Yilan is a gem on Taiwan's northeast coast. It has rugged mountains, waterfalls, a flat coastal plain, a volcanic island, hot springs, and some of the best beaches in Taiwan. In addition you can find night markets, seafood markets, museums, and much more to explore here. It is definitely worth a stop on your next trip to Taiwan. 

Historical Background of Yilan:
Before Chinese settlers came, the area around Yilan was inhabited by the Ketagalan Aboriginal tribe, whose language is now extinct. The name Yilan comes from this language. 
The town Toucheng literally means "first town" in Chinese, because it was the first settlement in Yilan, settled in the late 1700s. With the nearby Wushih and Touwei Harbors around the same time, it became the economic focal point of Yilan. However, in the late 1800s and early 1900s Wushih Harbor and Touwei Harbor silted in, reducing their function.
With the advent of the Japanese-built Yilan railway line in the mid-1900's, as well as constant floods and continual silting of the harbors, Toucheng Old Street quickly lost its importance economically and fell into decay.
The Japanese also built logging railways up to Taipingshan to harvest lumber. 
The first path between Yilan and Hualien was a trail built in the Qing Dynasty that was completed in 1876, in order for the Qing to better control aboriginal peoples on the east coast. Later after Japan took control of Taiwan, they widened the path and built 9 bridges and 14 tunnels along the way, making it drivable for cars (one way only) by 1932. Because much of the road was next to cliffs that underwent constant landslides, it was considered one of the most dangerous roads in the world at the time. In the 1980s the ROC government further widened the road, and the two-lane highway was completed in 1990. In 2020, the section of road between Su'ao and Dong'ao was bypassed by a tunnel. 
Currently Yilan has a population of over 450,000. An High-Speed Rail extension is planned for Yilan, and is expected to be completed by 2036.

You can find a map of places we will cover in this blog below:

Nanfang'ao is the third-largest fishing harbor in Taiwan and is an important part of the local economy. Just above the harbor along the Suhua highway is an amazing lookout that gives a 180-degree view of southern Yilan, Su'ao, and the surrounding area. It is definitely worth a stop on your next trip to the east coast of Taiwan. ​

Background:
The first path between Su'ao and Hualien was a trail built in the Qing Dynasty that was completed in 1876, for the Qing to better control aboriginal peoples on the east coast. Later after Japan took control of Taiwan, they widened the path and built 9 bridges and 14 tunnels along the way, making it drivable for cars (one way only) by 1932. Because much of the road was next to cliffs that underwent constant landslides, it was considered one of the most dangerous roads in the world at the time. In the 1980s the ROC government further widened the road, and the two-lane highway was completed in 1990. In 2020, the section of road between Su'ao and Dong'ao was bypassed by a tunnel. ​
Nanfang'ao is the third-largest fishing harbor in Taiwan and is an important part of the local economy. There is a popular fish and seafood market there that is open from 3 PM to 5 PM every day at the harbor if you a fan of fresh seafood.
​
Price:
Free

Hours:
24/7

How to get there:
By Car/Scooter: From Su'ao or Dong'ao, take Highway 9 east along the coast. You will have to take a dangerous U-turn or left turn across double yellow lines if you come from Su'ao, so it is better to come from Dong'ao. 
By Bus: Take the Nanfang'ao Blue line to Nanjian Shopping Center (南建購物中心) then walk up the Nanfang'ao Lookout trail about 15 minutes to the lookout. 

Map:
​Please see below:

The Suhua Highway Monument (蘇花公路安魂碑) and nearby Kailu Xianfengye Temple (開路先鋒爺廟) commemorate the 13 workers who died building the road from Su'ao to Hualien from 1932 to the present. It sits on one of the most scenic viewpoints of the highway between Su'ao and Dong'ao, overlooking Dong'ao Bay. It is definitely worth a stop on your next trip to the east coast of Taiwan. 

