For you expats or foreigners who have never left Taipei, Miaoli is a large rural county in central Taiwan. For years I myself never visited, because I didn't know what was there and had no reason to go. It turns out there are quite a few attractions here in this secret paradise.
Below I will list out some of the best places in Miaoli that I have visited. I will be sure to update this blog as I visit more places later. How to get around in Miaoli? As always, we recommend renting a scooter as the best way to see Taiwan. However, you can also a great deal of Miaoli by taking the train, inter city bus, or local bus. Getting around in a car is also a convenient option as there is plenty of parking pretty much everywhere in this less crowded county. You can see a map of all the places that we will visit in this blog below:
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As one of the most secret and unknown tourist attractions in Taipei City, Nangang Tea Mountain is a large mountain area that offers pleasant hikes, great views, historical buildings, no crowds, and most of all tea. It is one of only two mountain tea growing areas in Taipei City, the other being Maokong. Hopefully this blog will help you understand how much natural beauty and intact history this is in Nangang District.
Background: Nangang 南港means “South Port” in Chinese. This south port once rested on the southern banks of the Keelung River near what is now the Neihu MRT depot in Nangang District, Taipei. There was a "North Port" on the Keelung river in what is now Xizhi. Nangang was once part of Neihu District before it split in the ROC era. In the earliest times, Nangang was known as an industry hub for coal, brick making, and tea farming. In order to ship goods from Neihu to Nangang rail station, at least two suspension bridges were made across the Keelung River. Hours: Trails: 24/7 Tea Processing Demonstration Center: Tuesday-Sunday 9 AM to 5 PM Price: Free How to get there: By car/scooter: From Nangang Road at Nangang Exhibition Center MRT station, turn south toward the mountains and keep going straight on Acadamia Sinica Road until it turns into Jiuzhuang Street. Keep going all the way up the mountain and you have reached the tea district. By bus: Take the Southeast Little 5 bus from Nangang Exhibition Center MRT station. It takes about half an hour to get to the Tea Processing Center from there. Map: Please see below: 
Huoyanshan (literally Fire Mountain or Mountain of Flames) is a quickly eroding mountain in Miaoli County that has deep canyons and red coloration due to mineral seepage. It's unique landscape is popular with hikers and instagrammers, and also has great views of Taichung and the surrounding area.
Background: Like much of the area around it, Huoyanshan was formed when the land was lifted up due to tectonic factors, but the side of the sandstone mountain has been eroded away by heavy rainfall and the Da'an River creating a large canyon. Discoloration due to laterization (leaching and oxidation due to heavy rain) of minerals in the sediment has made the rocks near the top of the mountain here orange-red. The Mountain at its highest point is 614 meters above sea level, and is one of Taiwan's 100 lesser peaks (小百岳). In 1984, the area was made into a protected nature reserve, andclosed off to the public due to danger from erosion. Now that is reopened, it is a very popular hiking and bird watching destination. Anyone travelling north on National Freeway 1 will have a great view of the mountain on the left as they leave Taichung into Miaoli. Price: Free Hours: 24/7 Time needed to hike (round trip): 3-4 hours, easy hike How to get there: By Car: Travel south on provincial highway 13 in Mioali until you reach Bogongkeng (伯公坑); at that point you can park on the side of the road and head up Bogongkeng Village, the trail head starts at the top of the road. By Bus: Take Hsinchu Bus 5665 from Sanyi TRA station to the Bogongkeng bus stop. Map: Please see below: 
The Matsu Archipelago is a group of small islands off the coast of China that belong to Taiwan. Acting for a long time as military outposts for Taiwan, the islands have recently opened to tourists. Here you can find traditional stone house villages, magical "blue tear" bioluminescent phenomena, wild sika deer, military museums, a Mazu memorial park including the largest Mazu statue in the world, a variety of local food, and much more to explore.
Background: Thousands of years ago, stone aged peoples once inhabited the Matsu Islands. These stone aged people later disappeared. The Matsu islands were inhabited again around the Song Dynasty (990 - 1200 AD) by Chinese Fisherman, the descendants of whom still inhabit the islands today. Because the Goddess Mazu's corpse washed ashore on this island, Nangan is also known as Matsu Island. During the Chinese Civil War, Matsu was used as a military outpost for the retreating ROC. During the years that followed, it withheld shelling and threats of invasion from China, helping to keep Taiwan free of communist control. In 1992 after cross straight relations had warmed up, martial law was lifted on the islands and tourists were allowed to visit. In the year 2000, a ferry link with Fuzhou started to provide constant China Mainland visitors to the island, as part of the three links with China. In 1994 Beigan Airport was opened, and was the only airport in Matsu for 9 years. In 2003, the Nangan Airport was opened, which significantly lowered the number of travelers to Beigan. However fast and convenient boat travel has made it so that most tourists travel to both islands. Matsu (or officially Lienchiang County of Fujian Province 連江縣) consists of 36 islands or islets, with 5 major isalnds: Nangan, Beigan, Xiju, Dongju, and Dongyin, and minor islands including Daqiu, Xiaoqiu, Gaodeng, and Liangdao. Nangan has a population of 4,000 people, and is the largest island in Matsu in terms of population and geographical size. Beigan Island is the second largest island in Matsu (behind Nangan), and a population of about 2,500. Xiju and Dongju Islands sit next to each other and have a combined population of 1,500 people. Dongyin is the third largest island in terms of size and population, with about 1,300 people. Daqiu is a small island near Beigan with a population of 1 human and about 300 wild sika deer. Xiaoqiu is another small uninhabited rocky islet next to Daqiu. Gaodeng Island and Liangdao Islands are also sizable islands in the chain, but are military islands that are currently closed off to tourists. How to get there: The easiest way to get around the islands is take a plane/boat to Nangan and then go island hopping from there. Nangan is the main transportation hub for all the islands. Dongyin Island: By Boat: There are daily ferries from Keelung Harbor that usually take an overnight trip to Nangan, passing through Dongyin Island. The price for a one way ride is 400-2000 NT depending on the type of accommodation you want on the boat. Boats from Nangan leave twice a day and take 2 hours. The price for a one way ride is 350 NT. Beigan Island: By Boat: There are boats from Nangan Fu'Ao Harbor (南竿福奧港) to Beigan Baisha Harbor (北竿白沙港) every hour from 7 AM to 5 PM. There are no daily routes to Beigan from other islands (except Daqiu). By Plane: There are flights to and from Taipei Songshan Airport three times a day via Uni Air. Daiqu Island: Public Ferry from Nangan Fu'Ao Harbor (福澳港) (April to October): 350 NT round trip per person （Stops at Baisha Harbor in Nangan) Nangan departure times: 9:50 AM, 1:30 PM, Daqiu departure times: 12:10 Noon, 3:40 PM Trip takes about 20 minutes. Public Ferry from Beigan Qiaozi Harbor (橋仔港) (May to October): 300 NT round trip per person Beigan departure times: 8:30 AM, 2:30 PM, Daqiu departure times: 10:30 AM, 4:30 PM https://hotels.matsu.idv.tw/ferry.php Trip takes about 10 minutes. Chartered ferries: Around 300 NT per round trip. Nangan Island: By Boat: There are daily ferries from Keelung Harbor that usually take an overnight trip to Nangan, passing through Dongyin Island. There are boats from Beigan Baisha Harbor (北竿白沙港) to Nangan Fu'Ao Harbor (南竿福奧港) every hour from 7 AM to 5 PM. By Plane: There are flights to and from Taipei Songshan Airport three times a day via Uni Air. Dongju and Xiju Islands: By Boat: Ferries from Nangan leave every 3 hours, with three trips per day. The trip takes about an hour. Price is 200 NT one way. Price (to Nangan): By Boat: 500-2000 NT per person (one way from Keelung) 160 NT per person (one way from Beigan) By Plane: About 2000 NT (one way from Taipei) How to get around the islands: Matsu has large, hilly islands and it would be very hard to get around on foot or bicycle. We recommend one of the following By Scooter: We recommend riding a scooter as your #1 choice. It's fast, convenient, and there isn't much traffic on the island. A scooter will cost about 500 NT per day to rent. When braking on hills, use both brakes, otherwise you could lose traction on one tire and skid. Don't stop or park on a slope. Also, some hills that are too steep are closed off for scooters. By Car/Taxi: You can rent a car or hire a taxi for 200O NT per day. By Bus: There are buses that goes around the islands, but wait times can be 30 minutes or more. When to go: We recommend going between April and June when the "blue tear" phosphorescent microbes in the water will be the most visible at night. Also, winters can be cold and windy and summers very hot, and there could also be typhoons in the summer and fall. Map: Please see below: 
Su'Ao's Neipi Beach in the Nanfangao area (Yilan County) is perhaps the most beautiful beach in northeast Taiwan. It is known for its romantic atmosphere and large waves, which attract surfers from all around. Popular activities here include surfing, kite surfing, kayaking, scuba diving, hiking, and watching the sunrise.
