First off I would like to warn everyone that the road from Xinyi to Yushan is blocked off from 6:30pm-6:30am for rock fall control. We had to drive around Alishan which added 4 hours of driving to our trip.
首先我要提醒大家，由於石頭掉落，從信義到玉山的道路從早上六點半到六點半被封鎖。我們不得不在阿里山周圍另外駕車四個小時。

That being said, let me tell you about our one day hike of the tallest mountain in Taiwan and East Asia (okay, East Asia is debatable, but it sounds better).
I know that I am not the first person to have climbed Jade Mountain in a day, but it seems like no one has blogged about it in English in a while. The last blog I found about hiking it in one day is from 2012, so I would like to give everyone some more recent info about the hike. I will also walk you through our experience with help with meticulous time notes compiled by my climbing partner.
說到這裡，讓我告訴你我們有一天在台灣和東亞最高的山上徒步旅行。好吧，東亞的領域是有爭議的，但聽起來不錯。
我知道我不是第一個單攻爬上玉山的人，但是沒有什麽人會用英語寫這樣的博客。我發現的最後一個單攻博客是從2012年，所以我想給大家最新信息。我也會通過我的攀登合作夥伴編寫的細緻筆記，幫助您了解我們的經驗。

Applying for permits 申請許可證:
This is perhaps the most difficult part of hiking Jade Mountain. In Taiwan, mountain and park permits are required to limit fatalities and help with rescue on the mountain. Originally we planned to do a two day hike and stay at Paiyun Lodge, but we realized we didn’t have time to wait; my climbing partner is going to get a Master’s degree in America at the beginning of next year, and Jade Mountain is closed for normal hikers from January to March. Also, I wanted to take as few days off from work as possible, so we opted for the one day hike, which is easier to get approved for if you meet the qualifications.
這也許這是爬玉山最難的部分。本來我們打算做兩天的爬行，在排雲山莊過夜，但是我們意識到我們沒有時間等待。我的攀岩夥伴將在明年初在美國開始讀研究所，1月至3月期間，玉山將關閉山。另外，我想盡可能地少休息幾天，所以我們選擇了一天的徒步旅行，如果你符合條件，那麼這個旅行更容易獲得批准。

The mountain permit  and park entry permit can both be applied for online. Some special requirements for the day hike though are that you must have experience climbing mountains above 3000 meters in the past 5 years. All you have to do is upload a picture of yourself on top of a mountain above 3000 meters and tell them which mountain it was. Also, you must give the park personal information such as name, age, and ID or passport number.
入山證和入園證都可以在線上申請。單攻特別要求過去5年3000米以上的爬山經驗。所有你需要做的就是傳一張你自己在3000米以上的山頂照片，告訴他們是哪一座山。此外，您必須提供個人信息，姓名，年齡，身份證或護照號碼。

As with Paiyun Lodge, the day hike also requires a lottery process, but there are a lot less people who apply for it, so getting a spot is easier. We originally planned for Dec. 19th, but later the Jade Mountain Park service called us and told us that spots had opened up on the 18th, so we switched.
跟排雲山莊一樣，白天的徒步旅行也需要抽排，但是申請的人少得多，所以得到一個位子比較容易。我們原本計劃在十九號，但後來玉山公園的服務員給我們打電話，告訴我們十八號也可，所以我們換了。

Preparation 準備:
I had brought some my climbing gear from America, such as hiking boots, wool socks, hat, fleece pants, and gloves. I didn’t have any polyester long underwear, which I regretted later. My main food for the trip was 6 chocolate Costco muffins, which was too much. I only ate 2 ½. I also brought 3000 cc of water, although this may have been excessive as well because I’m sure you can fill up water at Paiyun lodge. 
我帶了一些從美國來的登山裝備，如登山靴，羊毛襪，帽子，羊毛褲和手套。我沒有任何聚酯長內衣，因此後來我感到後悔。我此行的主要食物是6個巧克力Costco碼分，太多了。我只吃了2½。我也帶了3000 CC的水，雖然這也可能是過度的，因為我相信你可以在排雲山莊加滿水。

Also, because Jade Mountain had snowed the week before we left, we rented some crampons, not because we needed them but because we feared the park service would reject our climb if we didn’t have them (we ended up not needing them).
另外，因為我們離開前一個星期玉山下了雪，所以我們租了一些冰爪，不是因為我們需要它，而是因為我們擔心如果我們沒有它們（我們后來不需要它們），公園服務會拒絕我們的攀登。


The Adventure 冒險:

Day 0: Dec. 17th, 2017
12:40 Met at Nangang Station and departed 南港車站集合，出發
15:05 Exited off the Mingjian Interchange 從名間交流道下來

(updated below on 1/15/2019)
A few months ago we wrote a blog about the Songshan Sanatorium Superintendent’s Dormitory, a Japanese era building that is one of the best preserved in Taipei, which is sitting and rotting while the Taipei government figures out funding for its renovation. We were interested to find the actual sanatorium itself, and if it even still existed. It was not easy to find or easy to get to, but we did eventually find it…at least the part of it that is still standing.
 