Background:
​The first path between Su'ao and Hualien was a trail built in the Qing Dynasty that was completed in 1876, in order for the Qing to better control aboriginal peoples on the east coast. Later after Japan took control of Taiwan, they widened the path and built 9 bridges and 14 tunnels along the way, making it drivable for cars (one way only) by 1932. Because much of the road was next to cliffs that underwent constant landslides, it was considered one of the most dangerous roads in the world at the time. In the 1980s the ROC government further widened the road, and the two-lane highway was completed in 1990. In 2020, the section of road between Su'ao and Dong'ao was bypassed by a tunnel. 
Kailu Xianfengye Temple was erected in 1994 near the Suhua Highway Monument to honor the thirteen lives that were lost during the construction of the Su'hua highway (two during the Japanese era and 11 during the ROC era). It is believed that the ghosts of these men had protected further construction along the highway.

Price:
Free

Hours:
24/7

How to get there:
By Car/Scooter: From Su'ao or Dong'ao, take Highway 9 east along the coast. You will have to take a dangerous U-turn or left turn across double yellow lines if you come from Su'ao, so it is better to come from Dong'ao. 
By Bus: No way to get there by public transport!

Map:
​Please see below:

Luodong Night Market is the largest night market in Yilan and is one of the area's top tourist destinations. The night market covers a large area and usually is packed with people. Delicacies here include mutton soup, shaved ice, duck noodles, and onion pancakes. It is definitely worth a visit on your next trip to Yilan.

Background:
Luodong Night Market was created in 1990 as part of the local government's plan. The main part of the night market was built in front of a movie theater, so moviegoers could go get food after seeing a movie. Soon a few stalls became many, and the night market soon turned into the large sprawling area that we see today. The night market covers areas along Minsheng Road, Gongyuan Road, and Minquan Road, and also sprawls onto Tianjin Road, Zhentai Street, Xingdong Street, and Zhongshan Road Section 3. 

Hours:
3 PM to 12 AM every day.

Price:
Free

How to get there:
Bar Car/Scooter: From National Freeway 5, turn west on provincial highway 9 toward Luodong. There is paid parking near Zhongshan Park.
By TRA: The night market is about 200 meters away from Luodong TRA station. 

Map:
Please see below:

Yilan International Children's Folklore and Folkgame Festival (宜蘭國際童玩藝術節) is one of the largest children's festivals in Taiwan, occurring every year during summer break along the Dongshan River in Yilan. It features a large outdoor waterpark as well as musical performances, exhibitions, games, and cultural events. It has become a yearly tradition for many families in northern Taiwan.

Background:
The festival first began in 1996 and has continued every year, except for 2008-2009 due to lack of funds, in 2003 because of SARS, and in 2020 due to COVID. The completion of the Hsueshan Tunnel in 2006 made it much easier for large amounts of people to travel quickly from Taipei to Yilan. The large event attracts many visitors from Taipei. During summer weekdays and weekends the venue can be expected to be totally packed with visitors.

Hours:
10 AM to 8 PM (pool area closes at 6 PM), starting from the begining of July to mid-August every summer. 

Price:
350 NT on weekends and 250 NT on weekdays
50 NT parking fee for cars
20 NT parking fee for scooters

Website:
https://www.yicfff.tw/index.php?lang=5tKpKqHPsMZQ82iPyZj4TQ

How to get there:
By car/scooter: From National Highway 5 in Yilan, take provincial highway 7 east to Dongshan River Water Park.​
By bus: From Luodong TRA station, take bus GR21 to Dongshan River Water Park. 

Map:
Please see below:

The Fulong-Coaling-Sandiao Cape- bike route is one of the most biker friendly routes in Taiwan, the roughly 2 hour loop is something that the whole family can enjoy. It includes a 2KM ride through the Old Coaling Railroad Tunnel, as well as a ride along the Sandiao Cape coast on an enclosed bike path, where one can enjoy great views of the ocean, Turtle Island, wavy geological features on the coastline, and historical stone villages along the way. This bike route is highly recommended for people of all ages. 