Background: The area around Neipi Beach is known as Nanfangao, or southern Su'Ao. Nanfangao Harbor is the third largest in Taiwan, attracting many tourists to its fish markets, and sits right next to Neipi Beach. Su'Ao is an important link between Eastern Taiwan and Northern Taiwnan. National Freeway 5 ends here, and the Suhua Highway begins here, connecting Yilan to Hualien. On October 1st, 2019 the Nafangao Cross Harbor Bridge suddenly collapsed, killing 6 and injuring 12. Currently there are plans for reconstruction. The cause of the bridge collapse is still under investigation, but is likely due to corrosion of the supporting cables. Due to fierce undercurrents, it is highly advised that you use caution while performing water sports in the area. Price: Free Hours: 24/7 How to get there: By Car: Take National Freeway No. 3 and transfer to National Freeway No. 5. Take the highway to the very end and you will arrive in Su'Ao. You will need to travel to the very end of Nafangao Harbor and drive around it as the cross harbor bridge has collapsed. By Bus: There are buses that leave hourly from Taipei Main Station to Su'Ao. The journey takes about 2 hours. By Train: Take the train to Su'Ao Station, then walk or take a taxi the remaining 2-3 km to the beach. Map: Please see the Map Below: 
Beigan Island is a one of the two largest Islands in Matsu (officailly Lienchiang County, Taiwan), and has some of the best preserved traditional stone made fishing villages on the islands. There are also many historical military sites, as the islands were part of the front line during the Chinese Civil War. It is easily accessible via airplane or boat from Taipei.
Background: Thousands of years ago, stone aged peoples once inhabited the Matsu Islands, including Beigan Island itself. These stone aged people later disappeared. The Matsu islands were inhabited again around the Song Dynasty (990 - 1200 AD) by Chinese Fisherman, the descendants of whom still inhabit the islands today. During the Chinese Civil War, Matsu was used as a military outpost for the retreating ROC. During the years that followed, it withheld shelling and threats of invasion from China, helping to keep Taiwan free of communist control. In 1992 after cross straight relations had warmed up, martial law was lifted on the islands and tourists were allowed to visit. In 1994 Beigan Airport was opened, and was the only airport in Matsu for 9 years. In2003, the Nangan Airport was opened, which significantly lowered the number of travelers to Beigan. However fast and convenient boat travel has made it so that most tourists travel to both islands. Beigan Island is the second largest island in Matsu (behind Nangan), and a population of about 2,500. How to get there: By Boat: There are boats from Nangan Fu'Ao Harbor (南竿福奧港) to Beigan Baisha Harbor (北竿白沙港) every hour from 7 AM to 5 PM. There are no daily routes to Beigan from other islands (except Daqiu). By Plane: There are flights to and from Taipei Songshan Airport three times a day via Uni Air. Price: By Boat: 160 NT per person (one way from Nangan) By Plane: About 2000 NT (one way from Taipei) How to get around on the island: Beigan is a large, hilly island and it would be very hard to get around on foot or bicycle. We recommend one of the following By Scooter: We recommend riding a scooter as your #1 choice. It's fast, convenient, and there isn't much traffic on the island. A scooter will cost about 500 NT per day to rent. When braking on hills, use both brakes, otherwise you could lose traction on one tire and skid. Don't stop or park on a slope. Also, some hills that are too steep are closed off for scooters. By Car/Taxi: You can rent a car or hire a taxi for 200O NT per day. By Bus: There is a bus that goes around the island, but wait times can be 30 minutes or more. When to go: We recommend going between April and June when the "blue tear" phosphorescent microbes in the water will be the most visible at night. Also, winters can be cold and windy and summers very hot, and there could also be typhoons in the summer and fall. Map: Please see below: 
A few weeks ago my Spark Drone Crashed. I posted a few photos which gained quite a lot of interest, so I have decided to share the whole blog about the crash here. Also as a fellow internet user I know that is helpful to post this kind of crash information on the internets for the use of others.
The Pingxi Railway in New Taipei has some of the most popular attractions in Northern Taiwan. With a total of 7 stations (plus 2 if you count Ruifang and Houtong), there are endless places to explore, eat, hike, and enjoy Taiwan's history, culture, and natural beauty all in one place.
Background: Before the Pingxi Railway was built, during the Qing Dynasty a section of the Danlan Old Trail ran through roughly the same area, connecting Yilan to Tamsui. The Japanese completed the Pingxi Railway in 1921 in order to transport coal from the area. Most all of the stations and villages along the line were economically reliant on the coal industry until its downfall in the late 1990s. The coal industry remained strong after the ROC took over Taiwan after WWII, but slowly waned in the 1980s and 1990s due to the decrease in global coal prices. In the year 2000, Sanxia’s Lifeng Mine shut down operations, and Taiwan’s mining company closed, and thus all coal mining in Taiwan effectively stopped. The Pingxi Railway is a single track that is 12.9 KM long with 7 stations. Recently the government has offered many plans to connect the Pingxi Railway to the Taipei MRT via Jingtong to Jingmei, however due to many factors these plans have never been approved. The area around Pingxi and Ruifang is made up of sedimentary rock which easily erodes, creating many large waterfalls such as Shifen Falls, and pointy jagged peaks like the Pingxi Crags. Popular activities along the Pingxi Railway include hiking, river tracing, eating at one of the many old streets, setting off sky lanterns, and exploring the many historical coal mining sites. Hours: The first train reaches Sandiaoling daily at 5:25 AM and the last train leaves Jingtong at 8:33 PM. Price: 80 NT per person for a one day pass When to go: Any time of year is great. However, waterfalls are most enjoyable during the hot summer, and you may want to come for lantern festival when hundreds of sky lanterns are set off at once. To avoid crowds and packed trains, do not go on weekends or holidays. How to get there: By Train: Take the TRA to Ruifang Station, buy the Pingxi Railway line one day pass, and then switch to the Pingxi Railway line. Get off at any station! By Car/Scooter: Take provincial highway 2 east toward Pinglin, then get off the main highway once you reach Shifen. You can drive right or left to reach all of the stations on the Pingxi Railway line. But please know there is limited car parking around the stations. Map: Please see below: 
Disclaimer: We are not affiliated with any camp ground or camping products in Taiwan. The following FAQ is only based on our opinion after years of camping in Taiwan, and should not be considered absolute fact. If in doubt, make sure you check with the local police station or other government office to make sure you are following local regulations while camping in Taiwan.
With two thirds of the island covered in mountains, Taiwan has some of the most beautiful scenery in the world. One of the best ways to experience the natural beauty of Taiwan is via camping. Below is a very basic level FAQ on camping in Taiwan for foreigners that have never experienced it.
Bishan Campground (aka Bishan Camping Area) in Neihu District of Taipei City is the only free campground run by Taipei City. Near the campground is Bishan Temple, which has one of the best views of Taipei. Besides camping and temple worship, the area is also a popular hiking spot, and there are multiple tourist farms and tea shops to explore.
