Xiaoliuqiu (aka Little Liuqiu, Lamay Island, or Lambai Island) is a small island paradise off the southwestern coast of Taiwan. The island is known for its clear water, amazing coral reefs, white sand beaches, and quiet laid back atmosphere. Only a short half hour boat ride from the Taiwan mainland, the island is easily accessible. In addition, the island is small enough that you can round the entire island by scooter in a matter of minutes.
Background: In 1622, a Dutch ship crashed on the island, two years before the Dutch began to rule Taiwan, and all but one of the crew members were killed by the aboriginal tribe living on the island at the time. In retaliation, the Dutch sent a force to massacre the natives on the island. 300 men, women, and children were suffocated alive in a large cave, and the rest of the people were put into slavery by the Dutch. This was known as the Lamey Island Massacre. Later Chinese people began inhabiting the island in 1645. Later the island fell into Qing, Japanese, and ROC rule. Currently the island is a township of Pingtung County with a population of over 10,000 people. Most of the people on the island rely on fishing and tourism for a living. The island also has one of the largest concentrations of temples in Taiwan. Xiaoliuqiu started to become a major tourist destination after 2004, reaching over 400,000 tourists per year. Regulated Inter-tidal Zones: in 2015 restrictions were placed on the inter-tidal zones in Xiaoliuqiu so that only those with a licensed guide could visit them and swimming is prohibited. These restrictions apply specifically to the Dafu Harbor inter-tidal zone (north of Dafu Harbor), Yanziping Beach, and the Shanfu Harbor Inter-tidal zone (north of Shanfu Harbor). Although there are other inter-tidal zones, these are not regulated. How to get there: The only way to get there is via ferry from Donggang's Dongliu Ferry Terminal. The ferry ride takes about 30 minutes. There is a ferry leaving from Donggang roughly every hour from 7 AM to 5 PM. Parking: There is free scooter parking and paid car parking at the fishing harbor (30 NT per car), but the fishing harbor does not allow overnight parking. Overnight parking near the fishing harbor can cost up to 180 NT per day, so consider parking further away if you want to save money on parking. Public transport: There are many shuttles to and from Zuoying HSR station that leave hourly. The cost is about 200-300 NT per trip. Price: Ferry ride: about 410 NT per round trip, about 30 minutes. The public ferry goes to Dafu Fishing Harbor (大福漁港), and private ferries go to Baishawei Fishing Harbor (白沙尾漁港). There are ferries that leave at least hourly from about 8 AM to 5:00 PM. Scooter rental: about 300 NT per day. There is a gas station on the back side of the island. Snorkeling: about 300 NT per hour Scuba diving: around 2500 NT for 2-3 hours You can purchase a tickets at Donggang Fishing Harbor (東港漁港), or through a tour agency such as My Taiwan Tour or a similar website. When to go: Anytime! Xiaoliuqiu is a tropical island that has warm water and temperatures (above 25 degrees Celsius) year round. However it is a little cooler and more windy during the winter, and you should be sure to avoid Typhoons during summer (ferries will be cancelled if there is a Typhoon). However, it can get really crowded during summer break in July-August, so go during the off-season to avoid the crowds. Map: Please see below:
Our Journey: Places we will cover in this blog:
Let's get started!
For an overview of the island, check out our drone footage above. There are about 13 sea turtles in this video. Can you find them all?
We have visited Xiaoliuqiu three times, once in 2014, once in 2016, and once in 2020. I'm going to try to blend all these trips into one blog post. When we first drove to Donggang 東港 in May 2014, we were not quite sure which boat to take to get there. Parking was cheap, only 30 NT per day (no overnight parking), which was fine because we only came for a day trip. We ended up taking the private ferryboat over. While buying tickets, a lady asked us if we wanted to rent scooters, and set us up with her friend who rents scooters on the island. We paid her right then, which seemed shady but it worked out. In October 2016, we visited for two days, and drove a scooter to the ferry dock. We parked our scooter near the ferry with no problems. We bought tickets and rented scooters when we got there with no problems. In September 2020 we visited for four days. We drove by car to the ferry dock. I learned on the spot that the cheap 30 NT parking was not allowed overnight. So I went to the nearest parking garage which was 180 NT per day, but a nice man there at the entrance talked me into parking in his driveway for 500 NT for four days. We barely made the ferry on time, which for some reason was late 30 minutes (usually the ferries are always on time). We booked our ferry ticket and scooter together with 999 scooter rental (Mandarin skills required), so it was a total of 1950 NT for two adult round trip tickets, a child round trip ticket, and scooter rental for four days. I thought it was a good deal. 