Background:
The area around Fulong was originally inhabited by the Basay indigenous tribe who has a village and hunting grounds there.
In 1626, the Spanish landed near Fulong and renamed the location Santiago (transliterated from Taiwanese as Sandiao 三貂, as in Sandiao Cape). After the Qing colonized Taiwan, many Fujianese fisherman relocated to the area and began to build the iconic stone houses you can see today.
The Old Caoling Tunnel was ​built in 1924 during the Japanese occupation of Taiwan, and is 2,167 meters long. At the time it was built, it was the longest tunnel in Taiwan.
The tunnel took 3 years to build due to delays from Malaria, remoteness of the location, and digging accidents killing 11 people and injuring over 300. 
The tunnel was only one lane wide, too narrow for electric trains, and so was decommissioned in 1985 and lay waste for 22 years.
The tunnel was reopened when the Coaling Bicycle Loop was created in 2007, using the old Caoling Tunnel as its main looping point. 

Also, along the northeast coast are some old fishing villages that have been around since the Qing Dynasty, including traditional stone houses. One of these historical villages called Magang (馬崗) is in threat of destruction to make way for a resort. however as Li Yongping out it "The thing that attracts modern travelers most is not 5 star hotels, but history and culture!" Save the Magang Stone Houses!
Besides these historical sites, there is amazing scenery along the bike ride, such as views of Turtle Island and long flat sections of layered rock (see below to know what I am talking about). 

Price:
Bicycle Rental: 100-500 NT depending on the bike
Electric Bicycle Rental: 300-400 NT

Riding Time: 
The whole bike route is about 20 KM and takes 1-2 hours to complete.
We were going really slow with many pit stops and it took us 2 hours. 

Hours:
The Old Caoling Tunnel is open from 8:30 AM - 5:00 PM.
It is okay to walk through the tunnel on weekdays, but on weekends only bike traffic is allowed for safety reasons. 

When to go:
May to October when the weather is nice and the water is warm.
Winter on the northeast coast is cold and windy. 

How to get there:
By Train: Take the TRA train to Fulong Station. Walk straight from the station and you will see tons of bike rental shops. 
By Car/Scooter: Take provincial highway 2 from Qidu in Keelung through the mountains past Shifen and Shuangxi until you reach Gongliao on the coast. The beach is right in front of the train station, and there is free parking in front of Dongxing Temple. From there you can walk to the train station where there are bike rentals everywhere. 

Map:
Please see below:

The Caoling Old Trail (aka Caoling Historic Trail) is a section of the Danlan Old Trail connecting Gongliao District of New Taipei to Dali District of Toucheng Township in Yilan. In the past it was an important shipping route for goods from Yilan to Tamsui. Now it is a popular and family friendly hiking route due to its convenient public transportation, slow elevation gain, grassy mountain hills, and great views of the surrounding area. 

Background:
The name Caoling comes from the mang grass (silver Miscanthus flowers 芒草) that grows on the top of the ridge on the east border of Yilan and New Taipei where there are almost no trees. 
The trail is said to first be made by the Plains Aboriginies to connect their tribes in the mountains of New Taipei. 
During the Qing Dynasty, the Caoling Old trail was an important part of the Danlan Old Trail (淡蘭古道 which means the road between Tamsui and Yilan), which was split into three paths, and the Caoling Old Trail was on the Northern Path. The Northern Path was the first path created between Yilan and Tamsui, and winded from Mengjia Old Street to Nuannuan, then to Ruifang, and onto Jiufen and Houtong. From Houtong, the road then went to Mudan and then Shuangxi, then went over the Caoling pass to Yilan. During this time, most of the things traded were tea leaves and agricultural goods. 
Also, it was the main route for Han Chinese immigrants to come to Yilan. 
In 1867 Liu Mingdeng, the commander general of Taiwan at the time, walked along the Caoling Old Trail and ran into thick fog and evil spirits. Therefore he made two stone tablets: the "tiger" tablet and the Xiongzhenbianyan Tablet to ward off evil sprits and bring good luck.
Before the old Caoling Railway tunnel was completed, the last train along the Yilan Railway line stopped at Fulong, and people then walked along the Caoling Old Trail to Yilan. This is part of the reason why the trail is still preserved today. However after the tunnel was completed, people were able to travel to Yilan by train and the trail lost its importance. Later on, provincial highway 2.
Now the trail see a fair amount of tourists, especially during mang grass season (from September to November).

Hours:
24/7

Price:
Free

Difficulty:
Easy but long.