How to apply for a camping spot: You can apply using this online form (it's in English!): http://gisweb.taipei.gov.tw/TPCamp/en/ABishan.aspx You must apply at least 7 days in advance, but no more than 30 days in advance. You must enter your passport ID or Taiwan ID. You can check the status of the application online as well. For more info, check here (Chinese): https://www.geo.gov.taipei/mp10504b/ Price: Free Utilities:
Hours: Camping time starts at 2 PM and ends at 1 PM the next day. You can only stay for two nights at a time. How to get there: By Bus: You can take a bus to about 1 KM away from the campsite, but then you have to walk with all of that gear. If that's not what you want then you should take a taxi or your own vehicle. By Scooter/Car: From East Neihu, drive up Bishan Raod (碧山路) until you see the campground. It's hard to miss. Map: Please see below: 
Sandiaoling is a small station along the Pingxi Railway in Ruifang District of New Taipei, near Shuoren Village that was once reliant on coal mining. Officially the first station along the Pingxi Line, it is popular with hikers for nearby trails to waterfalls. The village also has a few historical sites such as the defunct Sandiao Mine and the abandoned Shuoren Elementary School. There are also quite a few tea and coffee shops here, perfect for resting hikers to relax. Sandiaoling Station is the only train station in Taiwan that is inaccessible by car; it can only be reached by foot.
Background: The name Sandiaoling Comes from the Spanish name Santiago, which was the name the Spanish gave to the of the nearby Fulong Village and Santiaogo Cape in when they landed there in 1626. Sandiao is the Taiwanese transliteration of Santiago. During the Qing Dynasty, Sandiaoling was also a town along the Danlan Old Trail that connected Taipei to Yilan. The Pingxi Line was completed in 1921 by the Japanese for coal transport, and opened to travelers in 1929. The reason that Sandiaoling Station is inaccessible by road is that originally it was only meant as a stop for railway workers who were directing trains at the fork here. Trains from Sandiaoling can either go up the Pingxi Line or travel on to Yilan. Another reason is that the Keelung River acts as a natural barrier to the nearest road. In 1968, another track was added between Houtong Station and Sandiaoling Station, so as to prevent train accidents, as Sandiaoling is a convergence of the Pingxi and Yilan lines. Coal mining at Sandialing stopped in the 1980s with the decline of the coal industry in Taiwan. In 2018, there were an average of 86 passengers per day to Sandiaoling Station. Hours: 24/7 （first train comes at about 5:30 AM, last train leaves at about 10:30 PM, with one train coming every half hour or so) How to get there: By Train: Take the TRA to Ruifang Station, and then switch to the Pingxi Railway line. Get off at Sandiaoling Station, and you have arrived! By Car/Scooter: Take provincial highway 2 east toward Pinglin, then get off the main highway once you reach Shuangxi. You then need to take highway 102 past Mudan (牡丹) and then turn left onto Houmu Public Road (侯牡公路), take it to the end and you will reach Shuoren Village near Sandiaoling Station (you then need to walk about 5 mintues to get the station). Map: Please see below: 
In an area full of majestic waterfalls, Sandiaoling's Three Tiered Waterfall Trail near Sandiaoling Station could be the most spectacular, with three large waterfalls over 30 meters tall in a row next to each other.
Background: There are many waterfalls along the Keelung River valley which runs through Pingxi and Ruifang; this is due to easily eroding sedimentary rock that makes up the terrain, which also makes for odd shapes and holes along rivers. The Sandiaoling waterfalls lie on a tributary of the Keelung River, in a mountain valley above the former mining village of Sandiaoling. Coming from Sandiaoling, the first waterfall you will see on the trail is Hegu Waterfall (合谷瀑布) which consists of two falls, the higher falls are 25 meters high and 9 meters wide, and the lower falls are 15 meters high and 6 meters wide. The second or middle waterfall is Motian Waterfall (摩天瀑布) which is 41 meters tall and 7 meters wide; it perhaps the tallest waterfall along the Pingxi Railway. The third or highest waterfall along the trail is Pipa Waterfall (aka Pipadong Waterfall 枇杷洞瀑布), and is about 31 meters high. Difficulty: This hike is moderately challenging; the whole hike take about an hour or two but there are ropes, chains, and ladders along the way, making for some gnarly climbs near the the top two waterfalls. Hours: 24/7 Price: Free How to get there: By Train: Take the TRA to Ruifang Station, and then switch to the Pingxi Railway line. Get off at Sandiaoling Station, then walk along the tracks to Shuoren Elementary School (碩仁國小); the trail starts at the entrance of the school. By Car/Scooter: Take provincial highway 2 east toward Pinglin, then get off the main highway once you reach Shifen. Then take highway 106 to Wufenliao (五分寮), and take the road down to the trail head, where there is plenty of free parking. From here the first waterfall you will come across is Pipadong Waterfall (coming down from above). You can also drive to Sandiaoling Station and use the directions above. Map: Please see below: 
Dahua Station is one of the smallest, most remote, and less visited train stations on the Pingxi Railway. There are almost no commercialized attractions, but that has also made it a pristine nature area popular with hikers. Nearby one can see natural sites such as the Dahua potholes, waterfalls, forests, and wildlife, as well as historical mining sites.
Background: Dahua Station was completed in 1956, 35 years after the Pingxi Railway itself was completed. Its main purposes at the time was to ship coal and other mining materials from the nearby coal screening facility and also provide transportation for mine employees. In 1990, coal production at Dahua station stopped along with the gradual demise of the coal industry in Taiwan, due to low coal import prices and safety issues. In 1994, a small platform was built for tourists. Dahua station is unmanned. As of 2018, only an average of 18 people per day visited the station. Popular attractions near the train station include the Dahua Potholes, Cukeng Falls, Youkeng Falls, and Youkeng trail that connect Dahua Station to Sandiaoling Station. A lot of visitors mistakenly stop at Dahua Station while trying to walk to Shifen Waterfall. This is a mistake! It is a really long walk to Shifen Waterfall. You are best to just wait an hour for another oncoming train. Hours: 24/7 （first train comes at 5:32 AM, last train leaves at 10:30 PM, with one train coming every half hour or so) How to get there: By Train: Take the TRA to Ruifang Station, and then switch to the Pingxi Railway line. Get off at Dahua Station, and you have arrived! By Car/Scooter: Take provincial highway 2 east toward Pinglin, then get off the main highway once you reach Shifen, then cross to the south of the Keelung River and take the Dahua Agricultural Road all the way to the end where you will find the station. There is no road that directly connects to Sandiaoling. Map: Please see below: 
Orchid Island (not to be confused with the Fijian Island of the same name), known in the the local Tao language as Ponso No Tao (Island of the people), and in Chinese as Lanyu (蘭嶼) is a secret indigenous people's paradise off the southeastern coast of Taiwan. It is different than any other place in Taiwan, and has the best preserved indigenous culture anywhere in the country. If Taiwan's best tourist activity is experiencing the culture of Taiwan's indigenous peoples, then Lanyu has the best tourist experience anywhere in Taiwan.