I would love to tell everyone where it is, but as it lays on private and protected property; we will not disclose the explicit location. With the help of clues from other blogs and historical photos, we found it abandoned on private property that has 24/7 surveillance.
 
We did not find a single English article on this building, except in statistical research of the hospital facilities at the time. The building itself is not mentioned as a historical building registry of Taipei.
 
History:
 
The original Japanese style, two-story, wooden Sanatorium was constructed in 1915 during the Japanese colonial period of Taiwan. Here is a picture of the original wooden Sanatorium (on the left), and the existing concrete extension: Also, here is a photo of the staff in front of the wooden Sanatorium during the Japanese colonial period. A Japanese Physician was assigned as superintendent, and his dormitory was built nearby (松山療養所所長宿舍）, which is now the best preserved and most well-known building connected to the Sanatorium.

The Sanatorium’s main purpose was to treat mentally disabled patients, and later was turned into a center to cure tuberculosis. It has had multiple names through the ages, beginning with松山錫口養生院 (Songshan Xikou Health Hospital), and then changed to 松山療養所 (Songshan Sanatorium) in 1925. When the ROC took control, its changed name was changed again to 台灣省立松山療養院, (Taiwan Provincial Songshan Sanatorium) in 1946, with the first superintendent being Yang TianMu (楊添木). It was also known as (or part of it was) 治肺結核療養所 (Tuberculosis Treatment Sanatorium). 

Here are a few historical photos of the original wooden sanatorium, with surrounding fields, hills, and lakes. Lakes surrounded the area around what is now the Sanatorium. (Image taken fromhere, dated 1931) 

 Nowadays those lakes are mostly filled in, with Nangang Park and an Army base taking their place. There is still one lake left that is much smaller now due to silting. (Image above taken from here, dated 1916).
 
The original Japanese style wooden Sanatorium building sat on the west side of a prominent hill that at the time. The building had 29 beds in 1915, then the capacity expanded to 72 in 1933.
The cement building that remains was built in the 30s or 40s, probably around the time the Sanatorium’s capacity was expanded. Here is a video that shows changes to the Sanatorium overtime:

From old maps I can tell that the original wooden building was torn down by 1972 in favor of a new cement building, probably for the Ministry of Health and Welfare. Another brick building behind the current cement structure was built around 1965. At the same time, a group of Japanese era buildings below the hill were also torn down to build what is now the administrative buildings for the Ministry of Health and Welfare. By 2014 another historical building that sat in front of the now cement Sanatorium was torn down and the whole place was turned into a parking lot. All the buildings on the lot seemed to be abandoned when I was there. I assume that the whole plot of land now serves as a parking lot for the employees that work at the Ministry of Health and Welfare.

The intricate and beautiful two storey Japanese era wooden Sanatorium was torn down around 1972, so all that is left to photograph is the concrete expansion to the Sanatorium.

For more historical background, see our 1/15/2019 update below.
 
Our Visit:
I visited the existing building at night, avoiding most of the employees that park there during the day time. The whole building is completely boarded up with sheet metal, with no way to peek inside. 

There is also a lock and wooden boards blocking the main entrance. 

On the entrance is spray painted "please do not park at the entrance," I guess they come in and out of it often? Perhaps it is used as a storage shed.

Again, all windows are completely shielded shut.

That car in the corner seemed to be abandoned as well.

There is an address plate still on the outer wall of the Sanatorium. You can see the Taipei 101 from the top of the hill. I’m sure in its time the surrounding lakes, mountains, and Taipei in the distance must have been a beautiful sight for all the patients in the Sanatorium

I ended my tour with a peek into the abandoned building behind the Sanatorium, the one that was built in about 1965. Perhaps this is what the innards of the Sanatorium look like? Probably not, but we may never know. I am not sure the significance of this building, but maybe I will visit again during the daytime when I can take some decent photos.

Conclusion:
 
As with the Sanatorium Superintendent’s Dormitory, I think Taipei City and the Ministry of Health and Welfare want to keep this building hidden and secret. If this building were considered a historical building, then they would be forced to renovate and be burdened with pulling money out of their budget to fix up the place. I’m surprised that the building has not been knocked over earlier to make more room for parking space.
 