Length:
9.5 KM 

Elevation Gain:
500 meters
​
Time Needed:
Roughly 4-6 hour round trip

When to go:
If you don't mind the crowds, the best time to go is in Autumn during the Mang Grass season from September to November. Spring will also have nice temperatures but fewer people and no Mang Grass.
Other than that, in the summer it can get really hot because there is little shade on the grassy mountain top, and in the winter it can get really cold and windy. 


How to get there:
By Train: Take the TRA to Fulong Station (or Dali Station), the old trail starts from each station. 
By Car/Scooter: From Taipei, on provincial highway 5 until you reach Keelung, then take provincial highway 2B to Gongliao. If you want to shorten the hike, you can park at Yuanwangkeng Park (遠望坑親水公園), but you will have to turn around once you reach the top. If you start from either of the train stations, you can walk the full 9.5 KM loop and get back to where you started by train. 

Map:
​Please see below (the trail is the path on the left):

Toucheng Township in Yilan is known for its amazing beaches, but there is much more to do here, such as visit Lanyang Museum, visit Turtle Island, enjoy seafood, traditional fishing harbors, recreational farms, hiking, cycling, surfing lessons, and much more. Here is a short guide to Toucheng, to let you know the variety of activities that you can enjoy here. 

Background:
Before Chinese settlers came, the area around Toucheng was inhabited by the Ketagalan Aboriginal tribe, whose language is now extinct.
The name Toucheng literally means "first town" in Chinese, because it was the first settlement in Yilan, settled in the late 1700s. With the nearby Wushih and Touwei Harbors around the same time, it became the economic focal point of Yilan. However in the late 1800s and early 1900s Wushih Harbor and Touwei Harbor silted in, reducing their function.
With the advent of the Japanese built Yilan railway line in the mid-1900's, as well as constant floods and continually silting of the harbors, Toucheng quickly lost its importance economically and fell into decay. 
After residents of Turtle Island were relocated to Daxi in Toucheng, Daxi Harbor was expanded and has become one of the largest fishing harbors in the area. 
Due to its close proximity to Taipei, Toucheng has become a major tourist area and may be the most popular surfing location in Taiwan. 

How to get there:
By TRA: Take the TRA to any of the stations in Toucheng, 
By Car: From Taipei, take National Freeway 5 to Toucheng. Be careful to note that on Sundays there are highway controls for cars travelling from Yilan to Taipei from 3 PM to 8 PM, so avoid travelling back to Taipei at that time to beat the traffic. 

Map:
See below for a map of places that are covered in this blog:

Taipingshan (aka Taipingshan National Forest Recreational Area 太平山國家森林游樂區) is a magical mountain paradise in Datong Township of Yilan County in Taiwan. It has an old Japanese era logging railroad track which has mostly been abandoned, but part of it has been restored with a working train. In addition there are hot springs, Taiwan's largest alpine lake, hikes, wildlife, and endless mountain scenery to explore.
 
Background:
In 1906, the Japanese Indigenous affairs police officers sent a team of men to Fanfan Mountain, where they discovered huge ancient cypress trees. Later the Japanese renamed the area Taipingshan, and began logging the mountain in 1915.
The Taipingshan Forest Railway was completed in 1934 and had at least 12 stations, with the grade up the mountain ranging from 2-3%. Loggers relied heavily on wires and pulley systems to haul logs to the railway, which differentiates it from the Alishan Railway. Because of the extensive use of wires or iron donkeys, it was difficult to convert the entire railway to a tourist railway, therefore only a short section at Maosing remains for tourists. 
The logging industry continued in Taiwan until it was banned in the 1980s, after which the area was converted into a forest recreation area in 1983 and opened to the public.
The mountains in Taipingshan range from 500 to 2000 meters high, and is part of the northern central mountain range. The highest peak here is Nanhu Mountain at 3,740 meters high. The terrain generally consists of high mountains and deep valleys, which have been pushed up by the convergence of the Eurasian and Philippine plates, and eroded by torrential rains.
Taipingshan is 12,929 hectares, and includes six major areas: Tuchang, Jioujhihze, Jhongjian, Taipingshan, Maosing and Cueifong Lake.
Taipingshan holds the record for 24 hour rainfall in Taiwan of 1015 mm, recorded in 2016 during Typhoon Megi. The area is also one of the most accessible places in Taiwan to see snow during winter.
The forest recreation area is now a popular place for nature enthusiasts and hikers, and is one of the top three most popular forest recreation areas in Taiwan.
 