Background: History: Orchid Island became inhabited about 800 years ago by the Tao indigenous people (達悟族) (aka Yami people 雅美族, which is a name coined by the Japanese, but the native people prefer Tao), which are thought to have traveled from the Batanes Islands in the Philippines , which are a little less than 200 KM away, cut off by the Bashi Channel. However Orchid Island is very different than the Philippines. Beginning in1644, some Dutch Sailors were sent to investigate the island, and some settled there among the natives. Because of this, the Island was known as Red Head Island (紅頭嶼) by the Chinese and the Japanese. After the Dutch were defeated in Taiwan, Lanyu was claimed but not controlled by the Qing Dynasty. The Japanese claimed the Island shortly after the Sino-Japanese War in 1895, but protected it as an "ethnological research site" and forbid outsiders from entering. After the Republic of China took over Taiwan following the end of WWII, they continued to ban visitors to the island until 1967, after which tourists were allowed to enter and public schools were built there. Christian missionaries began preaching and living on the island starting in the 1950s, and now basically all native people on the island are Christian (mixed with traditional beliefs). However Christianity was introduced much earlier starting with the Dutch in the 1600s although to a lesser extent. In 1982 a nuclear waste storage plant was built on the south side of the Island without the islanders consent, causing protests from the inhabitants. Also because of this, the Island inhabitants receive free electricity. The island is volcanic in nature, with the last major eruption being over 5 million years ago. The highest mountain is 552 meters (1,811 feet). Currently there are 2,400 people permanently living on the island, 90% of them being of native Tao descent. Tao Culture: The Tao people number in about 2,000 living on Orchid Island, with about another 2,000 living on the Taiwan mainland. The Tao people rely on the sea for survival, and much of their traditions and lifestyle is centered on fishing. The Tao people are mostly Christian but also still practice many of their traditional beliefs. However their ancestral religion included a pantheon of Gods. Traditional roles for men are fishing while roles for women include harvesting taro and sweet potato and weaving. The men usually fish at night or early morning and rest on traditional wooden platforms during the day. Boats are made from planks of wood and are painted with red, white, and black. The boat usually has human figures, waves, and the traditional sun image (red and black circles and sun rays) which is said to warn off evil spirits. Boats are considered sacred and the ultimate human creation. There is also a launching ceremony for new boats in which traditional clothes and headgear (such as silver helmets for men and wooden hats for women) are worn, pigs are slaughtered, and the boat is lifted into the air multiple times before being set in the water. Traditional clothes include loin cloths and vests for men, and aprons and vests for women. Young people on the street usually do not wear traditional dress. Flying Fish Festival: There are three basic seasons on Lanyu: one is the flying fish season when flying fish can be easily caught and used in and lasts from February to May. The other seasons are from May to October and October to February, when flying fish cannot be caught for ceremonial use. There are many taboos during flying fish season which are discussed below. The Flying Fish Festival lasts from aboutMarch to October when flying fish are caught. During this time many ceremonies take place such as for the beginning of the festival, plentiful harvest, etc. During the festival, there are multiple migrations of flying fish species near Lanyu. There are many taboos during this time, especially when it comes to catching and eating flying fish which are the main life source of the Tao people. Weather and Climate: The island has a tropical rain forest climate, with average high temperatures between 20 and 30 degrees year round. The rainy months are in summer, especially due to Typhoons, but the most sunny days are also in summer (expect a lot of sun), and the most rainy days are in winter. Summer is the tourist season, but spring and fall are also popular times to visit. Winters are said to be dreary, cold, and have constant northeastern winds that can stop airplanes and ferries from departing to the island. When to go: The best time to go they say is around May when it is not too hot and there are no northeasterly winds or typhoons which can cancel your transportation to the island. Typhoon season lasts from around June to October. The busy season is during summer break from June to August, during which time it can be hard to book a hostel or airplane ticket. Winter is the less crowded season, but the water will be cold, there will be constant wind (which could cancel transportation), and it will rain more often. Taboos: General Taboos:
How to get there: By Plane: The only planes to and from Orchid Island come from Taitung. Flight times: As of the time of this blog, there were six flights per day byDaily Air Corporation from about8 AM to 4 PM (Please note their website is only in Chinese). The flight from Taitung to Lanyu takes about 25 minutes. Please note that the aircraft are small and flights can be cancelled due to high winds or unfavorable weather. Costs: NT 1428 to Lanyu and NT 1360 from Lanyu. By Boat: There are two places that offer ferry rides to Lanyu: Houbihu Harbor (恆春後壁湖漁港） in Pingtung and Fugang Harbor in Taitung (臺東富岡漁港). There are also two ferry companies that operate at both harbors. Both companies leave from both harbors at the same time and arrive at the same time for the same price (2300 NT per person round trip). Ferry Boat costs: 2300 NT per person round trip from both Taitung or Pingtung. Both ferry companies have the same price. Ferry Boat Times: 7:30 AM departure, 9:30 AM arrival to Lanyu. 1:00 PM departure, 3:00 PM arrival to Lanyu. 10:00 departure from Lanyu, 12:00 arrival to Taitung or Pingtung. 3:30 PM departure from Lanyu, 5:30 PM arrival to Taitung or Pingtung. Both ferry companies depart and arrive at the same time to both locations. Getting around the island: Rent a scooter! The island is small so you should not need to rent a car. You can rent bicycles but you will not be able to travel as fast. You can also hire a driver to take you on tours. Ask your hostel for more rental information. They can help you book a rental in advance. Scooter Rental: Price: expect 500 NT per day. Be sure to book your rental in advance, especially during summer weekends. Ask for help from your hostel owner if needed. I am 100% percent certain you do not need a Taiwan local license to rent scooters here, however they may ask for an international license (but I'm fairly sure they will let you rent without one). Helmet wearing is not enforced at all as you will quickly find, but it's still the law. Also be careful to not hit any goats because they wander as they please. There is only one gas station next to Kaiyuan Fishing Harbor. Car Rental: Price: expect 2000 NT per day. Don't rent a car unless you absolutely need to. Renting scooters should be sufficient for most travelers. Accommodation: Booking accommodation on the island can be difficult in summer months and on weekends, when rooms can be fully booked for months in advance. AirBnb has the most choices, however there is also a nice selection on Booking.com. Here is a list of every registered hostel on the island, but it is in Chinese. My hostel required that I pay for my room in advance via bank wire transfer (this may not be an option if you are a foreign traveler, so make sure they accept credit cards if you do not have a Taiwan bank account). Expect to pay 2000 - 4000 NT per night for a standard double room on Lanyu. Map: Please see below: 
Pingxi Crags are a set of hiking trails that traverse steep mountain peaks and rock cliffs in the mountains south of Pingxi Village. The sedimentary rocks here stick out of the forest at the tops of the mountains, making for great views but also dangerous climbs.
Background: The rock formations that form the Pingxi crags hike formed as sediment under the ocean millions of years ago and were then uplifted thanks to the collision of the Eurasian and Phillipine plates. The rocks are mainly sedimentary and are part of the same formation that forms the special rock formations on the northern coast around Keelung. The area also has some coal deposits, and there is an abandoned mine on the trail. There are basically six main peaks along the Pingxi Crags trail: Xiaozishan (孝子山), Cimu Peak (慈母峰), Cien Peak (慈恩嶺), Putuoshan (普陀山), Choutoutshan (臭頭山) and the Zhongyangjian Peak (中央尖) which is the highest peak in that chain of mountains. Xiaozishan is 140 (459 feet) above sea level. Much of the climbing is medium to difficult, and includes rock scrambling and rope climbs up steep cliffs with carved steps and footholds, as well as ladder crossings and chain ladder climbs in some places. The area is popular with hikers and can get busy on the weekends. Hours: 24/7 Permits Required: None Duration: The trail is technically 1.6 KM to Zhongyanjian, but it could take you most of the day because the hike is steep and there is lots of rope climbing. The difficulty here is medium because you are not gaining tons of elevation but there are some really scary rope climbs, rock scrambling, and near vertical rock climbs in some places. When to go: On a sunny dry day. The rocks can get slippery and a fall on some of the trails could kill you. When not to go: Don't go when it is raining. You could slip right off a cliff to your death, plus it will be cloudy with no good views. Don't bring children under 12 years old. How to get there: By Train: Take the TRA to Ruifang Station, and then switch to the Pingxi Railway line. Get off at Pingxi Station, and then walk south past the river toward the mountains. The trailhead starts right to the right of the public bathroom. By Car/Scooter: Take provincial highway 2 east toward Pinglin, then get off the main highway once you reach Shifen. Then turn right and go west on county road 106 until you reach the Pingxi Old street and turn left up the mountain after you reach the Taiwan Power Company. There is a parking lot and trail head at the end of the road. Maps: You can check out the full trail map here or here. For the location of the start of the trail, please see below: 
Wanggu Waterfall is a less known set of four waterfalls near Wanggu Station on the Pingxi Railway Line, located in Pingxi District of New Taipei. The short hike from Wanggu Station will take you to a series of waterfalls, with the second waterfall being the biggest. The trail is a pleasant hike and also a relaxing place to swim.
