to be confused with Kincheng (the largest city in Kinmen) this walled city was built in the 1300's during the Ming Dynasty as a defense for the region, a role that it has played throughout its history. Although most of the original gates and walls have been destroyed, all of the citiy's four gates have recently been rebuilt. Walking through these ancient streets you can feel hundreds of years of history speaking to you.
Background: This city was originally constructed at the time of the Hongwu Emporer during the Ming Dynasty in 1387, and was originally called the Kinmen Guard City of 1000 Households (金門守禦千戶所城). The city was damaged in the fight between Kongxia and the Qing Dynasty in 1680, but was later repaired. However the Qing military headquarters of Kinmen were later moved to Houpu, which meant the city was left to ruin. When the ROC retreated to the island in 1949, they tore down what remained of the walls for other uses, leaving only parts of the foundations. In1997 thanks to donations from the Kinmen Kaoliang Liquor Inc. at the south of the city, the Kinmen Government was able to rebuild the ancient gates of Kinmen City. Hours: 24/7 Price: Free! How to get there: By Car/Scooter: Take Xihai Road Sec. 2 to Shuitou Village, then turn left onto Zhushui Road. You will drive right through the city! Map: Please see below. 
The Luku Incident Memorial is a reflective arch statue in Shiding District of New Taipei that commemorates what is known as "the largest political event of the nation’s White Terror era." The incident involved two brothers that had started a communist party holdout in the mountains of Shiding. The resulting response, from the then martial law-era ROC government under then Dictator Chiang Kai-Shek, was thousands of police officers arresting hundreds of innocent people, with many of the people being falsely imprisoned and executed.
Historical Background: Two brothers, Chen Pen-chiang and Chen Tung-ho (陳通和), created an armed communist party holdout in the Luku village of Shiding District. They also organized a youth group consisting of underage villagers, however this group did not participate in any illicit activity. In response, on Dec. 28th, 1952, about 10,000 police officers and ROC armed soldiers raided the village over the space of four months, blocking off roads and arresting everyone while trying to remove the communists. Around 400 people in the surrounding areas were arrested, with 200 of those people being tortured and 35 killed. According to the Taipei Times: "Among the 200, 12 were not indicted or released for turning themselves in, while 98 were given prison sentences, 19 of whom were underage." Due to the terrible injustice dealt to the village and the surrounding people, the Luku Incident Memorial was erected in the year 2000. For more information on the incident, check out the articles written by the Taipei Times here andhere. You can also check out the Wikipedia article in Chinese here. How to get there: Travel south on Academia Sinica Road in Nangang, and then take Jiuzhuang Street Sec. 2 (舊莊街二段) all the way up the mountain. The memorial sits at the border between Taipei City and New Taipei City. Map: Please see below: 
Beishan Broadcasting Tower (aka Beishan Broadcasting Wall) is a tower on the north central coast of Kinmen used by the military to broadcast messages, propaganda, and music across Xiamen harbor to communists on the other side. The tower still sends broadcasts daily, and is a unique wartime relic that is definitely worth visiting.
Background: The tower has 48 speaker holes and can broadcast up to 25 kilometers away. The tower was built as part of "physiological warfare" to the other side. Every day the broadcasting tower still plays messages to China, including Teresa Teng's music (鄧麗君), a Taiwanese singer who was one of the most influential and famous Mandarin speaking singers of her time. Broadcasting times: 09:00-09:45 10:30-11:00 13:00-13:30 14:00-14:30 15:00-15:45 16:00-16:30 Hours: 24/7 Price: Free: Map: Please see below. |
Author 作家We are US Expats that have extensive experience living and working in Taiwan. In our day, we had to learn many things about Taiwan the hard way. But we have come to learn that Taiwan is one of the best places in the world for Foreigners to live. Our blog does not represent the opinions of every foreigner in Taiwan. We are just trying to help others learn more about this beautiful country. Archives 檔案
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