Kuolai Old Trail was a major intersection along the Danlan Old Trail that connects Keelung to Yilan through the mountains of New Taipei. There are three pedestrian bridges, multiple camping locations, lots of swimming spots, and beautiful views of the surrounding mountains. Also, there are some great hiking trails along multiple sections of the original Danlan Old Trail to discover.
Background: Kuolai was originally a small village create in the late Qing Dynasty. In the early days during the Qing Dynasty, the Han Chinese settlers here mainly grew tea and leeks. During the Qing Dynasty, Kuolai was an important stop along the Danlan Old Trail (淡蘭古道 which means the road between Tamsui and Yilan), which was split into three paths, and Kuolai was on the middle path. The middle path winded from Nuannuan to Shifen, then to Kuolai, and then finally over the mountains to Wai'ao in Yilan. Part of section connecting Kuolai to Wai'ao through Wantan is known as the Wantan Old Trail. Kuolai also intersects with the Beishi River Old Trail which connects Shuangxi to Pinglin. During the Japanese Era until the 1980s, the major industry in the area besides tea growing was coal mining, The coal mining industry winded down in the 1980s and 90s in Taiwan. Currently Kuolai is a popular stop near National Highway 5 in northern Pinglin. Besides the history, there is also some great hiking trails and scenery nearby. Price: Free Hours: About 8 AM to 5 PM. How to get there: By Car: Go east on National Freeway 5, then get off at the Pinglin interchange. Continue north east on Pingshuang Road, which follows the Beishi River Old Trail. You can find the many suspension bridges on the side of the road. By Scooter: From Taipei, take highway 106 east from Shenkeng toward Shiding, pass over the mountain to Pinglin, then once in Pinglin continue north east on Pingshuang Road, which follows the Beishi River Old Trail. You can find the many suspension bridges on the side of the road. By Bus: From Taipei City Call MRT station, you can take bus 912 to Bafenliao Station, the switch to bus 923 to Pinglin Station. The ride should take about 2 hours. From Pinglin, you can take the F721 bus up along the Beishi River Old Trail. This will take up a lot of time. Map: Please see below. Our Journey: I have been through Kuolai four times. It is a unique place in Northern Taiwan, and resembles more of southern Taiwan due to the tall mountains, huge valley, and large river. It is a fun place to go camping, hiking, or river tracing.
Check out our drone video above for an overview of the area.
Also, check out 360 degree spherical panoramas of the three suspension bridges on the trail below: Huliaotan Suspension Bridge 虎寮潭吊橋
Cishihu Suspension Bridge 粗石斛吊橋
Kuolai Suspension Bridge 闊瀨吊橋
Okay, let's get started. 
Last week, I posted about Pinglin Old Street, which you can read here. You could say Pinglin Old Street is the beginning of the Beishei River Old Trail, which connects to the Kuolai Old Trail.
Statue of Guanyin overlooking Pinglin.
If you want to get to Kuolai, you want to go on the west (left) side of the river. The road on the right side goes to a few campgrounds and then ends prematurely in the mountains. Don't make the same mistake I did.
But there are some nice views along the Beishi River from the east side.
A level tea field along the road. After this the road pretty much ends.
You will want to go on the west side of the river. Again, go up the west side of the river.
There is a popular swimming spot under Highway 5 here.
There are also many swimming and camping spots along the Beishi River. Also as you can see in the background there is an elevated bike path the goes along the west side of the river for quite a ways.
Huliaotan Suspension Bridge 虎寮潭吊橋 
The first suspension bridge you will run across with Huliaotan Suspension Bridge.
There is a concrete bridge built right next to it, and a campground nearby.
Another view from the riverside.
View of the large white suspension bridge, the largest of the three along the Beishi River.
View from on top.
View looking up river.
View looking down river.
Only 13 people are allowed on the bridge at a time,
A mountain cottage below.
Another view as the sun came out.
Cishihu Suspension Bridge 粗石斛吊橋 
The second bridge you will come across is Cihushi. You have to go all the way to the end of the road to another campground before you reach the bridge.
View of the bridge from the other side.
If you keep travelling up the Beishi River, you will most definitely see some amazing mountain scenes.
Another view as the sun came out.
Dashe Lake 大舌湖 
Dashe Lake, literally meaning "big tongue lake" is a slow moving part of the Beishi River that looks like a great place to swim.
View of Dashe Lake from higher up. The road stops there and you have to go up and around to get to Kuolai.
More tea plantations in the mountains near Kuolai.
Guifeichi 貴妃池 
Guifeichi is one of the most accessible swimming holes in Kuolai, it is right next to the road.
You can park right here and walk down.
Of course the city warns you that swimming here is forbidden.
View of the main pool and waterfall at Guifeichi.
Another view from above. Someone was fishing there that day.
More tea fields in Kuolai.
To get to Kuolai Suspension bridge, I had to pass in front of someone's private property. Luckily there were no loose dogs to stop me.
The path to the Kuolai Suspension bridge starts at that property and winds along the river a short ways.
As you can see, there are lots of old trails near Kuolai, such as Wantan Old Trail, Beishi River Old Trail, Fangshankeng Old Trail, Zhongshankeng Old Trail, and Bengshankeng Old Trail. There are nearly endless hiking trails here that could keep you occupied for days. All of these trails were part of the historic Danlan Old Trail system and are full of historical sites.
Kuolai happens to be the intersection between all of these trails, and is a great central starting and ending point for hikers. Kuolai Suspension Bridge 闊瀨吊橋 
View underneath Kuolai Suspension Bridge.
Another side view of the bridge.
View on top of the bridge. Once you cross the bridge, you will find yourself at the Kuolai Police station.
View looking up river.
View looking down river.
View of people on the trail via drone.
Old abandoned stone house along Pingshuang Road.
View of the Beishi River Valley near the border with Pingxi.
More tea fields higher up the mountain.
A small tea growing village.
More tea fields and earthworks.
Here's a bonus video, our scooter ride from Pingxi to Pinglin.
View of Taipei from the border of Shiding and Pinglin.
Another view from near the same spot. You can barely see the 101 in the background.
View of Yangminshan from the border of Pinglin.
Overall, Pinglin is a wonderful mountain paradise that you can explore endlessly, especially if you enjoy hiking. Thanks and be sure to stay tuned on more of our blogs to come.
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Author 作家We are US Expats that have extensive experience living, working, and travelling in Taiwan. In our day, we had to learn many things about Taiwan the hard way. But we have come to learn that Taiwan is one of the best places in the world for Foreigners to live. Our blog does not represent the opinions of every foreigner in Taiwan. We are just trying to help others learn more about this beautiful country. Archives 檔案
November 2020
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