To read a great blog about this place in Chinese, check Willy Chang's incredibly extensive blog of the area here, from which I have pulled some information. 我不會把這篇翻成中文因爲“放羊的狼”已經寫了一篇更完整的中文部落格在這裡。 Background: The Pingxi Railway was completed in 1921 during the Japanese Era of Taiwan mainly to transport coal in the area. Wanggu Station was completed in only 1972 as the coal industry was gradually declining. It is an unmanned station, where you are on your honor to buy a ticket and the station you get off at because there is no one working at the station (or use an Easy Card). Wanggu Station was originally named Qinghe Station "慶和車站" after the main coal mine right next to it, but was later named to Wanggu Station in 1989. There is a broken suspension bridge near the train station, nemed Qinghe Suspension Bridge (慶和吊橋) that used to ship coal from another mine across the Keelung River before it was brought to Wanggu Station. By the 1990's, Taiwan's coal mining industry was in decline, and it was hard to produce cheap local coal. As of 2017, there was an average of 18 people a day arriving or leaving from Wanggu Station. Hours: 24/7 Price: Free How to get there: By Train: Take the TRA to Ruifang Station, and then switch to the Pingxi Railway line. Get off at Wanggu Station, and then walk west down the road up the bridge and over the train tracks, you will see the trail to the waterfall at the top of the bridge. By Car/Scooter: Take provincial highway 2 east toward Pinglin, then get off the main highway once you reach Shifen. Then turn right and go west on county raod 106 until you reach the Wanggu Station turnoff. After that, you have to drive on a narrow road between old buildings and the train tracks, then cross over the tracks to the hiking trail entrance. Parking is free and plentiful along the road. Map: Please see below: 
Full Moon Waterfall (Manyue Waterfall) lies in Sanxia's Manyueyuan National Forest Recreation Area in New Taipei. It's a beautiful waterfall and an easy family hike.
滿月圓瀑布位於新北市三峽區的滿月圓國家森林游樂區，是一個美麗的瀑布且容易的步道。 I actually recommend not going until the new tourist information center and Virgin Waterfall are opened up. That's right, Virgin Waterfall, the biggest waterfall in the park, is not even accessible, but you can still see Manyueyuan Waterfall for a discounted price. 其實我建議等到處女瀑布開放之後再去。對了，處女瀑布關閉了，整個公園最大的瀑布。但是滿月圓瀑布有優惠哦！ To get there, the only way is by taking your own vehicle or taxi. According to the recreation area website, there are no buses to get there. See a map of the waterfall below: 去那邊只能開車或搭計程車。本地區的網站說沒有公車。請參考以下的地圖：
Before we get into hiking just let me tell you about the parking situation here. If you go on a weekend, especially on a long holiday weekend, parking is going to be competitive. There is some free parking near the entrance to the trail, if you buy some vegetables. So what happens if you don't buy some veggies before your hike? You get yelled at by the kid next to the sign and by the people selling them. We were afraid that people would scratch our car while we gone out of spite, but we also didn't want to haul a bunch of potatoes up a mountain.
我開始討論爬山之前，奇偶想要分享這邊停車的情況。如果你周末去的話，特別連假，你會發現停車很競爭。有些“免費”停車場在步道入口附近，但是你要買菜。你不買菜怎麽辦呢？你會被旁邊的小男生罵，而且被賣菜的老闆罵。我們跟他們說：回來再買可以嗎？整個爬山的過程我們很怕他們會把我們的車子刮傷，但是我們也不想把一大堆菜帶上山。 There is an entrance fee, which is normally 100 NT per person. However, because Virgin Waterfall was closed on this day, the fee was only 50 NT per person. Yipee! 門票原價100，但是因爲處女瀑布關閉我們享有50塊的優惠，黑皮黑皮！ 
View of the trail entrance as we began our way up. There's even a map in English!
步道入口居然有英文地圖！ 
This day in January was rather chilly and windy (you can tell how far behind we are on posts for this blog).
我們一月去的天氣有一點冷，風有點大 （你可以發現我們的部落格已經不是更新的很好） 
From the get-go, there were signs that this nature trail had little nature. Besides the smelly bathrooms, the trail was a paved asphalt path, and you can see the river below has a rock wall.
一開始我們發現這個大自然的地方沒什麽大自然。除了很臭的厠所之外，還有泊油路和河邊的石頭墻壁 。 
Oh, the rock wall reduces the impact of the stream water?! Really!
哦，挑流工的石頭墻可以減緩河流的影響嗎？真的嗎！ The sign says" Piled stones are used to reinforce the riverbed. The arch principle and watertight construction methods are used to reduce the impact form the water in areas where the waterway curves even large stone pile-ups may not be able to withstand the long-term erosion of the water. In these locations, adding a spur dike can achieve the goal of protecting the shores." 標識牌說：中文看的到吧？ 
Let's protect nature against getting destroyed by nature by building walls all over nature!
我們不可以讓大自然破壞大自然，所以要在大自然蓋一個很醜的墻壁！ 
There are large stones in the river due to erosion!
有巨石在河流裏是因爲土石流的關係！ 
This is probably the prettiest part of the trail, even though it is completely man made. A nice stop for selfies from everyone walking by.
這邊應該是整個不到最美麗的地方，雖然整個都是人造的。每個人在這邊一定要自拍。 
Further up the trail, we find a pavilion that has truly become one with nature.
在更上面，這邊的涼亭真的變成與大自然合一。 
Here is the tourist information center that is still under construction. It will probably be a cool place once its finished, so come back in few months or a year and check it out.
這邊的游客中心還在施工中，所以我才會建議幾個月后或明年再來。 
My perfectly balanced photo of the park ranger lodge.
我的完全平衡的國家森林員工木屋之照。 
Is this the Full Moon Waterfall? Nope, its a man made waterfall that you can barely see through the bushes. Keep walking.
這是滿月圓瀑布嗎？不是，是個幾乎看不到的人造瀑布，繼續走。 
If you are sick of nature halfway through the hike, you're in luck because there is a restaurant right at the halfway mark so satisfy your hunger for man-made consumables.
如果你走到一半就受不了大自然，你很幸運因爲在半途中有一個餐廳，所以你可以好好滿足你對人造的消耗品的渴望。 
You can also learn about nature from these cool flippy signs.
你也可以從這些開開關關的標識牌學到大自然的東西。 
Soon you'll be able to memorize the Latin name for almost every plant in the forest!
很快你可以把森林裏的每一個植物的拉丁名稱背起來！ 
A glimpse of the river below before the waterfall.
去瀑布之前可以看一眼河景。 
Just before the waterfall, there is a trail to the left that leads to a pavilion overlooking the waterfall.
去瀑布之前，左邊有一個步道，走到底有一個可以看到瀑布的涼亭。 
It's a beautiful view! On the day we went there seemed to be quite a lot of people, so we couldn't sit and stare for very long.
真的是很漂亮的風景！那天人很多，所以我們不能站在那邊發呆太久。 
Below the waterfall is a bridge from which you can see the lower part of the waterfall.
瀑布下面有一座橋，從此処可以看到瀑布的下方。 
So you can't see much here and there are a few branches in the way, but that's what nature is all about.
從這個位置幾乎什麽都看不到而且樹枝多，但是這就是大自然。 
Closeup of Full Moon Waterfall. There happened to be a full moon that night! It was destiny that we visited this magical waterfall.
更接近滿月圓瀑布。那天晚上真的是滿月！我們真的有緣看到這麽有魔力的瀑布。 The whole hike took less than two hours, and was really easy and flat. You could bring young children here and hike to the end with no problem. 整個爬山過程不到兩個小時，都是很平很簡單。你可以帶你的小朋友來河邊爬整個步道沒問題。 After our hike down, we bought a bag of sweet potatoes for only 45NT and headed down the mountain. The traffic was quite bad going down the mountain to Sanxia Old Street. 下山后，我們在停車場買了一袋地瓜45元，就開走。開下山到三峽老姐很塞車。 
It took a while to find parking, but we eventually found a spot under the elementary school nearby. That night we ate some sausages, ice cream, stinky tofu, and we bought some Ox Horn Bread for our relatives because apparently that is the delicacy of Sanxia.
找到停車位花了一點時間，但是我們終於找到在國小下面有空位的停車場。那天晚上我們買了香腸，魚丸，冰淇凌，臭豆腐，和三峽的特產：牛角面包送給我們親戚。 Sanxia Old Street is beautiful and one of the best Old Streets in greater Taipei. Be sure to follow our Instagram! 三峽老街很漂亮，真的是大臺北最好看的老街之一。記得發嘍我們的IG哦！
Thanks for sharing this obscure family friendly hike in Taiwan with us, and be sure to follow and like so you can see our next adventures!