In 2014 The boat ride was crowded and somewhat slow, but we made it to the island safe and sound. Right when we got off the boat, the scooter rental people found us and took us to our scooters. It was 300 NT per scooter, which is very cheap for scooter rental. The scooter people didn’t even look at our licenses, and they said themselves that helmets were not required. However, the second time we visited the rental shops all required us to wear helmets because the police had recently cracked down on tourists. We rode around the island on our scooters and saw everything from the shops to the beaches to more beaches and some restaurants. The weather was great every single time we went! Be aware that a few places require an entrance ticket. Also some restaurants can be little more expensive than one would expect in Kaohsiung, but some are cheaper too.
Snorkeling 浮潛 Xiaoliuqiu has some of the best snorkeling (浮潛 Fú qiǎn) in Taiwan. There are snorkeling rental shops and tours all over the island, the usual price being 300 NT for an hour tour per person. If you don't know where to go, ask your hostel owner and they will be able to hook you up. 
Our snorkeling session in 2016 only lasted 30 minutes, but it was an unforgettable, once in a lifetime kind of experience. We went to Meirendong (美人洞), a beach we will cover further in this blog.
We just chose a random snorkeling shop near the center of town (there are snorkeling shops literally everywhere on the island). A typhoon had just passed through so we were afraid that there would be an ocean warning, but luckily we were able to get in the water and snorkel.
And of course we saw a sea turtle! In fact, you will probably see one too. Xiaoliuqiu has some of the highest concentrations of sea turtles in the world. But don'e get too close to them or touch them, because you could face a hefty fine. These are endangered animals.
Our guide fed bread to the fish to keep them close.
More fish, including some clown fish.
After only an hour of snorkeling I got a little sea sick. We were holding onto a life raft and bobbing up and down with the waves, which did not sit well with my stomach, so we hit the beach. The lesson here being is find a day with calmer waters to go snorkeling especially if you get sea sick easily. Gebanwan 蛤板灣 
Gebanwan is my favorite beach in Taiwan and has some of the best sand. Technically it is an intertidal zone, but there is no control station here yet. You can come and go without a guide. So just make sure you don't touch or step on any intertidal sea creatures, or you could face a fine.
Check out our drone video above for an overview of the area.
Or check out the 360 degree spherical panorama above.
Unfortunately on our trip in 2020, the road down to Gebanwan was under construction so we could only view it via drone. But that didn't stop some other people from trespassing. Here are some photos from our trip in 2014: 
The best beach on the island is Gebanwan 蛤版灣, which has perfect white sand. There is also some cheap showers next to the small temple in the picture above.
We first visited Gebanwan in 2014 and it was the highlight of our trip. Later in 2015 restrictions were placed on the inter-tidal zones in Xiaoliuqiu so that only those with a licensed guide could visit them and swimming is prohibited. This is to protect the sea creatures in the inter-tidal zones. Although Gebanwan is an inter-tidal zone, it is not regulated, but in general it is not very safe to swim here. It is a really nice beach though. 
Snorkeling in the crystal clear water at Gebanwan.
Soaking in the rays.
Later a group of Taiwanese tourists came, and in typical Taiwanese fashion walked into the water with all of their normal clothes still on.
Beautiful white sand on Gebanwan Beach.
I could count the people who actually brought swimwear on one hand. This is because Taiwanese people are afraid of tanning and showing skin.
View to the north of the beach.
Two fisherman fishing just off shore.
Another fisherman looking discouraged.
We forgot sunscreen.
Random poses.
Small lobster in the sand.
Container ships on the horizon.
Views of Gebanwan from the road above.
A sea turtle I captured with a drone in Gebanwan.
White Lighthouse 白燈塔 
There was a nice lighthouse at the top of the island but not much of a view. All in all we had a fun time.
"White Lighthouse"
"The White Lighthouse also called Liuqiu lighthouse stands on the top of a hill in southwestern Liuqiu at 22' 12'48' north latitude and 120' 21'55' east longitude. It was built in 1929. The lighthouse is white in color and round in shape, and is made of concrete. It is 10 meters tall from base to tip, and flashes each 2.2 seconds day and night. The light can be seen up to 20 nautical miles away. Like the lighthouse at Eluanbi, it helps guide ships navigating through the Taiwan Strait and the Bashi Channel, and is thus an international lighthouse. Under the bright sun, the white lighthouse stands out vividly against the blue sky, presenting a very different impression from its bright flashes of light at night." 
View from the top of the lighthouse.
Some bamboo had fallen over in the latest typhoon, blocking the road to the lighthouse.
Hundred Year Old Banyan Tree (百年老榕樹) 
The hundred year old banyan tree (百年老榕樹) near the lighthouse. It's worth a look. There is also a temple and sometimes people sell trinkets and snacks here.
Haizikou Harbor 海子口漁港 
Fisherman trying to make a living on the rocky coral shores of Haizikou Harbor (海子口漁港). There is not really good swimming or snorkeling here, but some nice views.
More fisherman on one of the island's many piers.
Shanfu Fishing Harbor (杉福漁港) 
The three of us in 2014, which has become the blog's logo. There is a nice swimming spot there called Shanfu Fishing Harbor (杉福漁港) with a small beach and showers, that you can see in the background.
I think the most fun part about that island was us just randomly driving all around on those scooters, and going full throttle down the streets.
Check out our drone video above for an overview of the area.
Or check out the 360 degree spherical panorama above.
Shanfu is a great swimming spot with usually calm water. You can also watch the sunset here.
A fish I photographed underwater in the harbor.
Two sea turtles in Shanfu Harbor as seen from the air.
To the left of the harbor is a great snorkeling destination.
View of the harbor from the pier.
Sunset at Shanfu Harbor.
Shanfu Intertidal Zone 杉福潮間帶 
To the right of the harbor is one of the three intertidal zones that is controlled. You will need a guide to visit this place, in order to protect the sea creatures here.
Shanfu Ecological Trail (杉福生態廊道) 
The Shanfu Ecological Trail is a short trail that follows an old military bunker, and has a great view of the ocean.
Original the trail here went from Shanfu Harbor to the bunker and beyond, but is now closed off.
"Guide to Shanfu Ecology Corridor" "The Shanfyu Ecology Corridor runs for more than 400 meters between Duzaiping and Shanfu fishing Harbor. In the old days its entrance was a restricted gun emplacement; military control has been removed now, but the space inside is still well preserved. The trail follows the seashore all the way, giving visitors access to all kinds of special sea-eroded landscapes such as pillars, notches, and potholes. The path is lined by the coastal vegetation such as the beach morning glory, necklace pod, Timor allophylus, silver messerschmidia, and beach naupaka, which not only add color to the sea-eroded terrain but also attract all kinds of insects. When the tide is out this is an excellent place of observing the intertidal life including crustaceans, mollusks, fish, and waterfowl. In addition, the trail faces to the west, making it perfect for watching the sunset from Liuqiu." 
Entrance to the old gun emplacement.
Coral walls down into the bunker.
Old military codes written on the walls in the bunker.
Looking out the bunker to the ocean.
Another view of the courtyard outside the bunker. There used to be a trail the goes further out from here but now it is closed off.
View looking back to the bunker.
Flower Vase Rock (花瓶石)
Flower Vase Rock is perhaps the most recognizable rock formation in Xiaoliuqiu, and it is often used as the symbol of the island for its unique shape.
Check out our drone video above for an overview of the area.
Or check out our 360 degree panorama above.
Baishawei Harbor 白沙尾漁港 
Baishawei is the main harbor on the island. Near this harbor you can find the most food, scooter rentals, and boat tours.
Zhong'ao Beach (中澳沙灘) 
Zhong'ao beach is one of the best beaches on the island. However the water is a little deep and the waves are big too. It is also a popular spot for Kayaking.
Check out our drone video above for an overview of the area.
Yuchengwei Intertidal Zone (漁埕尾潮間帶) 
Yuchengwei is another one of the three controlled interitidal zones in Xiaoliuqiu. You will need a guide to visit here.
Yuwei Harbor (魚福漁港) 
Yuwei Harbor is small but is a popular take off spot for snorkelers.
There is also a small beach to the right which is not controlled.
Lobster Cave (龍蝦洞) 
Xiaoliuqiu Aquarium (小琉球海生館) 
The Xiaoliuqiu Aquarium is new and is the only aquarium on the island. There are some giant lobsters, horshoe crabs, tiny sharks, and tide pools that you can touch.
Price: 160 NT per person. Was it worth it? I think so. It was a fun part of the trip since we didn't do any serious snorkeling in 2020. 
Sunrise Pavilion (旭日亭) 
87 Highlands (八七高地)
The highest point on Xiaoliuqiu is 87 highlands. There is a hiking trail here, or like me you can fly a drone here to see the view.
Check out our drone video above for an overview of the area.
Or check out the 360 degree spherical panorama above.
Dafu Harbor (大福漁港) 
Dafu Harbor is the second largest harbor on the island. There is a government run ferry that comes here, and there are places to rent scooters here too.
Dafuting Natural Swimming Pool (大福亭天然游泳池) 
Secret Beach (秘密沙灘) 
Secret beach is a small stretch of sand on the southern tip of the island. As you can tell, it's not really secret at all. But the water is usually always nice and calm here.
Check out our drone video above for an overview of the area.
Yongan Bridge 永安橋 
Sunset Pavilion (落日亭) 
Lanhai Pavilion (藍海亭) 
Lanhai is an even better place to watch the sunset in my opinion.
Devil's Cave (烏鬼洞) 
Devil's cave is a small cave on the south side of the island.
Legend has it that some aborigines' were burned alive in this cave after the Lamay Island Massacre (see above).
Wild Boar Trench (Sanzhu Trench) Ecological Trail 三豬溝生態步道 
Shanzhugou Trail is a small trail near Devil's cave where you can see a large "trench" between the coral rocks. A ticket here can also take you the Devil's Cave and Meirendong.
Meirendong (Beauty Cave 美人洞) 
Meirondong is a great little beach and snorkeling spot. There are also some nice beach side trails nearby.
Check out our drone video above for an overview of the area.
Duzaiping Beach (肚仔坪) 
Duzaiping Beach is the third and final regulated inter-tidal zone on Xiaoliuqiu.
Tourist Information Center (游客中心) 
Food (食物) 
More on this to come. Hopefully I will have the rest of this finished by the end of today. Check back in a few hours. Sorry!
Now the rest of the blog is the post Typhoon wreckage of 2016. 
Broken down fence after typhoon Nepartak in 2016.
Same fence repaired (or removed) in 2020.
Fallen trees after Nepartak.
There is also interesting geology along the coastline, as you can see from the sign above.
We can get close to the cliffs now, right?
Waves beating against the cliffs on the north side of the island.
Map of the ocean base points around Taiwan
Artwork destroyed by Nepartak.
Reef coastline.
More coral coastline. There is a special teapot rock that a lot of people take photos of near here, but I did not take a picture. Oh wait I did.
Sunset pavilion, the best place for seeing the sunset on the island.
Looking back to the Taiwan mainland from the sunrise pavilion.
Sunset over the Taiwan Strait.
Sun peaking out of the clouds.
View of Kaohsiung from Sunset pavilion.
View of mainland Taiwan at night.
Ships passing in the night.
One place that stuck out to me was a mango ice place that served their ice in sea shells, as well as providing sea shell spoons (海の家貝殼海藻冰 address: No. 61, Minsheng Rd, Liuqiu Township, Pingtung County, 929). They also had savory seafood flavored ice, which was weird. Also there was the usual street markets that you would expect to find in Taiwan with any Taiwanese food you could ask for. We almost got lost trying to find the port home; there are three different harbors on the island, and it took us a while to find the third one. But we eventually made it back, wishing we had stayed longer. For more, check out this blog by JSB, or go check out the island for yourself! You will not regret it.
2 Comments
Eunice
3/5/2019 01:07:56 am
Hi! We are planning to go next week. Im wondering if its worth it or if we better off some other place. Im reading lots of review but their rating are mostly “OK” or “Good”. I might get disappointed.
Foreigners in Taiwan
3/11/2019 07:20:22 pm
Yes it’s worth it! It is the secret gem of Taiwan and has the best snorkeling. Leave a Reply. |
Author 作家We are US Expats that have extensive experience living, working, and travelling in Taiwan. In our day, we had to learn many things about Taiwan the hard way. But we have come to learn that Taiwan is one of the best places in the world for Foreigners to live. Our blog does not represent the opinions of every foreigner in Taiwan. We are just trying to help others learn more about this beautiful country. Archives 檔案
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