Hsinchu's Beimen Street is the oldest merchant street in Hsinchu, dating back to the Kindom of Tungming. Due to the completion of the railway and urban planning in the Japanese area, this street lost its importance, but many historical buildings here are still intact. It is one of the most impressive historical sites in Hsinchu and is worth a visit for anyone in the area.
Background: After the settlement of the area by Han Chinese farmers in about 1711 during the Kingdom of Tungming, what was then known as Zhuqianshe became the most important economic area in northern Taiwan. By 1723, a walled city was built here out of bamboo, because brick walls were forbidden for fear of a revolt against the Qing authorities. The name Zhuqiancheng (竹塹城) literally means bamboo moat city. The bamboo-walled city had four gates and its perimeter was about 1.4 KM long. In 1806, the city was upgraded with earthen walls. Beimen Street literally means North Gate Street, because it used to lead out to the north gate of the city, toward Bangka (modern Taipei), along the main road linking northern Taiwan. It was the most important economic area in Hsinchu until the end of the Qing Dynasty. Goods were brought from the old harbor to this street, where they were then distributed to other places nearby. Unfortunately, a fire took place here in 1901 which destroyed much of the original old wooden structures. After Japan took control of Taiwan, they created a new urban plan for the city. which moved the city center about 500 meters to the south around the East Gate. This along with the new Hsinchu TRA station meant that Beimen Street would gradually lose its economic importance. However many rich families still based their livelihood on this street, including the Beimen Gentry. There was also an incident during WWII when allied bombers attacked a mansion on the street, mistaking it for the Japanese governor's mansion. Hours: 24/7, but I recommend visiting at night when the night market it open. Price: Free How to get there: The old street is within walking distance of Hsinchu TRA station. Map: Please see below:
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Hsinchu City God Temple, or Chenghuang Temple, dates back to the Kingdom of Tungming and was built in the middle of the old bamboo-walled city of Zhuqian. Currently, it is the religious center of the city and also has its own night market. It is one of the most impressive historical sites in Hsinchu and is worth a visit for anyone in the area.
Background: After the settlement of the area by Han Chinese farmers in about 1711 during the Kingdom of Tungming, what was then known as Zhuqianshe became the most important economic area in northern Taiwan. By 1723, a walled city was built here out of bamboo, because brick walls were forbidden for fear of a revolt against the Qing authorities. The name Zhuqiancheng (竹塹城) literally means bamboo moat city. The bamboo-walled city had four gates and its perimeter was about 1.4 KM long. In 1806, the city was upgraded with earthen walls. In 1748, the Chenghuang City God temple was completed, being built in the center of the city. The temple was refurbished and restored in 1792, 1799, and 1924. In 1891, the Guangxu Emporer visited Taiwan and held a prayer meeting here. He left a plaque that still stands today which reads "Golden Gate Protection (金門保障)," which is meant that the temple would provide protection to the entire island of Taiwan. The temple also features six different halls. Parades and activities are held regularly at the temple. There is also a night market that surrounds the temple known as the Chenghuang Temple Night Market (新竹市城隍廟夜市). Hours: 24/7, but I recommend visiting at night when the night market is open. Price: Free How to get there: The temple is within walking distance of Hsinchu TRA station. Map: Please see below:
Beipu Old Street is a popular old street in Beipu Township of Hsinchu county. Once an economic center for tea production, as well as coal mining in the area, later it became well-known for its traditional Hakka cuisine. Currently, the old street is crowded with tourists on weekends who come for treats such as Persimmon cakes and Taro Mooncakes.
Background: The area around Beipu was first inhabited by Saysiyat Aboriginal peoples and was first settled by Han Chinese farmers in 1835. A wall of bamboo was built around the city to ward off attacks from Aboriginals. Later during the Japanese era, Beipu housed an experimental tea farm. Later in the ROC era, coal mining became the main economic activity nearby. Also, provincial highway 3 was built to skirt around the town, which meant that many shops decided to move off the old street. However, due to the many delicious Hakka snacks sold and restaurants on the old street, Beipu still attracted many tourists. Famous historical buildings along the old street include Jinguangfu Mansion, Shui A-Hsin Mansion, and Beipu Citian Temple. A period TV drama series called "Gold Leaf 茶金" was filmed here, based on novel by Huanh Kuo-hua, filmed in 2021. It went on to receive 16 nominations at the Golden Bell Awards. Maybe you have heard of it. It's on Netflix. Now Beipu Old Street has become a popular tourist location and can be very crowded on weekends. Hours: 9 AM to 5:30 PM every day. Price: Free How to get there: By car/scooter: Take highway 122 or expressway 68 to Zhudong, then turn south on Provincial Highway 3. The Old Street is hard to miss in the center of Beipu. There is free parking on the side of the road outside the old street. By bus: From Zhudong TRA station, you can take the 5700 shuttle bus to the old street, which takes about 20 minutes. Map: Please see below:
Yilan is a gem on Taiwan's northeast coast. It has rugged mountains, waterfalls, a flat coastal plain, a volcanic island, hot springs, and some of the best beaches in Taiwan. In addition you can find night markets, seafood markets, museums, and much more to explore here. It is definitely worth a stop on your next trip to Taiwan.