謝謝讓我們分享這個家庭步道，記得按讚和發嘍所以你可以知道我們下次的冒險！ 
First off I would like to warn everyone that the road from Xinyi to Yushan is blocked off from 6:30pm-6:30am for rock fall control. We had to drive around Alishan which added 4 hours of driving to our trip.
首先我要提醒大家，由於石頭掉落，從信義到玉山的道路從早上六點半到六點半被封鎖。我們不得不在阿里山周圍另外駕車四個小時。 That being said, let me tell you about our one day hike of the tallest mountain in Taiwan and East Asia (okay, East Asia is debatable, but it sounds better). I know that I am not the first person to have climbed Jade Mountain in a day, but it seems like no one has blogged about it in English in a while. The last blog I found about hiking it in one day is from 2012, so I would like to give everyone some more recent info about the hike. I will also walk you through our experience with help with meticulous time notes compiled by my climbing partner. 說到這裡，讓我告訴你我們有一天在台灣和東亞最高的山上徒步旅行。好吧，東亞的領域是有爭議的，但聽起來不錯。 我知道我不是第一個單攻爬上玉山的人，但是沒有什麽人會用英語寫這樣的博客。我發現的最後一個單攻博客是從2012年，所以我想給大家最新信息。我也會通過我的攀登合作夥伴編寫的細緻筆記，幫助您了解我們的經驗。 Applying for permits 申請許可證: This is perhaps the most difficult part of hiking Jade Mountain. In Taiwan, mountain and park permits are required to limit fatalities and help with rescue on the mountain. Originally we planned to do a two day hike and stay at Paiyun Lodge, but we realized we didn’t have time to wait; my climbing partner is going to get a Master’s degree in America at the beginning of next year, and Jade Mountain is closed for normal hikers from January to March. Also, I wanted to take as few days off from work as possible, so we opted for the one day hike, which is easier to get approved for if you meet the qualifications. 這也許這是爬玉山最難的部分。本來我們打算做兩天的爬行，在排雲山莊過夜，但是我們意識到我們沒有時間等待。我的攀岩夥伴將在明年初在美國開始讀研究所，1月至3月期間，玉山將關閉山。另外，我想盡可能地少休息幾天，所以我們選擇了一天的徒步旅行，如果你符合條件，那麼這個旅行更容易獲得批准。 The mountain permit and park entry permit can both be applied for online. Some special requirements for the day hike though are that you must have experience climbing mountains above 3000 meters in the past 5 years. All you have to do is upload a picture of yourself on top of a mountain above 3000 meters and tell them which mountain it was. Also, you must give the park personal information such as name, age, and ID or passport number. 入山證和入園證都可以在線上申請。單攻特別要求過去5年3000米以上的爬山經驗。所有你需要做的就是傳一張你自己在3000米以上的山頂照片，告訴他們是哪一座山。此外，您必須提供個人信息，姓名，年齡，身份證或護照號碼。 As with Paiyun Lodge, the day hike also requires a lottery process, but there are a lot less people who apply for it, so getting a spot is easier. We originally planned for Dec. 19th, but later the Jade Mountain Park service called us and told us that spots had opened up on the 18th, so we switched. 跟排雲山莊一樣，白天的徒步旅行也需要抽排，但是申請的人少得多，所以得到一個位子比較容易。我們原本計劃在十九號，但後來玉山公園的服務員給我們打電話，告訴我們十八號也可，所以我們換了。 Preparation 準備: I had brought some my climbing gear from America, such as hiking boots, wool socks, hat, fleece pants, and gloves. I didn’t have any polyester long underwear, which I regretted later. My main food for the trip was 6 chocolate Costco muffins, which was too much. I only ate 2 ½. I also brought 3000 cc of water, although this may have been excessive as well because I’m sure you can fill up water at Paiyun lodge. 我帶了一些從美國來的登山裝備，如登山靴，羊毛襪，帽子，羊毛褲和手套。我沒有任何聚酯長內衣，因此後來我感到後悔。我此行的主要食物是6個巧克力Costco碼分，太多了。我只吃了2½。我也帶了3000 CC的水，雖然這也可能是過度的，因為我相信你可以在排雲山莊加滿水。 Also, because Jade Mountain had snowed the week before we left, we rented some crampons, not because we needed them but because we feared the park service would reject our climb if we didn’t have them (we ended up not needing them). 另外，因為我們離開前一個星期玉山下了雪，所以我們租了一些冰爪，不是因為我們需要它，而是因為我們擔心如果我們沒有它們（我們后來不需要它們），公園服務會拒絕我們的攀登。 The Adventure 冒險: Day 0: Dec. 17th, 2017 12:40 Met at Nangang Station and departed 南港車站集合，出發 15:05 Exited off the Mingjian Interchange 從名間交流道下來 
All photos credit to Stephanie Huffman and Candace Chen
Though the form for which the island is named is readily apparent from angles further north and south, from Toucheng pier due west, Turtle Island looks more slug-like than terrapin-shaped. A small and curving rock covered in green, the island – like all points on the horizon – grows larger and more distinctive as our boat draws closer. There are about sixty people on the Blue Whale, all wearing bright orange life jackets and hoping to catch a glimpse of the dolphins sometimes spotted frolicking around the island. The boat takes its time along the island’s southern end, a steep hill dotted with carved outcroppings. 所有的照片都歸功於Stephanie Huffman和Candace Chen 儘管從南面和南面的角度，西面的頭城碼頭，這個島嶼的名稱是顯而易見的，但是龜山島看起來比鱉魚更像是瓜牛的樣子。 隨著我們的船靠近，一個綠色的小彎曲的岩石，像島上所有的點 - 越來越大，更加鮮明。 “藍鯨”上有六十人左右，都穿著明亮的橙色救生衣，希望能看到有時在島上嬉鬧的海豚。 船沿著島的南端，一個陡峭的小山，點綴著雕刻的露頭。 “Are those lookout points?”, asks Stephanie. I point to the long, faded green barrel of a cannon just sticking out of one of the outcropping. “Among other things,” I answer. As with many of Taiwan’s outer islands, military utility took precedence over tourism for many years. Stephanie問道：“那些瞭望點？ 我指著長長的，褪色的大砲剛剛露出的一個大砲。 “還有其他用處，”我回答。 和台灣的許多外島一樣，軍事用途多年來一直以旅遊業為主。 
The smell of sulfur, a gentle rotten egg fragrance fills the air as the Blue Whale approaches the underwater thermal springs bubbling from beneath the waves by the Turtle’s head. Steam rising from the water makes it seem like the beast is smoking some great underwater hooka. As our boat rounds the Turtle’s head, the gentle green curves of the island’s Taiwan-facing side give way to the rocky cliffs of its seaward side, which in parts look almost as if the process of collapsing into the sea are ongoing.
當藍鯨靠近烏的龜頭部下方的海浪冒出的水下溫泉時，硫磺的味道瀰漫著一股溫和的臭雞蛋香味。從水中冒出的蒸汽使得它看起來像野獸正在吸取一些偉大的水下鉤子。當我們的船繞著海龜的頭時，島的台灣邊柔和的綠色曲線讓位於海邊的岩石峭壁，這部分看起來好像正在進入海洋的過程。 From this angle, Turtle Island is far more foreboding. Over the boat’s loudspeaker, the guide explains in Mandarin that the seaward side of the volcanic island takes the brunt of the area’s regular typhoons, and that some of the more rugged cliffs were formed by earthquakes. Past the cliffs the landscape becomes more gentle, and with a bit of squinting I can almost see the long, sloping neck of the turtle connecting head to shell, all covered in green. Although I’m told there are hiking trails along the spine, no hikers are currently present. 從這個角度來看，龜山島更是不祥的預兆。在船上的揚聲器上，導遊用中文解釋說，火山島的海面受到該地區正常颱風的衝擊，一些較為崎嶇的懸崖是由地震形成的。過去的懸崖，景色變得更溫柔，有一點瞇眼，我幾乎可以看到連接頭部和殼體的烏龜的長長的，傾斜的脖子，全部被綠色覆蓋。儘管我被告知有沿著脊椎的徒步旅行路線，但目前沒有人爬山。 Though technically open to tourists as a maritime ecological park since 2000, tourism to the island is fairly restricted. Our friend Candice had applied for our landing permit nearly a month in advance, but of the other travelers on our boat only one couple from Taipei had done the same. It was a far smaller group that were permitted to disembark from the Whale at the boat dock that sits just to one side of the Turtle’s tail. Only when our names are checked against those on a list by a Coast Guard official are we allowed to cross the floating bridge connecting pier to island. The Blue Whale will head further out in search of dolphins while our small group would explore the area around the Turtle’s tail. 自2000年以來，雖然在技術上作為海上生態公園，也向遊客開放，但到島上旅遊受到相當多的限制。我們的朋友Candice已經提前一個月申請了我們的登陸許可證，但是其他船上的旅客，只有一對來自台北的夫婦也這樣做了。這是一個小得多的小組，被允許從坐在鯨魚尾巴一側的船塢的鯨魚下船。只有當我們的名字與海岸警衛隊官員的名單進行核對時，才允許我們穿越連接碼頭的浮橋。”藍鯨”會進一步尋找海豚，而我們的小組將探索烏龜尾巴周圍的區域。 
Our guide, Mr. Guo, brings us first to the island’s ranger station staffed by an older gentleman and lady. The woman is cheerful, and runs a small, well-stocked gift shop. The man’s semi-military attire suggests that he’s an official of some sort. He sits behind a long desk, empty except for six round, smooth stones arranged in the shape of a turtle.
“Can you guess what these are?” The man says, adding before anyone can reply: “That’s right! Turtle Eggs!” 我們的導遊郭先生把我們帶到了一位老先生和女士的護送站。這個女人很開朗，並且經營著一個小型的，儲備豐富的禮品店。這名男子的軍裝顯示他是某種官員。他坐在一張長桌子後面，除了六個圓形的光滑的石頭，排列成一個烏龜的形狀。 “你能猜到這是什麼嗎？”男人說，在沒有人回答之前補充說：“沒錯！龜蛋！“ I pick one up. The man’s claim is patently false. I wonder if he is just testing me to see if I, as a foreigner, am aware of the dual meaning of the term Turtle Egg in Mandarin. In China the term can be used as a pejorative. “They’re stones,” I say. “Ha ha ha ha!” The man’s voice booms through the room.” Of course you’re right…but they are laid out in the shape of a turtle!” 我挑一個。這名男子的說法顯然是虛假的。我不知道他是否只是在考驗我，看看我作為一個外國人是否意識到了中文的龜卵的雙重含義。在中國這個詞可以用作貶義詞。 “他們是石頭，”我說。 “哈哈哈哈！”男人的聲音在房間裡嗡嗡作響，“當然你是對的，但是它們是以烏龜的形狀擺放的！ He has the bearing of a man who knows well the lay of the land (and had much time for rock collecting). I ask him if there are any guest houses on Turtle Island, or if perhaps camping is allowed. He laughs again, even louder this time, as if willingly spending the night on this godforsaken rock was something people would pay for. 他擁有一個熟悉土地的人（並且有很多時間可以收集岩石）。我問他在龜山島有沒有民俗，或者是否允許露營。他又笑了起來，這次更大聲了，好像自願在這個被人遺忘的岩石上度過夜晚是人們付出的代價。 “No camping, no guest house.” He tells me. “Even I don’t sleep here.” Turtle Island wasn’t always uninhabited. Settlers began arriving in 1853, and by the early 1970s the small, flat plain on the part of the island facing Taiwan boasted a village with houses, a school, a fresh water spring, and even a temple. But in 1977, the villagers – then numbering around 700 – were relocated to the town of Toucheng in Yilan. The official story, according to both Guo (and the surprisingly well-translated English language displays in what’s left of the town itself) is that after a particularly bad typhoon which cut the village off from resupply for almost two weeks, the villagers agreed that life on the island had become unsustainable and moved willingly to the mainland as part of a deal negotiated with the government. Immediately thereafter Turtle Island was declared a restricted military zone, and of course it’s equally likely that the villagers’ relocation was not entirely as enthusiastically agreed-upon as our guide or the display suggests. As it turned out, the island’s new inhabitants would come to wish that one particular Turtle Island resident had not joined the villagers’ exodus. “沒有露營，沒有民俗。”他告訴我。 “即使我不在這裡睡覺。” 龜山島並不總是無人居住。定居者於1853年開始抵達，到70年代初，面向台灣的島嶼上的一片平坦的小平原吹起了一座有房屋，有學校，淡水泉，甚至還有一座寺廟的村莊。但是在1977年，當時的村民大約700人，搬到了宜蘭頭城鎮。據郭（以及在鎮上留下的驚人翻譯的英文）顯示，官方的故事是，在一個特別糟糕的颱風將村莊補給了近兩週的時間之後，村民們同意，作為與政府談判的一部分，這個島上已經變得不可持續，願意向大陸轉移。此後，龜山島立即被宣佈為受限制的軍事區，當然，我們的指導或展示所表明的那樣，村民搬遷的可能性也不盡如人意。 事實證明，島上的新居民會希望一個特定的海龜島居民沒有加入村民的外流。 
Guo takes us to a temple, a small one by Taiwanese standards, but one that’s clearly been maintained to weather the elements. “Can you guess whose temple this is?” he asks.
“Matsu,” I answer. It seems a sensible guess. A temple built on a small island by people whose livelihoods depend on the sea would naturally offer prayers to the Goddess of the Sea. But I am simultaneously right and wrong. 郭先生將我們帶到了一個按照台灣標準來看的小寺廟，但是一個明顯被保留下來的寺廟可以抵禦這個因素。 “你能猜出這是哪個廟嗎？”他問。 “媽祖，”我回答。這似乎是一個明智的猜測。一個建在小島上的人們依靠海上生活的人自然會向海洋女神祈禱。但我同時對與錯。 Guo tells the tale of how the villagers, evicted from their island home, brought their goddess with them to their new village. Shortly thereafter, the military moved in. But in the months that followed, the new residents complained that a general malaise seemed to have crept into life on the island. “After the villagers left, the weather was rougher than normal, and the soldiers now living on the island described feeling uneasy,” Guo tells us. “It was decided that having an empty temple was upsetting the very spirit of the island itself. The military brought a statue of Guanyin from Taiwan along with some priests, who re-consecrated the temple to the Goddess of Compassion and Mercy.” According to Guo, things got better shortly after. 郭先生講述了被趕出島上的村民如何把他們的女神帶到新的村莊的故事。不久之後，軍方進來了。但是在接下來的幾個月裡，新居民抱怨說，島上似乎有一種全身不適的感覺。 “村民們離開後，天氣比平時更加粗糙，現在住在島上的士兵感到不安，”郭先生告訴我們。 “這是決定有一個空的寺廟是令人不安的島嶼本身的精神。軍方帶來台灣觀音像和一些祭司，把寺院重新奉獻給慈悲仁慈。 據郭先生介紹，事情不久後就好轉了。 Beneath the main statue in the Guanyin temple, there is also a lucky money tiger, where visitors exchange old coins for new while wishing for good fortune. Though the tiger is a simulacrum, Green Island’s other wildlife is not. The island is best-known for what lives in the waters surrounding it, from a species of crab that feeds on the sulfur coming from the underwater hot springs to a number of larger aquatic animals such as dolphins and killer whales. 在觀音廟的主雕像下面還有一隻幸運的金錢老虎，遊客在交換舊金幣的同時也希望得到好運。雖然老虎是一個模擬，但綠島的其他野生動物卻不是。這個小島以生活在周圍水域中的一種生物而聞名於世。這個小島由一種以水下溫泉產生的硫磺為原料的螃蟹，到一些大型的水生動物，如海豚和虎鯨。 
One animal endemic (some say epidemic) to turtle island are snakes, and signs warning visitors to be wary of venomous snakes greet us at various points along our journey. As we walk through the remains of the now-abandoned fishing village, Guo tells us his own version of a not-uncommon tale among the Taiwanese of Japanese snake-breeding experiments designed to create particularly venomous vipers, presumably to be used in battlefield situations. Having heard the story before, I already know where it’s going.
一個動物流行（有人說流行）龜山島是蛇，並警告遊客警惕蛇毒蛇在我們的旅程中的各個點上迎接我們。在我們走過現在被遺棄的漁村的遺跡時，郭先生向我們講述了他自己的一個日本蛇飼養實驗中的一個非常罕見的故事，這個實驗的目的是為了製造特別有毒的毒蛇，大概是在戰場上使用的。之前聽過這個故事，我已經知道他要講什麽。 “Of course, when the Japanese lost the war, they released all the snakes, which is why there are so many snakes on Turtle Island today,” Guo tells the group. Whether by nature or nurture, the snake population is clearly a concern to the people in charge of maintaining guest safety. In addition to the general Beware of Snakes signs posted throughout, part of a multilingual exhibit of text and photographs covering the history, geography and ecology of Turtle Island is specifically devoted to snakes, going into detail on their size, color patterns, aggressiveness and venom level. The display is sobering, and I find myself hoping that the ranger station has a well stocked anti-venom bar somewhere by the gift shop. “當然，當日本人輸掉戰爭時，他們釋放了所有的蛇，這就是今天龜山島上有這麼多蛇的原因。無論是自然還是培育，蛇的種群顯然都是維護客人安全的人們關心的問題。除了一般“小心蛇”標誌外，部分多語種文字和照片展示了龜山島的歷史，地理和生態，專門針對蛇，詳細介紹了它們的大小，顏色模式，侵略性和毒液水平。展示令人清醒，我發現自己希望護林員站在禮品店的某個地方有一個儲備豐富的防毒酒吧。 
We continue through the village, a lonely collection of a few crumbling stone houses and a newer barracks building built for the military, all built on the side of a brackish lake. I try to imagine children playing in the rock-paved streets and people living in the houses, now being used to store massive rolls of green mesh webbing used to gather stones to create the walls and levees that keep the high tides from inundating the island’s low-lying spots. Even with my imaginary life, the place still feels forlorn.
我們繼續穿過這個村子，孤零零地收集幾座搖搖欲墜的石頭房屋和一個為軍隊建造的更新的軍營建築，全部建在半鹹水湖的一側。我試圖想像孩子們在岩石鋪就的街道和住在房子裡的人們玩耍，現在被用來儲存大量的綠色網狀織物，用來收集石頭，以創造牆壁和堤壩，防止高潮淹沒島上的低 - 點。即使在我想像的生活中，這個地方仍然感到孤獨。 Lack of time and hiking permits does not allow our small group to hike up the Turtle’s back, but Guo has a different kind of exploration planned for us. A short hike leads us to a tunnel entrance, next to which a few abandoned military-type buildings stand, broken doors revealing electronic equipment likely state of the art in the 1970s, including a stereo system, microphone and tape deck likely used to both facilitate communication throughout the island and keep up troop morale. Another sign warns us to keep only to the main tunnel, and again to beware of snakes. 缺少時間和爬山許可證不允許我們的小組加入龜背，但郭先生有一個不同的探索計劃。短暫的徒步旅行將我們帶到了一個隧道入口處，在那裡，幾座廢棄的軍用建築物立於其中，上世紀70年代破門而出的電子設備可能是最先進的，包括立體聲系統，麥克風和磁帶機，溝通整個島嶼，並保持軍隊士氣。另一個標誌警告我們能走在主隧道，並再次提防蛇。 
“This is one of the tunnels built throughout the island for military defense purposes,” Guo tells us. The tunnel is long enough so that midway through, the only light comes from fluorescent tubes stuttering at even intervals; secondary tunnels branch off here and there, but, technically off limits to tourists in any event, unlit. Reaching the end of our tunnel, I realize that we are now inside one of the outcroppings that Stephanie had pointed out from the deck of the Whale. The 120mm naval gun makes clear the fact that observation is only one of the lookout’s purposes.
“這是為了軍事防禦而在全島建造的隧道之一，”郭先生告訴我們。隧道足夠長，以至於在中途，唯一的光線來自熒光燈管，每隔一段時間，二級隧道在這里和那里分支，但是，技術上禁止遊客在任何情況下，熄燈。走到隧道的盡頭，我意識到我們現在正在斯蒂芬妮從鯨魚甲板上指出的露頭之一。 120毫米的海軍炮明確表明，觀察只是其中一個目的。 Guo shows some of the features of the area, from the swiveling gun turret to the shape of the ceiling, designed to dissipate the gun’s deafening boom. I try to imagine being among the conscripts assigned to man the lonely outcropping day in, day out, staring out over a patch of ocean that, in the eighties and nineties at least, seemed an unlikely spot for conflict. Our guide looks at his watch and tells us we’ll need to hurry if we’re to catch the boat back. We return through the tunnel and village, past the ranger station (now closed), and to the dock where the Blue Whaleawaits to return us to Taiwan, leaving Turtle Island uninhabited once more save for a few officials, an unknown number of snakes and whatever ghosts choose to remain behind beneath the watchful eye of the Goddess of Compassion, Mercy and Kindness. 郭先生顯示了該地區的一些特點，從旋轉砲塔到天花板的形狀，旨在消除槍聲震耳欲聾的繁榮。我試圖想像成為那些被派去孤軍奮戰的義務兵的日子，他們盯著一片海洋，至少在八十年代和九十年代，似乎不太可能發生衝突。我們的導遊看著他的手錶，告訴我們，如果我們要趕回船的話，我們需要快點。我們穿過隧道和村莊，經過巡邏車站（現已關閉），到“藍鯨”等待將我們送回台灣的碼頭，離開龜山島再次無人居住，還有一些官員，數不清的蛇，幽靈選擇留在慈悲善良女神的監視之下。 Our exploration focused mainly on culture and history, but Taiwan based author Richard Saunders writes lovingly about his 2010 Turtle Island Hiking trip at Taiwan Off The Beaten Track. Interested in visiting Turtle Island? MyTaiwanTour will do its best to hook you up. (No promises though – permits need to be obtained in advance, and slots often fill up quick.) 我們的探索主要集中在文化和歷史上，但是台灣作家理查德·桑德斯（Richard Saunders）深情地寫下了他在台灣“Off The Beaten Track. ”的2010年龜島徒步旅行。 有興趣參觀龜島嗎？ MyTaiwanTour將竭盡全力來吸引你。 （沒有任何承諾 - 許可證需要提前獲得，而且插槽通常會很快填滿。） (Guanyin, Snakes & History’s Ghosts: An Afternoon on Turtle Island 觀音，蛇和歷史：龜山島的一個下午之旅) originally ran at the MyTaiwanTour Journal. All photos and text posted in the above blog were taken from https://www.mytaiwantour.com/blog/. Follow this link for more stories like this one! Visiting Taiwan? Let MyTaiwanTour help curate your experience. Find them online at https://www.mytaiwantour.com/ （Guanyin, Snakes & History’s Ghosts: An Afternoon on Turtle Island 觀音，蛇和歷史：龜山島的一個下午之旅）最初跑在MyTaiwanTour學報。 https://www.mytaiwantour.com/blog/. 點擊此鏈接獲得更多這樣的故事！ 拜訪台灣？ 讓MyTaiwanTour幫助策劃你的經驗。 通過 https://www.mytaiwantour.com/ Be sure to like, share and comment below! 記得按讚, 分享和在下面留言! Next we made our way to Ershui, (二水), to see the monkeys. We got lost, and finally asked a guy who told us that the road was just ahead. But that was all he said. Luckily it was the next road to the left. We walked up the trail a ways before we saw the monkeys, but there was an entire family of about 20 monkeys. It was fun to interact with them and we may or may not have fed them. Matt named a monkey George and tried to adopt it, but it seemed George was happy to stay right where he was.  |
Author 作家We are US Expats that have extensive experience living and working in Taiwan. In our day, we had to learn many things about Taiwan the hard way. But we have come to learn that Taiwan is one of the best places in the world for Foreigners to live. Our blog does not represent the opinions of every foreigner in Taiwan. We are just trying to help others learn more about this beautiful country. Archives 檔案
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