Hours:
6 AM to 8 PM (open 4 AM on weekends)

Price:
150 NT for non-holidays, 200 NT for holidays
Cars: 100 NT
Scooters: 20 NT
Jioujhize Hot Springs: 250 NT in winter and 150 NT in summer
Bong Bong Train: 180 NT
For more info click here.
 
Website:
https://tps.forest.gov.tw/
 
How to get there：
By Bus: Kuo-kuang departs from Yiland and Luodong at 7:40 and 8 AM, and arrives at Taipingshan at 10:30 AM. The bus then departs Taipingshan at 2:30 PM.
By Car: From Taipei, take National Freeway 5 to Yilan, then turn southwest on provincial highway 7 until you reach the turnoff to Taipingshan via Yijhuan Route 1.
 
Map:
Please see below of the places covered in this blog:

Fanfan Hot Spring is a popular hot spring in Yingshi Village, Datong Township, Yilan County. It is one of the most easily accessible wild hot springs in Taiwan, so it sees many visitors year round. If you are in the area, you should consider taking a dip here.

Background:
The area around Fanfan Hot Spring has been inhabited by the Atayal tribe for thousands of years. Originally the river where the hot springs lay was called Bonbon by the local indigenous people, but later the spelling was changed to "Fanfan" because of Han Chinese people in the area who misheard the name. 
Fanfan Hot Springs is part of the Xueshan Mountain Range, which was pushed up from the collision of the Eurasian and Philippine plate. The hot springs come from heated water caused from metamorphic rocks under pressure deep within the earth.

Hours:
24/7

How to get there:
By Bus: From Yilan Bus Station, take bus 1744 about one hour to Fanfan Station. The hot springs are about a 20 minute walk away.
By Car/Scooter: From downtown Yilan, take provincial higway 7 southwest to Siji Elementary School Yingshi Branch, in Yingshi village. There is parking at the elementary school. The hot springs are about a 15 minute walk away.

Map:
Please see below:

Toucheng Old Street (officially Heping Street 和平街) is the oldest street in Yilan, dating back to the Qing Dynasty. It was once the economic center of Yilan, but it's importance was later replaced. Now it sits as a monument to the past, with few changes as compared to its former glory. It's definitely worth a stop on your trip through Yilan. 

Background:
Before Chinese settlers came, the area around Toucheng was inhabited by the Ketagalan Aboriginal tribe, whose language is now extinct.
The name Toucheng literally means "first town" in Chinese, because it was the first settlement in Yilan, settled in the late 1700s. With the nearby Wushih and Touwei Harbors around the same time, it became the economic focal point of Yilan. However in the late 1800s and early 1900s Wushih Harbor and Touwei Harbor silted in, reducing their function.
With the advent of the Japanese built Yilan railway line in the mid-1900's, as well as constant floods and continually silting of the harbors, Toucheng Old Street quickly lost its importance economically and fell into decay.
The old street has two temples, the major one being Toucheng Qingyuan Temple (頭城慶元宮) which dates back to 1796.
Currently the old street is a moderately popular tourist attraction with only a few shops. 

Hours:
24/7

Price:
Free

How to get there:
By Car: Take national highway 5 east to Yilan and then turn north to Toucheng. There is free parking near the community development center (頭城鎮港口社區發展協會), and the beach is just a short walk from there. 
By Train: Take the TRA to Wai'ao train station. It's about an hour ride from Taipei. From Wai'ao station, the beach is literally just a few steps away. 
​
Map:
Please see below:

Wai'ao Beach (aka Gangao Beach 港澳沙灘, or Wai'ao Ocean Recreation Area 外澳海水浴場) in Toucheng township of Yilan County is one of the most popular surfing destinations in Taiwan. It features a long flat sandy beach and constant waves. It is also a special beach in Taiwan because you have a constant view of another island in the distance, Turtle Island. It is definitely a great beach worth visiting.