We apologize that we have given so little information about the Sanatorium, but there are very limited resources. We’ll be sure to update this blog we learn of anything further.

Update: 1/15/2019

We are sad to announce that as of January 13th, 2019 the Songshan Sanatorium has been unlawfully leveled to the ground. Below is a news piece on the building:

We also visited ground zero after being informed of its destruction.

The Sanatorium has been flattened to the ground, separated into different piles of bricks, metal, and wood.

The parking lot in front of the demolished building is full to the brim. You can tell some people would like the parking lot expanded.

Pile of bricks and wood with the old sheet metal in the background.

Precious Japanese era woodwork torn to pieces. 

More wood and metal wire in a heap.

Metal bracing is piled into a heap on one side.

Why was the Songshan Sanatorium torn down?

The Songshan Sanatorium sat in a protected vacant lot on the near the Ministry of Health and Welfare headquarters. Most people that passed by would never have seen it, because it was protected by tree cover at the top of a hill, and because of that not many people studied it or ever even thought about it.

On October 8th, 2018 the Ministry of Culture head Tsai-Zongxiong (蔡宗雄) convened a cultural assessment on the building, which included three cultural information committee members (probably administrative employees at the ministry of culture). After their assessment they concluded that the Songshan Sanatorium had no cultural value. NO  CULTURAL VALUE!!!
Although they saw the building was well preserved, they were unsure of the date it was built, and so not special features in the building. The information they had led them to believe the building was built in 1970 (when the building was registered as an ROC ministry of health building). However, as you can see from by blog above, this building was built in around 1940 during the Japanese occupation of Taiwan.

On the morning of January 12th, Assistant Professor at National Taipei University of Business Hsiao Wenjie (蕭文杰) heard through a Facebook group that the building was soon to be knocked down, and rushed to the building site. Knowing the building's true historic value, he called upon the ministry of culture to enact Article 20 of the Cultural Heritage Preservation Act, which states that "historic buildings...undergoing the review under any of Articles 17 to 19 shall be deemed as interim monuments." 
The ministry of culture agreed in word and said that construction would stop. Professor Hsiao waited at the scene for 5 hours, standing in the way of the excavator to stop the destruction, however the Ministry of Culture officials never arrived (it was a Saturday after all). 
During that time, professor Hsiao sent some live video of the insides of the building that had been closed off to the public (also seen in the news clip above). He filmed a catwalk structure on the roof, showed that the room numbers still preserved, and that an intricate era woodwork that was well preserved on the roof of the building.
After never receiving word from the Ministry of culture, the demolition continued. However, Hsiao's video had already gone viral and the public was made aware of the demolition that was supposed to be kept a secret.

So why was the Sanitarium torn down so quickly? As I said in my original blog, probably someone at the Ministry of health and welfare wanted more parking space.

​How was the Demolition Unlawful?

In the video above, Mayor of Taipei Ke-Wenzhe responds to professor Hsiao's attacks by saying "These procedures all followed SOP, I don't know what he's so mad about." WRONG! these procedures did NOT follow SOP, let's list the unlawful/unethical parts of the ministry of culture's actions here:

• The Ministry of Culture representatives that performed the cultural assessment based their finding on incorrect dates, and lack of sufficient historical information (information on this building is hard to come by, I had to look at an old scan of a book). The building did have cultural value.
• The cultural assessment did not include a public announcement on the MOC website, as prescribed by the Cultural Heritage Preservation Act Article 17. This was the most clear violation of the law.
• The Ministry of Culture did not follow up to stop the building destruction according to article 20 of the Cultural Heritage Preservation Act.
• The Taipei City Government has gone to great lengths to preserve the Songshan Sanatorium Superintendent's Dormitory, so it follows that they should put the same effort to preserve the actual Sanatorium!
• The Executive Yuan spent 670 million NT to preserve a similar complex, Losheng Sanatorium in Xinzhaung, New Taipei.

Why was the Songshan Sanatorium Culturally Important?

Much of the history and background of the building has come to the public's attention after it's destruction, thanks to Professor Hsiao andnews agencies in Taiwan. I was missing many of the details when I first made by blog in 2017, but here they are (in addition to my blog) as follows:

• After 1906, thousands of people were dying every year from tuberculosis in Taiwan
• Songshan Sanatorium was originally built in 1915, originally named Xikou (錫口) Health Center, to cure tuberculosis in the growing Taipei area.
• In 1925 it's name was changed to Songshan Sanatorium
• In 1946 it's name was changed to Taiwan Province Songshan Sanatorium, as the starting point for using modern techniques for curing tuberculosis in Taiwan!
• The building featured closed off rooms in which patients could recover, closed off from the outside world. The site was also prime because there was fresh air and constant sunshine.
• Many improvements and much research was made in the curing of tuberculosis in this building, providing major contributions to Taiwan's medical and research history.

What did the Songshan Sanatorium look like on the inside?
Please see the video professor Hsiao made here for a full view of the insides.

• The building  had an intricate wooden roof (see the video above and photos in the news story here), featuring a cat walk that was used for maintenance, and iron braces and beams holding the wooden roof together.
• The building was made of Japanese era brick with cement cover
• The room numbers in the Sanatorium were all well preserved
• The rooms inside the building were sealed off from one another and featured wide glass windows, which were all well preserved.

Our Thoughts:

On Sunday afternoon Jan. 13th I got a message on Facebook from someone telling me that the Sanatorium had been destroyed. After watching the emotional video of professor Hsiao standing in the way of the back hoe as well as cursing the Ministry of Culture, I was very deeply emotionally moved. It felt like a good friend had just died. It was unjust. You can count the historical buildings in Nangang on ONE HAND, and they just decided to destroy perhaps the most historically important building in the whole district. They should have preserved the building for future generations. I told professor Hsiao that if I has known earlier, I would have stood by his side blocking the way of the excavator.

It was an honor to have photographed and researched this building before it was destroyed. Looking back it was truly special to photograph an important historical building that is now gone forever. I was reached out to by UDN to provide the photographs from my blog, because literally no one else had any modern photographs of the building on the internet. I have done my part to help preserve Taiwan's past, but I wish I could have done more. It makes me think, what if I had been more proactive on getting the word out that this building exists and is important? Would it still be standing today? 

I hope the ministry of culture employees like the parking lot they traded in for a unrepeatable historic monument. After all, a parking space in Taipei runs from around 2 million NT upwards, which is almost enough to buy you a house in Kaohsiung. 
​
The most ironic and hypocritical part of this whole story is that the Taipei City Government went to such extreme lengths to preserve the Songshan Sanitarium Superintendent's Dormitory, but decided that the actual Sanatorium was of no worth. In fact, the Dormitory was worth so much, that the Taipei Government spent 1.4 million NT per ping on the last parcel of land remaining on the property so that they could restore the house. I'll tell you why there is such a discrepancy, because the Dormitory is in plain sight from street view, but no one could see the Sanatorium on top of the hill behind a parking gate!
The bigger crime here that no one is talking about is that the ROC government tore down the main wooden sanatorium building that sat at the top of the hill during the martial law period, which was truly beautiful and more significant that what we have now. In its place they build two ugly ROC era cement buildings that are way passed their prime and sit in disuse next to what was once the Sanatorium. 

It is clear that the Ministry of Culture and Ke-Wenzhe  don't care about historical buildings in Taiwan, especially if the buildings are not in public view. It is clear to see that they tried to pass an inspection and have the building destroyed behind closed doors. No one knew the building existed in the first place so no one would care right? Thank goodness for professor Hsiao.
Ke-wenzhe of all people should appreciate medical history of Taiwan, and the historically important contributions that were made in this building to curing and treating tuberculosis. 
But at the end of the day it is clear the Ke-Wenzhe and Culture Minister Tsai-Zongxiong have other budget concerns, so getting rid of an old building is just one less thing to pay for and to worry about (after all, the government spent 670 million NT preserving Losheng Sanatorium). What we are teaching our children in Taiwan is that money is more important than preserving our heritage.

It's sad that the Taiwan government didn't see the value in this historically building. I can understand I would be expensive to renovate and upkeep, but it was very wrong to try to secretly knock it down. If they would have promoted it to the public and international community and let then know of its importance, it might have just paid for itself one day.

​All photos credit to Stephanie Huffman and Candace Chen
Though the form for which the island is named is readily apparent from angles further north and south, from Toucheng pier due west, Turtle Island looks more slug-like than terrapin-shaped. A small and curving rock covered in green, the island – like all points on the horizon – grows larger and more distinctive as our boat draws closer. There are about sixty people on the Blue Whale, all wearing bright orange life jackets and hoping to catch a glimpse of the dolphins sometimes spotted frolicking around the island. The boat takes its time along the island’s southern end, a steep hill dotted with carved outcroppings.
所有的照片都歸功於Stephanie Huffman和Candace Chen
儘管從南面和南面的角度，西面的頭城碼頭，這個島嶼的名稱是顯而易見的，但是龜山島看起來比鱉魚更像是瓜牛的樣子。 隨著我們的船靠近，一個綠色的小彎曲的岩石，像島上所有的點 - 越來越大，更加鮮明。 “藍鯨”上有六十人左右，都穿著明亮的橙色救生衣，希望能看到有時在島上嬉鬧的海豚。 船沿著島的南端，一個陡峭的小山，點綴著雕刻的露頭。
 
“Are those lookout points?”, asks Stephanie. I point to the long, faded green barrel of a cannon just sticking out of one of the outcropping. “Among other things,” I answer. As with many of Taiwan’s outer islands, military utility took precedence over tourism for many years.
Stephanie問道：“那些瞭望點？ 我指著長長的，褪色的大砲剛剛露出的一個大砲。 “還有其他用處，”我回答。 和台灣的許多外島一樣，軍事用途多年來一直以旅遊業為主。

​The smell of sulfur, a gentle rotten egg fragrance fills the air as the Blue Whale approaches the underwater thermal springs bubbling from beneath the waves by the Turtle’s head. Steam rising from the water makes it seem like the beast is smoking some great underwater hooka. As our boat rounds the Turtle’s head, the gentle green curves of the island’s Taiwan-facing side give way to the rocky cliffs of its seaward side, which in parts look almost as if the process of collapsing into the sea are ongoing.
當藍鯨靠近烏的龜頭部下方的海浪冒出的水下溫泉時，硫磺的味道瀰漫著一股溫和的臭雞蛋香味。從水中冒出的蒸汽使得它看起來像野獸正在吸取一些偉大的水下鉤子。當我們的船繞著海龜的頭時，島的台灣邊柔和的綠色曲線讓位於海邊的岩石峭壁，這部分看起來好像正在進入海洋的過程。
 
From this angle, Turtle Island is far more foreboding. Over the boat’s loudspeaker, the guide explains in Mandarin that the seaward side of the volcanic island takes the brunt of the area’s regular typhoons, and that some of the more rugged cliffs were formed by earthquakes. Past the cliffs the landscape becomes more gentle, and with a bit of squinting I can almost see the long, sloping neck of the turtle connecting head to shell, all covered in green. Although I’m told there are hiking trails along the spine, no hikers are currently present.
從這個角度來看，龜山島更是不祥的預兆。在船上的揚聲器上，導遊用中文解釋說，火山島的海面受到該地區正常颱風的衝擊，一些較為崎嶇的懸崖是由地震形成的。過去的懸崖，景色變得更溫柔，有一點瞇眼，我幾乎可以看到連接頭部和殼體的烏龜的長長的，傾斜的脖子，全部被綠色覆蓋。儘管我被告知有沿著脊椎的徒步旅行路線，但目前沒有人爬山。
​
Though technically open to tourists as a maritime ecological park since 2000, tourism to the island is fairly restricted. Our friend Candice had applied for our landing permit nearly a month in advance, but of the other travelers on our boat only one couple from Taipei had done the same. It was a far smaller group that were permitted to disembark from the Whale at the boat dock that sits just to one side of the Turtle’s tail. Only when our names are checked against those on a list by a Coast Guard official are we allowed to cross the floating bridge connecting pier to island. The Blue Whale will head further out in search of dolphins while our small group would explore the area around the Turtle’s tail.
自2000年以來，雖然在技術上作為海上生態公園，也向遊客開放，但到島上旅遊受到相當多的限制。我們的朋友Candice已經提前一個月申請了我們的登陸許可證，但是其他船上的旅客，只有一對來自台北的夫婦也這樣做了。這是一個小得多的小組，被允許從坐在鯨魚尾巴一側的船塢的鯨魚下船。只有當我們的名字與海岸警衛隊官員的名單進行核對時，才允許我們穿越連接碼頭的浮橋。”藍鯨”會進一步尋找海豚，而我們的小組將探索烏龜尾巴周圍的區域。

​Our guide, Mr. Guo, brings us first to the island’s ranger station staffed by an older gentleman and lady. The woman is cheerful, and runs a small, well-stocked gift shop. The man’s semi-military attire suggests that he’s an official of some sort. He sits behind a long desk, empty except for six round, smooth stones arranged in the shape of a turtle.
“Can you guess what these are?” The man says, adding before anyone can reply: “That’s right! Turtle Eggs!”
我們的導遊郭先生把我們帶到了一位老先生和女士的護送站。這個女人很開朗，並且經營著一個小型的，儲備豐富的禮品店。這名男子的軍裝顯示他是某種官員。他坐在一張長桌子後面，除了六個圓形的光滑的石頭，排列成一個烏龜的形狀。
“你能猜到這是什麼嗎？”男人說，在沒有人回答之前補充說：“沒錯！龜蛋！“
 
I pick one up. The man’s claim is patently false. I wonder if he is just testing me to see if I, as a foreigner, am aware of the dual meaning of the term Turtle Egg in Mandarin. In China the term can be used as a pejorative.
“They’re stones,” I say.
“Ha ha ha ha!” The man’s voice booms through the room.” Of course you’re right…but they are laid out in the shape of a turtle!”
我挑一個。這名男子的說法顯然是虛假的。我不知道他是否只是在考驗我，看看我作為一個外國人是否意識到了中文的龜卵的雙重含義。在中國這個詞可以用作貶義詞。
“他們是石頭，”我說。
“哈哈哈哈！”男人的聲音在房間裡嗡嗡作響，“當然你是對的，但是它們是以烏龜的形狀擺放的！
 
 
He has the bearing of a man who knows well the lay of the land (and had much time for rock collecting). I ask him if there are any guest houses on Turtle Island, or if perhaps camping is allowed. He laughs again, even louder this time, as if willingly spending the night on this godforsaken rock was something people would pay for.
他擁有一個熟悉土地的人（並且有很多時間可以收集岩石）。我問他在龜山島有沒有民俗，或者是否允許露營。他又笑了起來，這次更大聲了，好像自願在這個被人遺忘的岩石上度過夜晚是人們付出的代價。
 
“No camping, no guest house.” He tells me. “Even I don’t sleep here.”    
Turtle Island wasn’t always uninhabited. Settlers began arriving in 1853, and by the early 1970s the small, flat plain on the part of the island facing Taiwan boasted a village with houses, a school, a fresh water spring, and even a temple. But in 1977, the villagers – then numbering around 700 – were relocated to the town of Toucheng in Yilan. The official story, according to both Guo (and the surprisingly well-translated English language displays in what’s left of the town itself) is that after a particularly bad typhoon which cut the village off from resupply for almost two weeks, the villagers agreed that life on the island had become unsustainable and moved willingly to the mainland as part of a deal negotiated with the government. Immediately thereafter Turtle Island was declared a restricted military zone, and of course it’s equally likely that the villagers’ relocation was not entirely as enthusiastically agreed-upon as our guide or the display suggests.
As it turned out, the island’s new inhabitants would come to wish that one particular Turtle Island resident had not joined the villagers’ exodus.
 “沒有露營，沒有民俗。”他告訴我。 “即使我不在這裡睡覺。”
龜山島並不總是無人居住。定居者於1853年開始抵達，到70年代初，面向台灣的島嶼上的一片平坦的小平原吹起了一座有房屋，有學校，淡水泉，甚至還有一座寺廟的村莊。但是在1977年，當時的村民大約700人，搬到了宜蘭頭城鎮。據郭（以及在鎮上留下的驚人翻譯的英文）顯示，官方的故事是，在一個特別糟糕的颱風將村莊補給了近兩週的時間之後，村民們同意，作為與政府談判的一部分，這個島上已經變得不可持續，願意向大陸轉移。此後，龜山島立即被宣佈為受限制的軍事區，當然，我們的指導或展示所表明的那樣，村民搬遷的可能性也不盡如人意。
事實證明，島上的新居民會希望一個特定的海龜島居民沒有加入村民的外流。

​Guo takes us to a temple, a small one by Taiwanese standards, but one that’s clearly been maintained to weather the elements. “Can you guess whose temple this is?” he asks.
“Matsu,” I answer. It seems a sensible guess. A temple built on a small island by people whose livelihoods depend on the sea would naturally offer prayers to the Goddess of the Sea. But I am simultaneously right and wrong.
郭先生將我們帶到了一個按照台灣標準來看的小寺廟，但是一個明顯被保留下來的寺廟可以抵禦這個因素。 “你能猜出這是哪個廟嗎？”他問。
“媽祖，”我回答。這似乎是一個明智的猜測。一個建在小島上的人們依靠海上生活的人自然會向海洋女神祈禱。但我同時對與錯。
 
Guo tells the tale of how the villagers, evicted from their island home, brought their goddess with them to their new village. Shortly thereafter, the military moved in. But in the months that followed, the new residents complained that a general malaise seemed to have crept into life on the island.
“After the villagers left, the weather was rougher than normal, and the soldiers now living on the island described feeling uneasy,” Guo tells us. “It was decided that having an empty temple was upsetting the very spirit of the island itself. The military brought a statue of Guanyin from Taiwan along with some priests, who re-consecrated the temple to the Goddess of Compassion and Mercy.”
According to Guo, things got better shortly after.
郭先生講述了被趕出島上的村民如何把他們的女神帶到新的村莊的故事。不久之後，軍方進來了。但是在接下來的幾個月裡，新居民抱怨說，島上似乎有一種全身不適的感覺。
“村民們離開後，天氣比平時更加粗糙，現在住在島上的士兵感到不安，”郭先生告訴我們。 “這是決定有一個空的寺廟是令人不安的島嶼本身的精神。軍方帶來台灣觀音像和一些祭司，把寺院重新奉獻給慈悲仁慈。
據郭先生介紹，事情不久後就好轉了。
 
 
Beneath the main statue in the Guanyin temple, there is also a lucky money tiger, where visitors exchange old coins for new while wishing for good fortune. Though the tiger is a simulacrum, Green Island’s other wildlife is not. The island is best-known for what lives in the waters surrounding it, from a species of crab that feeds on the sulfur coming from the underwater hot springs to a number of larger aquatic animals such as dolphins and killer whales.
在觀音廟的主雕像下面還有一隻幸運的金錢老虎，遊客在交換舊金幣的同時也希望得到好運。雖然老虎是一個模擬，但綠島的其他野生動物卻不是。這個小島以生活在周圍水域中的一種生物而聞名於世。這個小島由一種以水下溫泉產生的硫磺為原料的螃蟹，到一些大型的水生動物，如海豚和虎鯨。

​One animal endemic (some say epidemic) to turtle island are snakes, and signs warning visitors to be wary of venomous snakes greet us at various points along our journey. As we walk through the remains of the now-abandoned fishing village, Guo tells us his own version of a not-uncommon tale among the Taiwanese of Japanese snake-breeding experiments designed to create particularly venomous vipers, presumably to be used in battlefield situations. Having heard the story before, I already know where it’s going.
一個動物流行（有人說流行）龜山島是蛇，並警告遊客警惕蛇毒蛇在我們的旅程中的各個點上迎接我們。在我們走過現在被遺棄的漁村的遺跡時，郭先生向我們講述了他自己的一個日本蛇飼養實驗中的一個非常罕見的故事，這個實驗的目的是為了製造特別有毒的毒蛇，大概是在戰場上使用的。之前聽過這個故事，我已經知道他要講什麽。
 
“Of course, when the Japanese lost the war, they released all the snakes, which is why there are so many snakes on Turtle Island today,” Guo tells the group. Whether by nature or nurture, the snake population is clearly a concern to the people in charge of maintaining guest safety. In addition to the general Beware of Snakes signs posted throughout, part of a multilingual exhibit of text and photographs covering the history, geography and ecology of Turtle Island is specifically devoted to snakes, going into detail on their size, color patterns, aggressiveness and venom level. The display is sobering, and I find myself hoping that the ranger station has a well stocked anti-venom bar somewhere by the gift shop.       
 “當然，當日本人輸掉戰爭時，他們釋放了所有的蛇，這就是今天龜山島上有這麼多蛇的原因。無論是自然還是培育，蛇的種群顯然都是維護客人安全的人們關心的問題。除了一般“小心蛇”標誌外，部分多語種文字和照片展示了龜山島的歷史，地理和生態，專門針對蛇，詳細介紹了它們的大小，顏色模式，侵略性和毒液水平。展示令人清醒，我發現自己希望護林員站在禮品店的某個地方有一個儲備豐富的防毒酒吧。

​We continue through the village, a lonely collection of a few crumbling stone houses and a newer barracks building built for the military, all built on the side of a brackish lake. I try to imagine children playing in the rock-paved streets and people living in the houses, now being used to store massive rolls of green mesh webbing used to gather stones to create the walls and levees that keep the high tides from inundating the island’s low-lying spots. Even with my imaginary life, the place still feels forlorn.  
我們繼續穿過這個村子，孤零零地收集幾座搖搖欲墜的石頭房屋和一個為軍隊建造的更新的軍營建築，全部建在半鹹水湖的一側。我試圖想像孩子們在岩石鋪就的街道和住在房子裡的人們玩耍，現在被用來儲存大量的綠色網狀織物，用來收集石頭，以創造牆壁和堤壩，防止高潮淹沒島上的低 - 點。即使在我想像的生活中，這個地方仍然感到孤獨。
 
Lack of time and hiking permits does not allow our small group to hike up the Turtle’s back, but Guo has a different kind of exploration planned for us. A short hike leads us to a tunnel entrance, next to which a few abandoned military-type buildings stand, broken doors revealing electronic equipment likely state of the art in the 1970s, including a stereo system, microphone and tape deck likely used to both facilitate communication throughout the island and keep up troop morale.  Another sign warns us to keep only to the main tunnel, and again to beware of snakes.  
缺少時間和爬山許可證不允許我們的小組加入龜背，但郭先生有一個不同的探索計劃。短暫的徒步旅行將我們帶到了一個隧道入口處，在那裡，幾座廢棄的軍用建築物立於其中，上世紀70年代破門而出的電子設備可能是最先進的，包括立體聲系統，麥克風和磁帶機，溝通整個島嶼，並保持軍隊士氣。另一個標誌警告我們能走在主隧道，並再次提防蛇。

“This is one of the tunnels built throughout the island for military defense purposes,” Guo tells us. The tunnel is long enough so that midway through, the only light comes from fluorescent tubes stuttering at even intervals; secondary tunnels branch off here and there, but, technically off limits to tourists in any event, unlit. Reaching the end of our tunnel, I realize that we are now inside one of the outcroppings that Stephanie had pointed out from the deck of the Whale. The 120mm naval gun makes clear the fact that observation is only one of the lookout’s purposes.      
“這是為了軍事防禦而在全島建造的隧道之一，”郭先生告訴我們。隧道足夠長，以至於在中途，唯一的光線來自熒光燈管，每隔一段時間，二級隧道在這里和那里分支，但是，技術上禁止遊客在任何情況下，熄燈。走到隧道的盡頭，我意識到我們現在正在斯蒂芬妮從鯨魚甲板上指出的露頭之一。 120毫米的海軍炮明確表明，觀察只是其中一個目的。
 
Guo shows some of the features of the area, from the swiveling gun turret to the shape of the ceiling, designed to dissipate the gun’s deafening boom. I try to imagine being among the conscripts assigned to man the lonely outcropping day in, day out, staring out over a patch of ocean that, in the eighties and nineties at least, seemed an unlikely spot for conflict. Our guide looks at his watch and tells us we’ll need to hurry if we’re to catch the boat back. We return through the tunnel and village, past the ranger station (now closed), and to the dock where the Blue Whaleawaits to return us to Taiwan, leaving Turtle Island uninhabited once more save for a few officials, an unknown number of snakes and whatever ghosts choose to remain behind beneath the watchful eye of the Goddess of Compassion, Mercy and Kindness.
郭先生顯示了該地區的一些特點，從旋轉砲塔到天花板的形狀，旨在消除槍聲震耳欲聾的繁榮。我試圖想像成為那些被派去孤軍奮戰的義務兵的日子，他們盯著一片海洋，至少在八十年代和九十年代，似乎不太可能發生衝突。我們的導遊看著他的手錶，告訴我們，如果我們要趕回船的話，我們需要快點。我們穿過隧道和村莊，經過巡邏車站（現已關閉），到“藍鯨”等待將我們送回台灣的碼頭，離開龜山島再次無人居住，還有一些官員，數不清的蛇，幽靈選擇留在慈悲善良女神的監視之下。
 
Our exploration focused mainly on culture and history, but Taiwan based author Richard Saunders writes lovingly about his 2010 Turtle Island Hiking trip at Taiwan Off The Beaten Track.  
Interested in visiting Turtle Island?  MyTaiwanTour will do its best to hook you up. (No promises though – permits need to be obtained in advance, and slots often fill up quick.)
我們的探索主要集中在文化和歷史上，但是台灣作家理查德·桑德斯（Richard Saunders）深情地寫下了他在台灣“Off The Beaten Track.  ”的2010年龜島徒步旅行。
有興趣參觀龜島嗎？ MyTaiwanTour將竭盡全力來吸引你。 （沒有任何承諾 - 許可證需要提前獲得，而且插槽通常會很快填滿。）

​(Guanyin, Snakes & History’s Ghosts: An Afternoon on Turtle Island 觀音，蛇和歷史：龜山島的一個下午之旅) originally ran at the MyTaiwanTour Journal.  All photos and text posted in the above blog were taken from https://www.mytaiwantour.com/blog/. Follow this link for more stories like this one!
 
Visiting Taiwan? Let MyTaiwanTour help curate your experience. Find them online at https://www.mytaiwantour.com/  

​（Guanyin, Snakes & History’s Ghosts: An Afternoon on Turtle Island 觀音，蛇和歷史：龜山島的一個下午之旅）最初跑在MyTaiwanTour學報。 https://www.mytaiwantour.com/blog/. 點擊此鏈接獲得更多這樣的故事！
 
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