Historical Background of Yilan: Before Chinese settlers came, the area around Yilan was inhabited by the Ketagalan Aboriginal tribe, whose language is now extinct. The name Yilan comes from this language. The town Toucheng literally means "first town" in Chinese, because it was the first settlement in Yilan, settled in the late 1700s. With the nearby Wushih and Touwei Harbors around the same time, it became the economic focal point of Yilan. However, in the late 1800s and early 1900s Wushih Harbor and Touwei Harbor silted in, reducing their function. With the advent of the Japanese-built Yilan railway line in the mid-1900's, as well as constant floods and continual silting of the harbors, Toucheng Old Street quickly lost its importance economically and fell into decay. The Japanese also built logging railways up to Taipingshan to harvest lumber. The first path between Yilan and Hualien was a trail built in the Qing Dynasty that was completed in 1876, in order for the Qing to better control aboriginal peoples on the east coast. Later after Japan took control of Taiwan, they widened the path and built 9 bridges and 14 tunnels along the way, making it drivable for cars (one way only) by 1932. Because much of the road was next to cliffs that underwent constant landslides, it was considered one of the most dangerous roads in the world at the time. In the 1980s the ROC government further widened the road, and the two-lane highway was completed in 1990. In 2020, the section of road between Su'ao and Dong'ao was bypassed by a tunnel. Currently Yilan has a population of over 450,000. An High-Speed Rail extension is planned for Yilan, and is expected to be completed by 2036. You can find a map of places we will cover in this blog below:
Nanfang'ao is the third-largest fishing harbor in Taiwan and is an important part of the local economy. Just above the harbor along the Suhua highway is an amazing lookout that gives a 180-degree view of southern Yilan, Su'ao, and the surrounding area. It is definitely worth a stop on your next trip to the east coast of Taiwan.
Background: The first path between Su'ao and Hualien was a trail built in the Qing Dynasty that was completed in 1876, for the Qing to better control aboriginal peoples on the east coast. Later after Japan took control of Taiwan, they widened the path and built 9 bridges and 14 tunnels along the way, making it drivable for cars (one way only) by 1932. Because much of the road was next to cliffs that underwent constant landslides, it was considered one of the most dangerous roads in the world at the time. In the 1980s the ROC government further widened the road, and the two-lane highway was completed in 1990. In 2020, the section of road between Su'ao and Dong'ao was bypassed by a tunnel. Nanfang'ao is the third-largest fishing harbor in Taiwan and is an important part of the local economy. There is a popular fish and seafood market there that is open from 3 PM to 5 PM every day at the harbor if you a fan of fresh seafood. Price: Free Hours: 24/7 How to get there: By Car/Scooter: From Su'ao or Dong'ao, take Highway 9 east along the coast. You will have to take a dangerous U-turn or left turn across double yellow lines if you come from Su'ao, so it is better to come from Dong'ao. By Bus: Take the Nanfang'ao Blue line to Nanjian Shopping Center (南建購物中心) then walk up the Nanfang'ao Lookout trail about 15 minutes to the lookout. Map: Please see below:
Hsinchu City's East Gate, or Yingxi Gate, is the last standing gate of the old walled city of Zhuqian, and also one of the last remnants of the entire city wall itself. It is one of the most impressive historical sites in Hsinchu and is worth a visit for anyone in the area.
Background: After the settlement of the area by Han Chinese farmers in about 1711, what was then known as Zhuqianshe became the most important economic area in northern Taiwan. By 1723, a walled city was built here out of bamboo, because brick walls were forbidden for fear of a revolt against the Qing authorities. The name Zhuqiancheng (竹塹城) literally means bamboo moat city. The bamboo-walled city had four gates and its perimeter was about 1.4 KM long. In 1806, the city was upgraded with earthen walls. In 1828, the city walls and gates were finally made into brick, with the perimeter covering 2.7 KM, and walls 5 meters high, the center of the city being the Chenghuang City God Temple. The east gate was known as Yingxi Gate (迎曦門), the west gate was known as Yishuang Gate (挹爽門), the South Gate was known as Gexun Gate (歌薰門), and the North Gate was known as Gengchen Gate (拱宸門). The east, west, and south gates all had cannons. There were also four main roads named after each gate. Outside the city, a moat was built. During the Opium Wars, another earthen half-circle of wall was built to fend off the English who had attacked the nearby. This earthen city was much bigger than the original brick city wall and included 8 more city gates. In 1901, the Japanese government decided to redesign the City of Hsinchu and destroyed all the gates and walls except the existing East Gate. Part of the old moat exists still as well. The East Gate has been preserved, recently being renovated in 1999, and has now been made into a park and square, as well as an art exhibition space. Hours: 24/7 Price: Free How to get there: The north gate is within walking distance of Hsinchu TRA station. There is limited paid parking nearby. Map: Please see below:
Four Four South Village (aka Forty-Four South Village) is a former military dependents village that has been converted into a cultural park in Xinyi District of Taipei City. Now it is home to cafes, arts and crafts stores, bookstores, and a community center. Also, it has great views of the Taipei 101. It is worth visiting if you are in the area.
Background: Four Four South Village was named and built for the 44th Arsenal of the Combined Logistics Command and their families in 1948, after the ROC military retreated to Taiwan following defeat in the Chinese Civil War. The houses were cheaply built out of wood, concrete, bamboo, and tiles. The houses were small, and everyone had to share a communal bathroom. There was also no running water when it was built. Part of the village was destroyed in a fire in 1999, and the whole village was planned to be demolished in 2001, but local residents and cultural experts persuaded the government to preserve part of the village as a cultural heritage site. Now it sits as an important historical site close to the Taipei 101. Hours: 24/7 Price: Free: How to get there: By MRT: Take the MRT red line to the Taipei 101/World Trade Center station. The village is just a short one minute walk south. By Car/Scooter: The village is just south of Xinyi Road, southwest of the Taipei 101. There is paid parking nearby. Map: Please see below:
For you expats or foreigners who have never left Taipei, Changhua is a large mostly rural county in central Taiwan. For years I myself never visited, because I didn't know what was there and had no reason to go. It turns out there are quite a few attractions here in this secret paradise.
Below I will list some of the best places in Changhua that I have visited. I will be sure to update this blog as I visit more places later. Historical Background: Before Han settlement, Changhua was inhabited by native peoples. During the Dutch era in Taiwan, a well was made to tap into the Zhuokou River water table. The Red Hair Well was made around 1611 by Dutch colonizers and was often used by Dutch soldiers and missionaries, During the Qing Dynasty, the city of Lukang became an important trading port, because of the depth of the water and the fact that it was closer to Fujian province than other cities in Taiwan. The main product shipped to Fujian was rice. In the 1800s, Lukang was Taiwan's second largest city, with as many as 20,000 residents, even more than Banka (modern day Taipei) and second only to Tainan. Later on, the port began to silt in, and the railroad bypassed the city, meaning that economic activity here went downhill. However because the city has changed so little in the past 200 years, it has become a cultural relic preserved from the past. The city also has over 200 temples. After the railroad was moved to Changhua City, it became the most important economic region in the county. Despite being the smallest county in Taiwan by area, Changhua County is the most populous county in Taiwan. It is often described as being part of the Taichung-Changhua metropolitan area. How to get around in Changhua? As always, we recommend renting a scooter as the best way to see Taiwan. However, you can also a great deal of Changhua by taking the train, inter-city bus, or local bus. Getting around in a car is also a convenient option as there is plenty of parking pretty much everywhere in this less crowded county. Map: You can see a map of all the places that we will visit in this blog below:
The Changhua TRA Dormitory Village is an abandoned village near Changhua Station that was used as housing for TRA employees and their families until 2004. It was originally set for demolition, but this did not happen due to local backlash. It still stands today abandoned, waiting to be renovated someday. It is the best preserved TRA dormitory area in Taiwan.
Background: The Changhua TRA Dormitory Village was completed in 1922, built by the Japanese after the completion of Taiwan's coastal railway line from Zhunan to Changhua, across from the Changhua Roundhouse. The village had a community hall, convenience store, barber shops, and air raid shelters. In 1958, the village was damaged by a Typhoon. Cement apartments began to be built here in 1970. In 2003, the occupants were required to leave, and the village was going to be demolished and turned into a park by the city in 2011. When demolition work was about to begin in 2014, a local group called Banxian Xinshenghui (半線新生會) started a protest, which was successful in stopping the demolition. This involved finding old residents and explaining the historical significance of the village to authorities. In 2018 the village was listed as a historical monument. However, as of 2021 the village still sits abandoned. Hours: 24/7 Price: Free How to get there: By Car/Scooter: From Changhua TRA station, travel north and turn left on Zhangmei Road Section 1. The village is on your left next to the train tracks. There is limited parking on the side of the road. By Train: The village is within five minute walking distance from Changhua TRA Station. Map: Please see below:
The Changhua Roundhouse is perhaps the last of its kind in Asia. It was originally made to turn steam locomotives around that could not reverse and repair/service them in the fan-shaped building. It is still in operation and is open to the public to visit for free.
Background: The Changhua Roundhouse was completed in 1922, built by the Japanese after the completion of Taiwan's coastal railway line from Zhunan to Changhua, in order to provide a place to repair and maintain locomotives. Originally the building only had 6 stalls, but later up to 12 stalls were built by 1933. The building was also bombed during American air raids during World War II. There were originally six roundhouses in Taiwan, but the others have all been demolished. The Changhua Roundhouse was also going to be demolished, but the voices of local people saved it from being destroyed. Later the building received historical monument status. Currently, the roundhouse has two steam locomotives ( CK124 and CK120) and two types of diesel locomotives (DT668, and DT650). The roundhouse is a popular spot for tourists on weekends. Hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 1 PM to 4 PM (open from 10 AM on weekends) Price: Free! How to get there: By Car/Scooter: From Changhua TRA station, travel north and turn left on Zhangmei Road Section 1. The roundhouse is on the left right next to the train tracks. There is limited parking on the side of the road. By Train: The roundhouse is within five minute walking distance from Changhua TRA Station. Map: Please see below:
The Anti Aircraft towers in Fanpo/Waipu Villages of Fuxing Township, Changhua County have stood the test of time to tell a tale of an earlier era when the Japanese were trying to ward off American air raid attacks in Taiwan. Quite a few towers still exist in what is now farmland in rural Changhua county, free for all passersby to see.
Historical Background: In about 1943 the Japanese decided to build a temporary airstrip that covered parts of Fanpo Village (番婆村古砲台) and Waipu Village (外埔村古砲台) of Fuxing Township, Changhua County. In order to build the airstrip, many local villagers were required to work night and day for many weeks. At the same time, anti-aircraft gun towers were built to protect the local people from bombs as well as provide firepower. The Americans did drop bombs in the area. After the war, the airstrip became pasture for cattle and became covered with weeds. Later it was converted into farmland. The villagers decided to keep the towers standing, probably because it would be hard to tear them down, because they provide a reminder of past times, and that the villagers were lucky to survive the many bombing raids near the village. Price: Free Hours: 24/7 How to get there: By car/scooter: Just south of highway 142 before you get to Lukang. The tower is easy to see next to the side of the road. By bus: From Changhua Station, you can take Changhua bus 6933A to Yingfa Company Bus Stop. The tower is then only a short walk away. Map: Please see below:
Baguanshan is perhaps the most famous religious site in Changhua, and has the best views of the city and the surrounding area. It is also known for its large buddha statue and viewing platform. There are also hiking trails and historical sights nearby. It is definitely worth a visit on your next trip to Changhua.
Background: Baguashan can literally be called "Eight Trigram Mountain" because Bagua means eight triangles placed together, which is said to ward off evil in Buddhism and Daoism. The mountain was named as a key battleground during the Lin Shuangwen Rebellion, in which a clan of Hakka people rebelled and was crushed by the Qing Dynasty. Later during the Japanese occupation of Taiwan, the mountain was used as a military base. During the ROC era, local resident Lin Qingyao built a temple here and a giant Buddha in 1956. A veteran's memorial martyr's shrine was also built by the ROC on the mountain. The mountain itself is only 97 meters above sea level but still provides great views because it is surrounded by flat land. The mountain is slowly rising and in millions of years will create a mountain chain. Price: Free How to get there: By car/scooter: Take provincial highway 1 to the foot of the mountain, then turn up. There is limited parking on the side of the road and two paid parking lots which can get full on weekends. By Train: The mountain is within ten minutes' walking distance from Changhua TRA station. Map: See below:
Baguashan Red Hair Well is one of the few surviving wells from the Dutch rule of Taiwan. It was an important place to get fresh water in the region and was used as a communal washing area for many local residents. Now it stands as a cultural heritage site for the citizens of Changhua.
Background: Because Changhua does not contain many fresh and clean sources of water, a well was made to tap into the Zhuokou River water table. The Red Hair Well was made around 1611 by Dutch colonizers and was often used by Dutch soldiers and missionaries, therefore it was called "Red Hair Well" by the local people. Later a small shrine was made here, and it became a popular spot for local women to make a living washing clothes, due to the good quality clean water here. Even though not many people wash clothes here anymore, if the water is cut off due to natural disasters, you will find many women come to wash clothes here instead. Later a metal lid was put over the well to stop children and leaves from falling in. In 2008, the well was made a historical monument. Price: Free Hours: 24/7 How to get there: By car/scooter: Take provincial highway 1 to Changhua. The well is at the bottom of Bagua Mountain. By Train: You can reach here by foot within 10 minutes of Changhua TRA station. Map: Please see below:
Changhua's Confucius Temple is one of the oldest Confucius Temples in Taiwan and one of the first Academies in Taiwan, dating back nearly 300 years ago. Today it is an important place for Confucian learning and a popular tourist attraction in Changhua.
Historical Background: The Changhua Confucius Temple was completed in 1726 during the Qing Dynasty, shortly after the Qing had taken control of western Taiwan. The construction was overseen by the magistrate of Changhua County, Zhang Gao. Later the temple was repaired in 1753 and later expanded. During the Japanese era, the Academy (Wen Miao) was used as a school. After the ROC took Taiwan, the temple was repaired in 1952 and Confucian ceremonies were held on a regular basis. Later the temple was renovated in 1978. The temple is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Changhua. Hours: 8:30 AM to 5 PM Price: Free How to get there: By Car/Scooter: From Changhua Train Station, drive south until you reach provincial highway 19, then turn left until you reach the temple. The temple will be on your left. There is limited paid parking nearby. By Train: From Changhua Train Station, the temple is within 10 minutes walking distance. Map: Please see below:
If you only have a few days in Taiwan and you want to go somewhere outside of Taipei, you should definitely go to Taroko National Park. On an island full of mountains, rain forests, beaches, and abounding natural beauty, Taroko might just take the top spot as the most beautiful scenic area in Taiwan.
Taroko National Park is well known for its amazing marble cliffs and canyons carved out by the Liwu River. It is also a popular spot for hiking, rafting, and river tracing. If you have the time, come to the East coast and see it. If you don't have time, then make some time! History and Background: Taroko National Park is well known for its marble cliffs and canyons, and is also known as "The Marble Gorge." Millions of years ago, the rock we see today was sediment at the bottom of the Pacific Ocean, but oceanic and tectonic pressure turned it into limestone, and later into marble. Later the Eurasian plate was uplifted where Taiwan is today, and a gorge was cut out of the limestone thanks to the Liwu River. Taroko means "human being," from the Truku tribal language. Originally the Tupido Tribe settled in the area of what is now Tianxiang Taiti mesa. They built the Tupido Tribe Trail which was only 30 cm wide, and resided there until they were massacred by the Japanese in 1914. In 1917, the Japanese expanded the original trail made by the Tupido Tribe to 1.5 M and forced aboriginal tribesmen to carry goods along the trail to the east coast. This is now the Zhuilu Old Trail. Currently only 3km of the trail is open to the public. The Japanese created a national park in the Area in 1937, which was disestablished by the ROC in 1945, and then reenstated in as a national park in 1986. How to get there: By Car: From Taipei, Take National Highway 5 to Yilan and then drive on the Suhua Highway 9 to Hualien. A few miles before Hualien City, the gorge will be on your right. By Train: Take the train to Hualien station, and from there you can rent a scooter or car, or take a tour bus to the gorge. For more travel information see here. Hours: 8:30AM-5PM (Zhuilu old trail is open from 7AM to 10PM). Flying a Drone? Apply for a drone permit here. Price: Free! (Except Zhuilu old trail, which is 200 NT per adult. See below for more info.) Map: Please see a map of the places mentioned in this blog below:
One of the best parts of Taiwan is it's cuisine, and one of the greatest forms of cuisine in Taiwan is hot pot. Basically it involves boiling meat and vegetables in a broth to eat. In particular, all you can eat hot pot buffets in Taiwan are a great way to get full, which can be divided into small hot pots, low end hot pot buffets, and high end hot pot buffets.
Background: Hot pot first originated in China in the Zhou Dynasty, and the traditional food making process has continued to this day. Hot pot exists in many forms, such as Mala (spicy) hot pot, Lamb Hot Pot, Beef Hot Pot, Seafood Hot Pot, Seafood Hot Pot, Stinky Tofu Hot Pot, etc. In Taiwan it is popular to add Shacha sauce and other hot sauces to mix with the cooked foods. In addition, most hot pot places will offer unlimited drinks, rice, and ice cream, while full buffets will offer all you can eat meats and vegetables, along with other hot foods and desserts. Hot pot is most popular during winter months when it is colder, but you will find a lot of people still eating hot pot in summer because it is so delicious. Price: Small hotpot (no buffet): 80-150 NT per pot Semi-buffet hotpot (free drinks, rice, and maybe ice cream): 100-200 NT per person Low-end full hotpot buffet (cheaper buffet items): 300-500 NT per person High-end hotpot buffet (more expensive higher quality buffet items): 500-2000 NT per person Popular Hot Pot Chains: Semi-buffet hot pot (free drinks, rice, and maybe ice cream): Sanma Stinky Hotpot 三媽臭臭鍋 Dahu Guoyin Hotpot 大呼過癮小火鍋 Low-end full hot pot buffet (cheaper buffet items): Shabu Shabu 千葉 (Qianye) Jixian Hotpot 極鮮火鍋 Xianyou Hotpot 鮮友火鍋 12 Hotpot 石二鍋 High-end hot pot buffet (more expensive higher quality buffet items): HaiDiLao Hotpot 海底撈火鍋 Xindian Hotpot 辛殿麻辣鍋 Leqi Hotpot 樂崎火鍋 There are basically countless hot pot restaurants and restaurant chains, more than I could ever list in this blog.
Fudekeng/Liuzhangli Graveyard is the largest graveyard area in Taipei, and also happens to provide amazing views of Wenshan and Xinyi Districts. Nearby you can also find many hiking trails. It is a great place for a bike ride or hike if you are not afraid of ghosts.
Background: Currently the Fudekeng Graveyard is run by the city of Taipei's funeral and cremation department which has over 200 employees. It started in 1942 under Japanese rule, and in 1945 it became a public cemetery. Due to many families making illegal structures to hold the remains of their ancestors, Taipei City allocated more and more land for graves in the 1950s to 1970s. There are two areas the provide mortuary services in Taipei: one near Xingtian Temple, and the other behind Fuzhoushan Park. Nowadays a funeral plot is very expensive, so most people choose to cremate their dead and keep them in Spirit Bone Towers. Hours: 24/7 Price: Free How to get there: By car/scooter: From central Taipei, drive on Heping East Road to MRT Liuzhangli Station, then head up Chongde Street. The graveyard lies all along this street. I do not recommend driving a car up there, the road is very narrow. During tomb sweeping festival, the roads are closed and you can only visit via shuttle bus. By Youbike: Get a Youbike from MRT Liuzhangli Station, then head up Chongde Street. The graveyard lies all along this street. By Bus: Bus S12 visits the cemetery. Map: Please see below:
Baiyun Police Station is an abandoned police station in Xizhi District of New Taipei that was first established during the Japanese era in Taiwan. Later it was used as an outpost as part of Taiwan's White Terror by KMT police who were looking for communist spies nearby, and ended up killing and imprisoned many innocent people. Currently it has been turned into a historical park for all to enjoy.
Background: Baiyun Police Station was completed in 1920 by the Japanese. It was also known as Shisanfen Police Station, because the area there was also known as Shisanfen at the time. The police station was also added on to in 1939. Two brothers, Chen Pen-chiang and Chen Tung-ho (陳通和), created an armed communist party holdout in the Luku village of Shiding District. They also organized a youth group consisting of underage villagers, however this group did not participate in any illicit activity. In response, on Dec. 28th, 1952, about 10,000 police officers and ROC armed soldiers used Baiyun Police Station as a base to raid the village over the space of four months, blocking off roads and arresting everyone while trying to remove the communists. Around 400 people in the surrounding areas were arrested, with 200 of those people being tortured and 35 killed. According to the Taipei Times: "Among the 200, 12 were not indicted or released for turning themselves in, while 98 were given prison sentences, 19 of whom were underage." Due to the terrible injustice dealt to the village and the surrounding people, the Luku Incident Memorial was erected in the year 2000. For more information on the incident, check out the articles written by the Taipei Times here and here. You can also check out the Wikipedia article in Chinese here. After use by the KMT, the police station was abandoned in 1980 and the roof collapsed. It was restored and the roof rebuilt in 2019. Currently it is a relatively unvisited historical site, but we did find a group of Instagrammers when we visited there. Hours: 24/7 Price: Free How to get there: By Car/Scooter: Travel south on Academia Sinica Road in Nangang, and then take Dongshi Street (東勢街) all the way up the mountain. The police station sits near border between Taipei City and New Taipei City, in between Forest Elementary School (森林小學) and Fuan Temple (福安宮) on Xiding Road (汐碇路). By Bus: You can also take bus F903 to this location, get off at Forest Elementary School stop. *note: if you get lost, look for the brown sign that says "白雲派出所" in Chinese on the side of the road. Map: Please see below:
Nangang's Bottle Cap Factory, now POPOP Taipei, was a Japanese era factory built 80 years ago and stopped production in 2004. Now it has been converted into a space for meetings, exhibitions, seminars, workshops, musical performances etc.
Background: Nangang's Bottle Cap Factory was built during the Japanese era in 1943, and continued operating until 2004, providing bottling parts for over 14 wine manufacturers. It was then abandoned until 2010 when Taipei City chose the spot for urban revitalization. The bottle cap factory renovation was completed in 2020. Currently there is space for meetings, exhibitions, seminars, workshops, musical performances, a night market, and more. On weekends it attracts hundreds of visitors especially when there are special events. Hours: 10 AM to 6 PM every day Price: Free How to get there: By Car/Scooter: Take Civic Boulevard or Nangang Road to Nangang Station. The bottle cap factory is just north of the station, across the street. There is paid parking at Nangang Station. By TRA/HSR/MRT: Take the TRA/HSR/MRT/inter-city bus to Nangang Station. The bottle cap factory is just north of the station, across the street. Map: Please see below:
The Qingshui Cliffs in Taroko National Park on the coast of Hualien are some of the most spectacular geological features in the country, and the world. The tallest peak on the cliffs is 2,408 meters (7,900 feet) above sea level, and drops straight into the Pacific Ocean. It is a spectacular sight to behold.
Background: Taroko National Park is well known for its marble cliffs and canyons, and is also known as "The Marble Gorge." Millions of years ago, the rock we see today was sediment at the bottom of the Pacific Ocean, but oceanic and tectonic pressure turned it into limestone, and later into marble. Later the Eurasian plate was uplifted where Taiwan is today, and the cliffs were lifted out of the ocean. The cliffs are subject to constant erosion and rockslides are common. The cliffs are roughly 12 KM long and rise to over 2400 meters. They are a popular scenic stop along the Suhua highway that connects Yiland and Hualien. Hours: 24/7 Price: Free: How to get there: By Car/Scooter: From Hualien, Take highway 9 north until you reach the Qingshui Cliff lookout. There are actually a number of places to see the cliffs. By Bus: There is no public bus to the cliffs. You will have to rent a scooter or take a tour bus.
Qixingtan is the best beach in Hualien City. It is a few KM long and also features a long grassy park next to it. It is famous for its oval shaped stones which tourists like to stack together. It is definitely worth as stop on your next trip to Hualien.
Background: Qixingtan gets its name because originally it was a lake close to the seashore, that was in the shape of the Big Dipper (or Qixing 七星, seven stars). During the Japanese era, the lake was filled in in order to make an airport, which is now used by the Taiwan air force.
Afterward, the residents instead called what before was Yueya Bay (月牙灣), a crescent beach nearby Qixingtan to honor their lost lake.
Qixingtan has now become a major tourist attraction, with thousands of visitors a year, and many hotels nearby. Hours: 24/7 Price: Free How to get there: Car/Scooter: From central Hualien, take highway 9 north until you reach past Mintou street and turn right. Keep going until you reach the beach. There is more parking at the middle and north sides. Bus: From central Hualien, you can take bus 308 to Hualien Manbo Park. The beach is just a short walk away. Map: Please see below:
Academia Sinica is the top research institution in Taiwan. It also borders a forest and has beautiful hiking trails where you can enjoy nature and see historical military sites. The area is worth a stroll if you have time.
Background: The trails I will show date back to when the ROC and KMT first retreated to Taiwan. They decided to set up a military compound in Nangang, including training facilities, walls, razor wire, bunkers, towers, etc. Much of this is off limits and secret so I will stop there. Academia Sinica borders to military compound, and for some reason it has aquired some land that belonged to the former military training compound, and made some trails through it. Hours: 24/7 Length/Difficulty: Less than one hour, easy. How to get there: By car/scooter: There is paid car parking at Academia Sinica, and scooters must park outside. By MRT/Bus: Take the blue MRT line to Nangang Exhibition Hall station, then transfer to any number of busses from exit 5 to Academia Sinica. Map: Please see below:
Shibawang Temple in Shimen, New Taipei can trace it's origins to over three hundred years ago. Today it is a popular stop along the north coast especially because of the many Zongzi stalls in front of the temple, selling these delicious snacks. Zongzi were traditionally used as offerings to deities by the local people here. It is a must stop location on your trip to the northeast coast.
Background: It is said that originally about 300 years ago seven people and one dog were shipwrecked at this site, and a small shrine was built here to honor the dog, who was the lone survivor. Later the area became a graveyard, and a temple was built here around the time of WWII. In 1960 Taiwan's Nuclear Plant No. 1 was built on the site. The Taipower Company then rebuilt the temple at the entrance of the plant which was completed in 1975. The new temple included space for Zongzi stalls and other night market like stalls, and soon it became a popular tourist site as well as religious center, and remains so to this day. Zongzi were traditionally used as offerings to deities by the local people here. There is also a sister temple further up the mountain with a giant dog statue. Hours: 24/7 Price: Free How to get there: By Car/Scooter: Take provincial Highway 2 from either Tamsui or Keelung North to Shimen. The Temple sits on the very northern edge of Shimen District. By Bus: Take Keelung bus from either Danshui MRT station or Keelung TRA station. You can also take the yellow and white North Coast Shuttle Bus to Qianhua or Shibawang station. Map: Please see below:
Dexing Coal Mine in Xinyi District of Taipei is a refurbished coal mining tunnel that has been opened to the public. is a great place to get familiar with the extinct coal mine industry in Taiwan, and is conveniently close to Taipei's city center.
History of Coal Mining in Taiwan: Before I show you my adventure, I’d like to give a background of the coal mining industry in Taiwan. If you aren’t interested, you can just skip this section. Coal mining in Taiwan started during the Dutch rule, starting in Keelung and Tamsui. The Dutch started mines there, but didn’t have sufficient transportation infrastructure to move large amounts of coal. The Koxinga era didn’t see much coal mining. After the Qing dynasty took back Taiwan following Koxinga and his son’s death, the government strictly banned mining of any kind in order to restrict the people from hiding in the mountains and starting rebellions. Despite this, coal was still mined and sold in on the black market in Taiwan. During and after the Opium wars, many English and Americans scouted Taiwan for possible coal deposits. In 1864, despite the ban on coal mining, there was at least 4315 tons of coal exported out of Taiwan. Pressure from western countries to open ports in Asia that had water and coal available to power steam ships forced the Qing government to finally allow legal coal mining in 1870. After the ban was lifted, the size of coal mining operations was still very small. In 1874, due to Japanese influence, Liu Mingchuan convinced Beijing to allow advanced mining machinery in Taiwan, starting in Baodouzi, Keelung, and new mines were started under government control. During this time, many miners died due to poor and unsanitary working conditions and the fact that the government officials running the mines were inexperienced and did not run effective operations. During this time, infrastructure and railways were lacking in Taiwan, halting transportation of coal. By 1892 after the Sino-French war, government owned mines were closed and the industry became privatized. In 1895, Taiwan produced more than 10,000 tons of coal. By this time, Liu Mingchuan had constructed the Keelung-Xinxhu railway, helping alleviate the coal transportation problem. In 1895 Japan took control of Taiwan and Penghu as a result of the Sino-Japanese war, and began to survey the forests and geography to maximize capitalist gains for the empire. Coal would be an important part in industrializing the Empire, as it was the major fuel source at the time. In 1896 Japan opened the coal mining industry to the public, and the next year the price of coal doubled, as demand increased. But as local know how and technology was lacking, imported coal from Japan was actually cheaper than producing it in Taiwan. However in 1906 the coal industry in Taiwan gradually improved. New mining machinery moved to Tianliao, Keelung to support Japan’s Naval fleet. Sugar factories in southern Taiwan also needed a constant supply of coal. During the First World War, the Empire of Japan became an important supplier of coal to western countries fighting in the war, and Taiwan’s coal exports gradually increased. In 1917-1918, Japan opened 194 new coal mines in Taiwan. They also built the Pingxi Railway which became the most productive site for coal mining, in its heyday producing 220,000 tons of coal per year. (The Taiwan coal mine museum now lays here, along withHoutong cat village). However, after World War I ended, the demand for coal declined, many mines closed, and there was widespread overproduction. But as industrialization continued in Taiwan, so did the demand for coal. To keep production going constantly, Japan provided subsidies to coal mines. At the start of the second Sino-Japanese war, demand for coal rose dramatically, as did the price of coal. But also due to losses of manpower during the war, coal production saw a huge drop. In 1945 Japan lost the war and Taiwan and Penghu were given back to China. Not long after this, the remaining government owned mines were transformed into the Taiwan mining company, but by then mining had all but stopped. However by 1949 after the KMT retreated to Taiwan, Taiwan became an important economic partner with America, and coal production began to soar to 1,650,000 tons of coal in 1951, mainly to fuel Taiwan’s coal power plants and other large industries. With economic support from the USA, new mines started opening. In 1960 Taiwan produced 4 million tons of coal. Due to demand and the free market, coal mines gradually started closing and production went down, until by 1964 Taiwan produced only 2.8 million tons of coal. In 1969 Taiwan Power started using gas power plants which were cheaper than coal, lowering demand. By 1977 Taiwan had produced only 2 million tons of coal. During this time, Taiwan also improved safety regulations for coal mines, but accidents still kept happening, forcing the government to close quite a few mines. Here is a list of mining incidents in Taiwan. The lone survivor of one1984 mining incident that killed 93 people survived by cannibalism and drinking pee over a period of 90 hours inside the mine. He later said that if he had to do it all over again, he would still have eaten his coworkers. Local coal soon became more costly to mine than just importing it. In the year 2000, Sanxia’s Lifeng Mine shut down operations, and Taiwan’s mining company closed, and thus all coal mining in Taiwan effectively stopped. History of Xinfeng Coal Mine: Dexingeng Coal Mine was one of many mines around Taipei, as there are many coal seams in the mountains of northern Taiwan. The coal mine was active from 1946-1978. Once the coal mining industry shut down in the late 1990's, this mine shut down too and was left abandoned for a number of years until the area was restored by Taipei City in the early 2000's. Now it is a well kept tourist attraction, where one can enjoy the history of the mine as well as the natural scenery nearby. Hours: 9 AM to 4 PM every day Price: Free How to get there: by scooter/car: by MRT/bus: Map: See below:
Academia Sinica's Museum of History and Philology is one of the best museums in Taiwan. It has the largest collection of Chinese oracle bone remains in the world. It is also free, usually devoid of people, and has some of the most amazing ancient artifacts from Taiwan and China. It is like a mini National Palace Museum, and is worth a visit on your trip to Taipei.
Background: The museum first began in 1933, just after the Institute of History and Philology was created in 1928 in Beijing. After 1949, the museum was moved to Taiwan as part of the ROC retreat to Taiwan. In 1965 the museum did merge with the National Palace Museum, and was reopened in 1986 when the museum building at Academia Sinica was completed. The building also underwent renovations from 1997-2002. Much of the collection comes from when the institute was located in China, and includes thousands of pieces from prehistoric times, as well as the Shang, Chou, and Han Dynasties. Website: http://museum.sinica.edu.tw/en/visit/ Hours: Wednesday, Saturday, and Sunday from 9:30 AM to 4:30 PM Price: Free! Temperature: The museum is kept at a cool 20 degrees Celsius, so dress accordingly. How to get there: By car/scooter: There is paid car parking at Academia Sinica, and scooters must park outside. By MRT/Bus: Take the blue MRT line to Nangang Exhibition Hall station, then transfer to any number of busses from exit 5 to Academia Sinica. Map: Please see below: |
Author 作家We are US Expats that have extensive experience living, working, and travelling in Taiwan. In our day, we had to learn many things about Taiwan the hard way. But we have come to learn that Taiwan is one of the best places in the world for Foreigners to live. Our blog does not represent the opinions of every foreigner in Taiwan. We are just trying to help others learn more about this beautiful country. Archives 檔案
January 2023
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