Background:
The name Wai'ao Beach comes from "Wai (meaning outside)" of the "Ao (meaning harbor),"  because the beach is just past Wushi Harbor. 
The beach has constant waves and many surf shops and showers nearby. 
The beach is usually kept pretty clean and there are umbrellas that you can rent. 
The sand is a darker color which means it can get hot in the sun.
Due to the convenient transportation to the beach, it has become one of the most popular beach destinations in northern Taiwan.

Hours:
24/7

Price:
Free:

How to get there:
By Car: Take national highway 5 east to Yilan and then turn north to Toucheng. There is free parking near the community development center (頭城鎮港口社區發展協會), and the beach is just a short walk from there. 
By Train: Take the TRA to Wai'ao train station. It's about an hour ride from Taipei. From Wai'ao station, the beach is literally just a few steps away. 

Map:
See below:

Nanao Old Trail (aka Nanao Historic Trail or Nanao Old Raod) is a historic hiking trail in Yilan County, Taiwan. It was once a major route for the Ayatal aboriginal tribe, and was improved by during the Japanese colonial era. Now you can hike only a small section of the original trail, but you can still see beautiful mountainous scenes, rivers, and wildlife, as well as appreciate the history here.

Background:
Nanao Old trail was an important trail built by the Ayatal Indigenous Tribe in Taiwan to connect villages in the mountains of Yilan.
In 1874, the Qing Dynasty blasted a road through Ayatal lands from Yilan to Hualien, but after a few years they were unable to maintain it due to constant attacks from the Ayatal tribesmen. Therefore the road was soon abandoned. 
During the Japaneses era in the early 1900s, the Japanese pacified the local people, and improved the Nanao Old Trail and set up police stations and checkpoints along the road to better control the native population and obtain resources in the area. The road stretched 27.5KM from Nanao to Datong Township. 
After the ROC took control of Taiwan, the trail was opened for recreational purposes.
In 2012, most of the trail was closed due to damage from Typhoon Saola (蘇拉), and has never been fully repaired. Now only 3 kilometers of the original trail remain open to the public.
 
Hours:
24/7

Price:
Free
​
Length:
3KM one way, about 3 hours

How to get there:
By Car/Scooter: Take the Suhua Highway to Wuta, the turn west on Wutabuluo Communication Raod (武塔部落聯絡道), and keep going up the mountain valley until you reach the very end of the road. The trail starts there.
By Train: You can take a train to Wuta Station, and then walk or take a taxi 11 KM to the trailhead. But then you need to think how you will get back.

Map:
Please see below:

Su'ao's Crayon Castle (officially Luck Arts Crayon Factory) is a crayon factory castle in Su'Ao township in Yilan County, that has been specifically designed as a DIY experience center for kids where they can make their own arts and crafts, as well as their own set of markers, and crayon in the shape of Taiwan! The DIY activities include making markers and crayons, face painting, painting porcelain, making chalk, and water coloring. Basically, it is a paradise for young children. 

Background:
The Lucky Art corporation started in Yilan in 1990, and has four factories worldwide, two in Taiwan, and one in Shanghai and Vietnam. 
The factory in Yilan produces over 1.5 million crayons per day.
In 2008, the Lucky Art corporation opened its tourist crayon factory, which now sees more than 200,000 visitors per year. 
In 2017, the crayon castle was expanded to double its size, and added a parking lot that can accommodate over 200 cars. 

Price:
General DIY (4 activities and 100 NT coupon): 250 NT per person
Chalk DIY: 150 NT per person
Watercolor DIY: 350 NT per person
Paint Porcelain: 160 NT per person
Price for children under 90 CM: free
Parking: Free

Hours:
8:30 AM to 6PM
(Tickets not sold after 4 PM. Sessions every half hour.)

How to get there:
By Car: Take National Freeway 5 south until it ends. You will see the Crayon Factory on your right as the road becomes the Haishan West Road. 
By Train: Take the TRA to Xinma Station (新馬站) and then walk or take a taxi the remaining 500 meters to the crayon factory. 

Map:
Please see below: